Refitting SFC / RGS side stands

I'll add that Dad's stand mod is a doddle to fit - the spring and tab just bolt on under no tension and you put a 13mm spanner on the bolt head and a screwdriver between the spring post on the tab, and the spanner ring. Get the bolt near the take up point and put some preload on the spring by rotating the tab CCW around the bolt with the leverage of the screwdriver then nip it up. Done. (y)
 
Oh, you saw it, just a small detail.
Yes, pepared the old frame for a 120 deg triple for the 4 hrs of Spa, to be acc. the specs.
Mounted my 1000 SFC engine in rubber.

Now a 1166 cc 180 is in and rubber mounted- why not? Frame is modified, longer headstock, additional tubes to support it, longer tubes to the main pipe from the seat base, box style swing arm brackets.
Actually it is just a cafe racer.
Andre
 
That PIC is scary, from my experience.

Never trust them short Bregasnzie side stands, especially on asphalt, as the sun heats up your bike will fall over while you look at her as the stand sinks into the tar.

Always use the center stand. You can fab say a Longer Kawasaki side stand that reportedly works OK.

I always carried a 6"x6" 3/8" Plywood plate to place under the Breganzie side stand and took care how I parked the bike.

Real pain that Breganzie side stand. Yes, fast to deploy but not worth the consequences.

https://flic.kr/p/87mZPX
 
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Of coarse your Breganzie will fall over using that side stand - Breaking your End Mirror off and slamming the Bars into the tank - Thus denting it.

A shameful battle scare.

I would sooner have her with road rash with scratch's on the engine case and pipes with bent pegs having dropped her. Breganzie are without a doubt a parking PIG - Learn to use the Center Stand ;o)

I recommend if you don't use the Kawasaki side stand modification, get rid of the original side stand an only use the Center Stand ;o)

NOTE: Tire size will determine how your Breganzie parks.
 
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breganzane said:
Can't claim credit, Dad did this one, way back when the bike was only a year or two old. The spring bit is a very easy mod and works perfectly. The slightly extended tang and non-retracting nature makes it simple to deploy while seated, even for the short-arses like myself.
Some adjustment via adding weld or grinding away allows the stand to stop the appropriate amount forward of the pivot, and then some adjustment to the angle of the foot makes it sit nicely on flat ground. Length may also need to be tweaked to get the right lean angle. Make any adjustments to length down at the foot end, there is little bending on the stand down there so the weld is not stressed. Dad originally added a much larger foot area also, but I have brought that back to something approximating original.
I'll add the disclaimer that if you do this mod you should add an ignition cutout switch.

EDIT: Now I look at the photos I remember this is a newish stand that I fitted only a year or two ago. My original was very flogged out in the pivot bore and it was easier to get a new stand from WH and redo the mods copying what Dad did. You can see I've adjusted the length at the foot end, but not hard mods for anyone to make even if you have to get a local workshop to weld it.
Click to expand...
OK.. guess what I'm doing in work tomos.
 
Laverda SF said:
That PIC is scary, from my experience.

Never trust them short Bregasnzie side stands, especially on asphalt, as the sun heats up your bike will fall over while you look at her as the stand sinks into the tar.

Always use the center stand. You can fab say a Longer Kawasaki side stand that reportedly works OK.

I always carried a 6"x6" 3/8" Plywood plate to place under the Breganzie side stand and took care how I parked the bike.

Real pain that Breganzie side stand. Yes, fast to deploy but not worth the consequences.

https://flic.kr/p/87mZPX
Click to expand...
My mates Falco did the same on hot tar... must be an Italian thing .
 
breganzane said:
I'll add that Dad's stand mod is a doddle to fit - the spring and tab just bolt on under no tension and you put a 13mm spanner on the bolt head and a screwdriver between the spring post on the tab, and the spanner ring. Get the bolt near the take up point and put some preload on the spring by rotating the tab CCW around the bolt with the leverage of the screwdriver then nip it up. Done. (y)
Click to expand...
Hi Steve, is there any way you can measure the parts and make a drawing somehow? This looks like a really great modification! TÜV will hate it though, as it's not self-retracting anymore, but who cares? Makes me just consider taking the sidestand off when I go for TÜV-inspection, just like I do for the Jota, too, with the japs sidestand... ;-)
 
On my former RGS, I only had a centerstand, which split in two. welded it and it worked. So I went to the official Laverda importer here in Denmark, and ordered a sidestand from Laverda. No worries. Only took 1½ year. And it worked well, never broke or anything else. It was gold repainted black.
I found the sidestand not difficult to install and with engine in frame.

On my SFC, I had the center stand split in two again, and welded it back together, and then eventually removed it. The sidestand is there and I only ever use that, apart from a works stand if servicing rear swing arm etc. My SFC is only ever parked on the sidestand, also for long tern storage. Never had any problems what so ever. Seen enough bikers shooting off the bike with the sidestand down, making all sorts of sparks etc.
Yes, it can be a blooper, if one forgets that auto-swoop-up sidestand, but it never happened to anyone I know of.

Edit: Maybe I should add, that in my humble view, the length of the original Laverda RGS series bike sidestand, once installed, is a rather upright position, contrary to some other brands, that seem to almost lie down. The two rubbers on the sidestand on the other hand, seems to be made of self-splitting material, so I change those every say 6 years or so.

Just my two p.
Kind regards,
Jacques
 
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