What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Legs said:
Try lanolin.
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Yeh I use lanolin on a lot of things Terry, (still have a 4 litre container of it plus various sprays as I used to use it in my business).
It just doesn't stick and stay well enough in places like this. The Penetrol dries like a hard lacquer coating so I'm hoping will last a while......(we'll see)
 
Having been out last night on Audrey I noticed an oil drop 😮so I had the side off - seems the chain lube was accumulating- also replaced the shite sound deadening 😀
 

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Noticed in recent times (using a temp gun) one side of the AE was running significantly hotter than the other even though performance seemed fine. Ignition all checked previously and ok so decided to once again check the carbs. (Plugs always look fine and both the same…….)
Not much room to get to the back of the carbs due to airbox so unbolted them and hooked each of them on their respective outside studs so I could access the slides.
One adjuster position indicated one slide was possibly sitting a fair bit higher than the other (don't remember that!?) so wound in both adjusters and synced the slides evenly as best I could and ensured sufficient freeplay in both!!
The cable runs are also a bit squeezy and can hang up at times so made sure it was all sitting nicely and splitter was well lubed. Also made sure choke cables had enough freeplay on both sides, bolted back on and voila, both sides now showing similar temps after a run.
Perhaps a bit of confirmation bias but feels stronger & smoother again too and I’m even close to successfully getting a decent idle back which has gone missing a bit recently……..
 
Shajota said:
Noticed in recent times (using a temp gun) one side of the AE was running significantly hotter than the other even though performance seemed fine. Ignition all checked previously and ok so decided to once again check the carbs. (Plugs always look fine and both the same…….)
Not much room to get to the back of the carbs due to airbox so unbolted them and hooked each of them on their respective outside studs so I could access the slides.
One adjuster position indicated one slide was possibly sitting a fair bit higher than the other (don't remember that!?) so wound in both adjusters and synced the slides evenly as best I could and ensured sufficient freeplay in both!!
The cable runs are also a bit squeezy and can hang up at times so made sure it was all sitting nicely and splitter was well lubed. Also made sure choke cables had enough freeplay on both sides, bolted back on and voila, both sides now showing similar temps after a run.
Perhaps a bit of confirmation bias but feels stronger & smoother again too and I’m even close to successfully getting a decent idle back which has gone missing a bit recently……..
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Well that's one way to balance your carbs without using the proper tools.

Jim
 
I spent months trying to find out why my Pantah was gutless coming off the line.I kept redoing the carb balance using my metal plug vacum gauges, looked very close.In reality the slides were out by 5mm.Set them even with a finger up yhe throat and it was back to full power.
 
Vince said:
I spent months trying to find out why my Pantah was gutless coming off the line.I kept redoing the carb balance using my metal plug vacum gauges, looked very close.In reality the slides were out by 5mm.Set them even with a finger up yhe throat and it was back to full power.
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In these cases, I change the gauges used between the cylinders and see if they are maybe showing wrong. If the fault stays on the same cylinder, something is wrong with that cylinder (valve gaps, air leaks etc.). If it changes to another cylinder, with the gauge, it's the gauge.

Typically, the "finger check" should be enough for a smooth run as long as there are no air leakes, valve gaps are equal and the cylinders do not have different compression (and the carb sliders move equally) or one carb has a blockage or wrong setting/jetting. Have done that several times on several bikes, works absolutely OK. Mostly forgotten are the choke sliders, they should be set equally along with the air mixture screw as a starting point and the choke sliders should completely close when choke is shut.

If these basics are OK, the "finger check" of the sliders should make the bike run really steadily already.

When I was asked by a Laverda-fellow to help him on his freshly assembled Jota which cut out after 15 - 20 seconds of running always in idle, I asked him if he set all carbs equally and if he made sure the choke sliders are equally adjusted, too. He confirmed that. I checked all the settings and found Choke sliders to be on 3 different levels and idle screws, too. put all on the same setting, the bike ran and ran and ran until we stoped it by turning the key. ;)

It's all about basics really...
 
Vince said:
I spent months trying to find out why my Pantah was gutless coming off the line.I kept redoing the carb balance using my metal plug vacum gauges, looked very close.In reality the slides were out by 5mm.Set them even with a finger up yhe throat and it was back to full power.
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No off takes for guages on these Vince, so keeping it simple works...........................
 
Its funny to think but tuning by ear really does do well, I put all my eggs in the new metal plug type vaccum gauges after my merquty ones developed bubles.And all it needed was a gpod FINGERING
 
Started the 3c, its been a month of tight lockdown with plenty more to come. So as I dont want blocked carbs or a dead battery it was time to do those tasks
 
A technique that worked on two-stroke twins (Yamaha RD, RZ) was to wind out the idle adjust screws so that the slides bottomed out on the inside of the carburettor, then operate the throttle open and closed and listen for the clicks as the slides bottomed out. Adjust the cables for simultaneous clicks. Then reset the idle adjusters. Hopefully I haven't forgotten any significant details there.

cheers,

bazzee
 
Been away so this update is 2 weeks old now but some muppet drove into the back of me at a junction :-( No physical harm apart from a stiff back the next day and probably some burst blood vessels from being so angry but the bike has some cosmetic damage to number plate, mudguard and side panels (they shifted forwards far enough to hit the carbs and chip. There also seems to be an electrical issue, probably a pinched wire. Anyway, it's gone off to https://www.4th-dimension.co.uk/ who specialise in bike insurance repair, coincidentally I know the MD. They will fully assess it, including a frame jig but I'm sure it will all come back as good as new but infuriating to have the hassle because a driver wasn't paying attention: how he could miss a bright red, noisy bike in front of him is beyond me!
 
rbpjenkins said:
Been away so this update is 2 weeks old now but some muppet drove into the back of me at a junction :-( No physical harm apart from a stiff back the next day and probably some burst blood vessels from being so angry but the bike has some cosmetic damage to number plate, mudguard and side panels (they shifted forwards far enough to hit the carbs and chip. There also seems to be an electrical issue, probably a pinched wire. Anyway, it's gone off to https://www.4th-dimension.co.uk/ who specialise in bike insurance repair, coincidentally I know the MD. They will fully assess it, including a frame jig but I'm sure it will all come back as good as new but infuriating to have the hassle because a driver wasn't paying attention: how he could miss a bright red, noisy bike in front of him is beyond me!
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What a Bugger!........Sorry to hear that but at least you are okay and the bike can be fixed up, friend of mine just got his Z1 back from them after being reversed into by a VW transporter van!...........guy evidently went through some traffic lights by several hundred yards then decided to come back reversing up the road where my mate was sitting waiting at the lights....unbelievable.........anyway bikes back now and he seems very happy with the work.
 
rbpjenkins said:
Been away so this update is 2 weeks old now but some muppet drove into the back of me at a junction :-( No physical harm apart from a stiff back the next day and probably some burst blood vessels from being so angry but the bike has some cosmetic damage to number plate, mudguard and side panels (they shifted forwards far enough to hit the carbs and chip. There also seems to be an electrical issue, probably a pinched wire. Anyway, it's gone off to https://www.4th-dimension.co.uk/ who specialise in bike insurance repair, coincidentally I know the MD. They will fully assess it, including a frame jig but I'm sure it will all come back as good as new but infuriating to have the hassle because a driver wasn't paying attention: how he could miss a bright red, noisy bike in front of him is beyond me!
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That’s a bugger - I believe Tony C who also has a Liberator May be coming to our meeting at Willersley on Sunday - come on or in anything and say hello
 
Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond said:
That’s a bugger - I believe Tony C who also has a Liberator May be coming to our meeting at Willersley on Sunday - come on or in anything and say hello
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damn, I really want to come to one of those on the Liberator. I've got a loaner from the repair place, nice but generic, I have just bought a Bullett Spirit 125 for my partner to learn on, quite a cool little bike :-) 1627478791268.png
 
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