wanted - moto giro bike

Bike is very nice and well done! When fuel goes through the roof these bikes are going to be in demand Paul. As for flooring I use old carpet. Soaks up oil, things don't bounce as far and doIMG_3668.JPGn't get get damaged when dropped.
 
long story short...... got the bike running in July, developed a major oil leak from the vertically split engine cases. After lots of whining and procarastination I pulled the motor, split the cases, Keen Serted several partially strippd case bolts, repalced a wonky transmission shaft bearing, re assembled the engine and put it back in - sucker would not start.....:eek::cry: Lots more whining and procrastination, cheked everything several times, thinking it must be carb or the VAPE PowerDynamo ignition, went through every VAPE troubleshooting check on a long list, checked ignition timing with a strobe ( tought to do on a kick start bike, takes two people), then walked away from the bike for a week (actually more......)

Feeble mental facultles, thought I had checked everything, then brain wave to check compression - tested way low, 50 psi. Thought, no it can't be cam timing, I had dialed it in agonizingly accuratley with degree wheel and dial indicator the first time. Printed up another one of Cam's degree wheels, marked it up for the Gilera again, glued it to a CD Rom, pulled the head again to be absolutely sure of TDC, put he CD Rom degree wheel on the VAPE 12 volt alternator to find cam timing way out.......

Pulled the motor, again, split the cases again, stuck a paper print out of the degree wheel to the crank weight with magnets, cam timing was so far out intake lobe center was at TDC. Cam is gear driven, cam timing was out 4 full gear teeth. Last disassembly to fix the engine case oil leak the cam must have lifted up out of place when I lifted off the case half, then dropped back into place 4 teeth out... bloody hell.

re asembled the motor for the third time, stuck it back in the bike for the third time (sounds so simple and quick typed out like that), bike fired first kick, idles beautifully - now need to dial in the Mikuni VM carb jetting, fettle the bike generally, the Moto Giro is less than 2 weeks away.

on a positive note, I now deeply understand basic cam timing, which was not at all the case when I started this project;)

also, after having dropped my Kawasaki H2 SX SE in May off my modified utility trailer I had been using as a motorycle trailer since 2002, doing $3,000 in damage to the H2, and worse, badly injuring myself and requiring 2 and a half months of physiotherapy, I have sold my modified utility trailer, and replaced it with one of these motorycle specific trailers https://www.marlonproducts.com/products/trailers/motorcycle?product=MCTD+Trailer&productID=425-0004 the loading deck is much lower
 
I know how you feel, I have had cam timing issues myself. On occasion when lots of engine work was done on picking up the bike and bearly making the 20ks home on a gutless misfiring horror, or heading out on a 4-day ride and MELTING the mostly plastic carb slides in the CV Mikuni 100ks later. All on my 3C. And then having the Discussion as to the cause, it being a mystery to the engine builder. With hindsight WHY else would combustion gasses be arriving at the carb throat and melting slides? It was obviously cam timing. Spent some time, small pun, kick-starting and badly hurting myself on a big 2 stroke with a broken woodruff key that lost spark timing. BLOODY OLD BIKES. It's so relieving when you find the fuck up and they finally go well.
 
That looks like a decent motorcycle trailer Paul. It looks pretty solid. I like the way it folds up to minimise it's footprint for storage when not in use.
I wouldn't be surprised if you end up fitting more tie-down points though.
 
Dellortoman said:
That looks like a decent motorcycle trailer Paul. It looks pretty solid. I like the way it folds up to minimise it's footprint for storage when not in use.
I wouldn't be surprised if you end up fitting more tie-down points though.
Click to expand...
Hi Cam

I am already adding 3D holographic reflective tape, a bunch of LED running lights, and figuring out what to do about tie downs. A real lack of tie down points for a dedicated motorycle trailer. Didn't come with a spare tire either so I have that on order, and likely going to add some more aluminum sheet plate to the front upright frame to deflect rocks etc, I have a good quantity of aluminum sheet plate left over from when I upgraded my former utility trailer.

I really like the way the trailer folds up and stands on end, fits in the garage out of the nasty Calgary winters, and doesn't take up much space. My former converted utility trailer took up a complete parking space in my driveway, so win/win so far, we'll see, I had to change out my hitch tongue on the Range Rover to get the proper towing height for the new trailer and so far have only towed the trailer empty from the dealership to home, but it seemed fine back there. I am also thinking I can use the Range Rovers air suspension controls when unloading or loading bikes on or off the trailer to raise the Rover which will drop the back of the trailer even lower....

For the cam timing, your degree wheel pdf is incredibly handy, thanks so much for making it available. Tough learning curve for me but I now do truly understand the basics of cam timing from scratch now, no factory timing marks needed for me anymore (y) :cool: but bloody hell what a pain in the ass learning curve with a vertically split engine with gear driven cam in the lower case, motor in and out three times.

Thanks again

Paul LeClair
 
Sidelining a bit.
After having punctured on the rear of the 3C this Sunday and messed up my back getting it on and off the trailer, I've decided to invest in this which goes right down to the floor for loading and unloading. I'd been thinking about it for when I get old, but now's the time.

YO Remorques

www.yoremorques.fr www.yoremorques.fr

Paul
 
Congratulations on getting to the top of the learning curve Paul.Good move doing a compression check. I always cover the plug hole with my finger and feel for good compression before tdc, and especially for vacuum after it (whip off finger for that pop) turning the engine by hand.
Just look away when the "how can I modify my cam timing for more torque or top end" learning curve pops up.
I hope you get that carb sorted easily and can just get out on that Giro and enjoy it.
 
Ha ha! I knew the trailer wouldn't escape the LeClair modification process. :)

Looks like there's plenty of scope to weld tie-down loops to the steel frame around the perimeter of the trailer. You could also fit bolt-on tie down points to the deck plating. You can get various types of flush-fitting tie down points so as not to create trip hazards (I once tripped over while wheeling a bike onto a trailer, resulting in damage to me and the bike). Some are better than others. Avoid cheapo non-rated ones. Decent ones are ruggedly built and come with a load rating. If you fit them into the aluminium deck, you may need to add some reinforcing structure underneath.

You can also get tracks that you can slide tie-downs into and position where you want for different bikes.
 
Dellortoman said:
Ha ha! I knew the trailer wouldn't escape the LeClair modification process. :)

Looks like there's plenty of scope to weld tie-down loops to the steel frame around the perimeter of the trailer. You could also fit bolt-on tie down points to the deck plating. You can get various types of flush-fitting tie down points so as not to create trip hazards (I once tripped over while wheeling a bike onto a trailer, resulting in damage to me and the bike). Some are better than others. Avoid cheapo non-rated ones. Decent ones are ruggedly built and come with a load rating. If you fit them into the aluminium deck, you may need to add some reinforcing structure underneath.

You can also get tracks that you can slide tie-downs into and position where you want for different bikes.
Click to expand...
so far have added a total of 12 LED LED marker lights which are now installed but not yet wired, and 14 lineal feet of 3D holographic reflective silver/red reflective tape. Should be able to see the trailer from space;)

the tie down tracks are known around here as "E tracks", they come in vertical and horizontal configurations, various lengths, and have a big variety of clip in options. Going shopping for those later in the week, need to find the galvanized/rust proofed versions, and will install with stainless steel fasteners. https://ericksonmfg.com/product-category/e-track/e-track-e-track/ on the trailer I just sold, I had quite a few heavy tie down rings, all through bolted through the trailer frame.

the new trailer did not come with brakes, easy enough to add electric brake hubs and the additional wiring, my Range Rover is already set up for both 4 pin and 7 pin (with brake controller) connectors but am going to try towing the trailer fully loaded first to see if it needs add on electric brakes or not.

this upcoming weekend here in Canada is a "Labour Day" long weekend, Mondayh is a holiday, going to "fettle" the Gilera and try and get the carb jetting dialed in, adjust anything else as may need adjusting.
 
Paul Marx said:
Sidelining a bit.
After having punctured on the rear of the 3C this Sunday and messed up my back getting it on and off the trailer, I've decided to invest in this which goes right down to the floor for loading and unloading. I'd been thinking about it for when I get old, but now's the time.

YO Remorques

www.yoremorques.fr www.yoremorques.fr

Paul
Click to expand...
Hi Paul, the drop trailer looks really great. Looked but couldn't find anything like that locally available to me, was going to have to buy in the USA and import, so I went with a Canadian made product stocked local to me. Aging sucks but always way to adapt and perservere......(y)
 
The Q'Straint tie-down system might be worth a look too. It uses an aluminium track that might be better resistant to corrosion than galvanised steel track.

My bike trailer is home made and all steel. So all the die-down points are just steel loops welded on. If I need one in a new spot, out comes the welder. :)
 
Paul LeClair said:
Hi Paul, the drop trailer looks really great. Looked but couldn't find anything like that locally available to me, was going to have to buy in the USA and import, so I went with a Canadian made product stocked local to me. Aging sucks but always way to adapt and perservere......(y)
Click to expand...
Hi Paul,
The principle is great. The makers have understood that motorcyclists mostly have grey hair. There are also electric varieties but a hand winch is enough for me.
I've had two punctures this year and have had to call upon a son each time to load and unload the bike. Luckily, he was free either time. My wife and I are more and more fearful of loading those big lumps on a trailer.
My Citroën car with hydraulic suspension was great, I'd raise the car to the highest position which would lower the back of the trailer. Unfortunately, I had to get rid of the car. In our world, a 20 year old car is too much of a hassle to maintain if you want to use it regularly. No more parts. Laverda parts are easier to come by.

Paul
 
I have a remote-controlled electric winch for loading bikes into my van. It's a 4WD van so the floor pan is quite high above ground level. Pushing a bike up a ramp is fraught with difficulties. The winch makes it a simple job for one person to load/unload a bike. One hand to operate the winch control and the other hand to steady the bike as it goes up the ramp.
 
Hi Cam

I went and looked up the Q Straint you mentioned. https://www.qstraint.com/en-au/securement-101/ Prices are eye watering for the self retractors, but very cool.

Paul Marx

my Range Rover Sport Supercharged raises and lowers like your former Citroen did. I can substantially raise the Rover to lower the back of the loading deck of the trailer.

All

I just finished adding and wiring 10 bright LED running lights, red on the rear, orange on the sides, white on the front. Trailer lights up like a disco ball. Also added another several feet of the 3 D highly reflective red and silver safety tape. Considering adding an electric winch, which I already have new in a box, but have to figure out where and how to mount it.. Have also added high grit traction safety tape to the loading ramp, really abrasive, shouldn't be slipping on that.

Now I can turn my attention back to fettling the Gilera, going to try and mostly dial in the carb jetting over the weekend, bed in the brakes, etc... I am hoping 7 screaming horsepower will haul my bulk up the twisty 10 km mountain road that is the Sunday race course, I suspect I will not likely need any brakes on the way up..........;)
 
Paul LeClair said:
Hi Cam

I went and looked up the Q Straint you mentioned. https://www.qstraint.com/en-au/securement-101/ Prices are eye watering for the self retractors, but very cool.
Click to expand...

I came across them when I used to manage a vehicle fleet for a company that transported people with disabilities. They mostly used Fiat Ducato buses because they have a low floor pan for easy access and loading (they're front wheel drive, so there's no drive shaft or diff under the rear). They typically had a couple of seats in the back for ambulant passengers but were mostly fitted out with Q'Straint tracks in the rear floor for tying down wheelchairs.

The vehicles would get replaced every 2 or 3 years, and I sold one to a mate to use as a race bike transporter. I managed to scrounge a bunch of Q'Straint self-retracting tie downs for him and he uses them for use with his bikes. Just wheel the bike in, hook up the Q'Straints and push down on the handlebars to compress the suspension. The Q'Straints automatically ratchet in so they're tight when you release the suspension. Super quick tying down procedure. It only takes a few seconds to load and secure a bike. He's also got room for sleeping and cooking facilities. When it's not being used for bikes, he uses it for his work, so it's a tax-deductible business expense.
 
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