Zane 650 Steering Lock not working (Fixed)

Der LP

New member
Location
Germany
Hello, I'm having a problem with the steering lock on my Zane Era 650. When I try to activate the steering lock by pressing the key into the lock position, it won't turn all the way, and the steering lock won't engage. I've already removed the electronic part of the lock, but that didn't solve the problem. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can fix this, ideally without having to remove the lock, as I don't know how to do that? If that's unavoidable, it would be great if someone could explain how to remove the lock or where I can find information on how to do it.

 
Hi
Never owned a Zane but have worked on plenty of Jap 90s bikes.
It is likely similar to most of the era.
I can see where the 2 fastening bolts are located, . They are very likely to be shear bolts inserted from the underside going upward into blind holes, see pic.

They look impossible to remove but will undo with a centre punch, tapping them anticlockwise.

The Difficulty is access so I'd recommend supporting the bike under the engine, ideally with paddock stand at rear, to help keep it upright. Then remove the top yoke. You will see what you're doing after that and have better access.
 

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Hi
Never owned a Zane but have worked on plenty of Jap 90s bikes.
It is likely similar to most of the era.
I can see where the 2 fastening bolts are located, . They are very likely to be shear bolts inserted from the underside going upward into blind holes, see pic.

They look impossible to remove but will undo with a centre punch, tapping them anticlockwise.

The Difficulty is access so I'd recommend supporting the bike under the engine, ideally with paddock stand at rear, to help keep it upright. Then remove the top yoke. You will see what you're doing after that and have better access.
Rivets if I remember correctly, not screws.
Paul
 
Had a similar problem on a Japper.

Took a lot of head scratching because it would lock if I moved the bars away from the home position slightly.

Ended up being a cracked steering stop, which allowed the lock pin to misalign a poofteenth when in the lock position.

Dunno how the Zane lock or steering stop works, but try shaking the bars a tad while locking.
 
I can second Robs' removal suggestion. Shear bolts were used and not at all very tight, no locking compound was used by the factory.

piet
 
Might sound silly but have you squirted WD40 into lock? We had a Kawasaki ( same type of lock) and the lock throw bolt needs a flick to send it into the keeper- if turned too slowly the bolt sticks in a halfway position that is not in but fouls on the keeper casting. You may have to flick the bolt fully home ( off position) with a thin screwdriver to reset it. Hope that makes sense.
 
Hi
Never owned a Zane but have worked on plenty of Jap 90s bikes.
It is likely similar to most of the era.
I can see where the 2 fastening bolts are located, . They are very likely to be shear bolts inserted from the underside going upward into blind holes, see pic.

They look impossible to remove but will undo with a centre punch, tapping them anticlockwise.
Follow-up question: how do I remove the yoke, i.e., how do I detach the aluminum part in the middle?
The Difficulty is access so I'd recommend supporting the bike under the engine, ideally with paddock stand at rear, to help keep it upright. Then remove the top yoke. You will see what you're doing after that and have better access.
Follow-up question: how do I remove the yoke, i.e., how do I detach the aluminum part in the middle?
 

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Problem solved
Thanks to everyone who posted here and helped me; I was able to solve the problem thanks to you.

Solution:
I managed to remove the lock without taking off the yoke. It was a bit fiddly, but it worked as Rob suggested. After that, I didn't see anything wrong with the lock and decided to thoroughly soak it in WD-40. It was still very stiff after the first few turns, but after about 10 turns, it got easier and easier until it worked perfectly. I then reinstalled the lock, and it worked perfectly there too.


Originally it was fastened with M8 shear bolts, which I replaced with M8 screws and Loctite. They are slightly less secure, but you can hardly access them when it's assembled anyway, so I don't think that should be a problem.
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