Triple cam cover removal

JO55

JO55

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Location
Cornwall
Evening all.

Having decided to check my valve clearances, I set about removing the cam cover from my Jota. "Looks a piece of cake" I thought.

However, jiggle it as I will, it doesn't want to come off. I searched on here and found an old thread from 14 years ago with a similar issue. It says, turn the crank over a little either way and the cover will release from the tacho drive. What isn't clear (for me anyway!) is - does the tacho drive pull through cover (I've removed the circlip to allow this), or should I leave the circlip in place and remove the cover, complete with the drive attached to it? Is there anything else preventing releasing?

The carbs are still fitted and it also appears the part of the cover is very close to the carb linking bracket. I'm hoping once lifted, it will come clear of the bracket and come off.

Any help gratefully received, thanks.
 
JO55 said:
Evening all.

Having decided to check my valve clearances, I set about removing the cam cover from my Jota. "Looks a piece of cake" I thought.

However, jiggle it as I will, it doesn't want to come off. I searched on here and found an old thread from 14 years ago with a similar issue. It says, turn the crank over a little either way and the cover will release from the tacho drive. What isn't clear (for me anyway!) is - does the tacho drive pull through cover (I've removed the circlip to allow this), or should I leave the circlip in place and remove the cover, complete with the drive attached to it? Is there anything else preventing releasing?

The carbs are still fitted and it also appears the part of the cover is very close to the carb linking bracket. I'm hoping once lifted, it will come clear of the bracket and come off.

Any help gratefully received, thanks.
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Sometimes depends on location of tongue when your jiggling 😜
Can also be a case of cam pillars collapsing and fouling the inside of the cover........ don’t ask!!😩
 
I had the same problem a few days ago, seems stuck at the tacho drive, struggled to find the reason. Fixed it….. leave the tacho drive and circlip in place, put a screw driver in the slot where cable blade goes and as you lift the cover turn the screw driver. What you are doing is winding the tacho drive gear off the cam gear. Did mine with carbs off so not sure about clearance. Richard
 
Thanks chaps. From your tips, I think my issue is that I need to re-attach the Tacho drive shaft, then get it to unwind (helical gear I guess) from the cam.
More jiggling required!
 
Yep, the drive stays in one piece, just remove the cable. Note the spade adapter thingy which sometimes stays on the cable but falls off later.

I get the cover free up to where the tach drive is jamming it and while gently pulling up, give the start button a tiny stab (just the briefest press) and that usually frees the cover. Very easy.
 
Thanks for the tips. I used your hit the starter suggestion. A bit heart in mouth when I did it, but worked a treat! Thanks.
 
Having checked, I have exh side 1/.009 2/ .010 3/.008. inlet 1/.006 2/.005 3/.005 all in old money. A few that are looking a tad tight. Can anyone point me in the direction of the best place to get shims in the UK? Also, if there are any gems of tips on changing them, I'd appreciate it. Cheers.
 
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JO55 said:
Having checked, I have exh side 1/.009 2/ .010 3/.008. inlet 1/.006 2/.005 3/.005 all in old money. A few that are looking a tad tight. Can anyone point me in the direction of the best place to get shims in the UK? Also, if there are any gems of tips on changing them, I'd appreciate it. Cheers.
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Hi Jo, not being funny but they all look a little tight to me?
Have you been on the Laverdamania site?.............here are a couple of links that will help you.


Always helps to have a safety rag in place when removing the cam chain split link....👍

Sure someone will be along with info regarding buying shims, I've always brought mine from Andy at Laverda paradies, maybe not the cheapest but they do fit.
 
Schurminater said:
Hi Jo, not being funny but they all look a little tight to me?
Have you been on the Laverdamania site?.............here are a couple of links that will help you.


Always helps to have a safety rag in place when removing the cam chain split link....👍

Sure someone will be along with info regarding buying shims, I've always brought mine from Andy at Laverda paradies, maybe not the cheapest but they do fit.
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Hi Steve,
the 1st link you've posted above is also avaible in English:

Check and set the valve clearance- Laverda 1000 and 1200

Cheers,
Jo
 
Schurminater said:
Hi Jo, not being funny but they all look a little tight to me?
Have you been on the Laverdamania site?.............here are a couple of links that will help you.


Always helps to have a safety rag in place when removing the cam chain split link....👍

Sure someone will be along with info regarding buying shims, I've always brought mine from Andy at Laverda paradies, maybe not the cheapest but they do fit.
Click to expand...
Thanks Steve.

Yep, a couple of the exhaust clearances are OK (10 thou being .25mm as per the book), but the inlets are a tad tight. She's not going anywhere over the winter months so I might as well take the time to get her sorted.

I'm also planning on fitting an Ignitec ignition and a charging system from Keith Nairn. Hopefully sorted for when the weather gets better (amongst the other projects I have running!).

Thanks for the tips and links, I'll take a look.(y)
 
Having finally got my backside in gear and fitted the required shims and rechecked the clearances, I'm ready to set the cams up and refit the chain. Now, following the green book , it says to align the marks on the flywheel with the casing, and to turn the cams until the marks face directly up and are parallel, then connect the chain. My question is, how is this done? The inlet cam sprocket is so close to the casing that it doesn't allow it to be turned as it won't clear the chain. Also when turning the crank, does the chain drop free of the crank sprocket, allowing the crank to be turned while the chain is held still by the two ends?
I'm struggling to get past the fact that it appears I'll have to connect the chain where I can, whilst guessing where all the marks will be in relation to one another once the crank marks are aligned. Any tips for timing up the cams would be gratefully received. Thanks!
 
It doesn't matter where you connect the chain, only crank and cam relationship is important.
You must not let the chain come off the crank sprocket.
Paul
 
JO55 said:
The inlet cam sprocket is so close to the casing that it doesn't allow it to be turned as it won't clear the chain.
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Have you removed the cam chain tensioner blade? It is then possible to keep the chain clear of the sprocket to align the timing marks.

Assuming the cam chain pedestal hasn't been removed from the bottom of the crankcase then the cam chain will stay engaged with the crank sprocket.

So with the cam chain clear of the cam sprocket teeth you can set the crank to TDC. The ends of the chain should be approximately equal length at this point. I'm assuming you split the cam chain with the split link midway between the cam sprockets. If so, you will be replacing it in exactly the same position.

I use a 11mm spanner on one of the cam sprocket bolts to help turn it against valve spring pressure and align the vertical mark....spanner positioned to preferably turn the bolt clockwise rather than anti for obvious reasons. Assuming you have replaced the cam with the timing mark on the sprocket somewhere near top vertical you shouldn't have valves hitting pistons as you turn the cam to fully align the mark.

Don't remove the lengths of wire from the cam chain ends until you have replaced the split link.
 
JO55 said:
Having finally got my backside in gear and fitted the required shims and rechecked the clearances, I'm ready to set the cams up and refit the chain.
Click to expand...
I'm wondering how you checked the clearances after fitting new shims if you didn't have the cams set up properly. Your post seems to imply that you bolted them down without timing them or fitting the chain. That would mean you'd have to turn each of the cams independently to measure the clearances. A risky business.

I'm also beginning to wonder whether you set the engine at TDC and cams on their timing marks before starting the whole procedure. If you simply turned the engine until the joining link was accessible, without regard to the timing marks, then you've made it more difficult for yourself.
 
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Paul Marx said:
It doesn't matter where you connect the chain, only crank and cam relationship is important.
You must not let the chain come off the crank sprocket.
Paul
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Thanks Paul. Yes, I'm perhaps projecting a scenario that wouldn't happen. ie. I line everything up, and the chain ends are inaccessible.
 
Dellortoman said:
I'm wondering how you checked the clearances after fitting new shims if you didn't have the cams set up properly. Your post seems to imply that you bolted them down without timing them or fitting the chain. That would mean you'd have to turn each of the cams independently to measure the clearances. A risky business.

I'm also beginning to wonder whether you set the engine at TDC and cams on their timing marks before starting the whole procedure. If you simply turned the engine until the joining link was accessible, without regard to the timing marks, then you've made it more difficult for yourself.
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Thanks. Yes, only a preliminary check prior to assembly. I guess it's not like I can adjust anything once it's together anyway, and just have to trust my calculations on shim choice - which, lets face it, most of us could have done in primary school (although that was a fair time ago now!).

Being an engineer by trade, for once I chose to follow the instructions in the manual (green book), and DID actually turn it until the split link was in the middle of the sprockets. I did, however make my own paint marks on the sprockets just in case. I think my mistake is in not removing the tensioner blade, hence making room to move the cam individually from the chain. Sounds like I have made life harder for myself in that respect at least. Well, I've learnt for next time ...
 
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