Refill Oil Capacity 180° Triple

[motoddrob]

Mine is an 80 1200. 3l to fill after a reassembly, 2.5l for an oil change. When I drain my oil I remove the selector cover as well as the drain plug and also prop the l/h side stand with a bit of wood. Can't see how one can drain the motor entirely. Easy for 1/2 litre to get lost in all the gallerys/oil cooler and nooks and crannies. Can say the same for the 750 as well. Don't think there are any differences between the 1000 and 1200 cases.
Bet they all came out of the same mold for the years of manufacture.

 

[Laverda SF]

DO NOT screw in the Dip Stick on a Breganzie for reading crankcase oil level - Just set it in, pull it and read the stick !

 

[rowdypat]

I seem to recall that the twins and triples have slightly different length dipsticks... is that right? If so, you want to make sure you haven't swapped them over

 

[motoddrob]

Hi Pat, if your referring to me I can assure you the correct dipsticks are in the correct holes

 

[rowdypat]

Not you specifically Rob, but glad you're still having a dip

 

[martymoose]

Pulling the stuck clutch apart on 4071, here is a shot of the hole in the case that lets the oil in, and why 1/2 litre stays in there

 

[martymoose]

Loving having a hoist at home

 

[Paul Marx]

I seem to recall that the twins and triples have slightly different length dipsticks... is that right? If so, you want to make sure you haven't swapped them over

Triples, 750s and 500s all have different length dipsticks I think.
Beware.

Paul

 

[Gerald]

Paul,
you are correct! different length dipsticks on 750 and Triples.

 

[Ernesto]

Just the metal part:
205mm on 750s
220mm on Triples

 

[michipons]

my left hand header needs moving to get the strainer cleanly out - so in theory needs a new exhaust sealing ring and copper nuts each time

I read the whole thread to see a reaction to that message! is it really necessary to change the copper sealing ring everytime?? If that is the case… where do you find them without paying ridiculous sums on ebay?
Miguel

 

[hooksey]

I read the whole thread to see a reaction to that message! is it really necessary to change the copper sealing ring everytime?? If that is the case… where do you find them without paying ridiculous sums on ebay?
Miguel

No, not at all necessary

 

[piranha-bro2]

I reckon I've used new copper rings twice in 300,000+ km. Once they're crushed they are reusable gaskets.

 

[motoddrob]

I only change them if they're leaking and I don't ever remember changing the nuts except a couple of times they have fallen off.
Back fire usually tells me they're either loose or leaking

 

[Andy]

Annealing is easy enough

 

[Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond]

They are crushable so once crushed they won’t seal as well second time around - cheap enough from Phil Todd - if I don’t replace them one of the exhausts will show a valve guide oil leakage - I should say this is just my opinion

 

[helicopterjim]

They are crushable so once crushed they won’t seal as well second time around - cheap enough from Phil Todd - if I don’t replace them one of the exhausts will show a valve guide oil leakage - I should say this is just my opinion

........ or just anneal them with a small propane torch. Easy to do and they are crushable again.

Jim

 

[Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond]

New sealing rings - old copper and new ones from Phil - in the background new intake tubing for the Formula

 

[piranha-bro2]

And some Derwent Allen keys? (for those who might not know, Derwents were THE colour pencils to have as kids - some rich kids would get a box of 72 for their birthdays!! The average kid had 12. )

 

[Dellortoman]

........ or just anneal them with a small propane torch. Easy to do and they are crushable again.

Only up to a point. Annealing doesn't un-crush them.