What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Having stripped a couple of sump threads while using proper torque, I now use Clem’s method of using a freshly annealed washer, barely more than finger tight, with lockwire. And I don’t worry about the slight weep that sometimes occurs.
That is exactly what I have set about doing with the longer threaded plug.
Because I had read of Clem's method.
The longer thread, the M14 Dowty washers and the drilling for wiring didn't happen, the threads in the cases are to distorted to allow the fitting of the long plug.
What I've ended up doing is fitting the shorter sump plug and magnet, with a re annealed the copper washer.
The best laid plans of mice and men.:unsure:
 
Let me put it to our forums lucky bastard Metallurgist: AndyW how does this magnetism by heat work?
I've never heard of it either....
If you liquify the metal (quite a lot of heat required) and cool it very slowly (ie months or more) then ferrous metallic particles may align themselves with nearby magnetic fields. Not sure if anyone's actually tried it (why bother) so is still largely theoretical...
 
I didnt know that Shaun Connerry was the president

there must be fresh air in that handlbar grip, unless someone has extended the bar itself, normally the clutch lever clamp is pretty much up tight to the switches and the knuckle, very little plain bar in sight.
CLEM
Odd, the grip is fully on and the lever is positioned as close the switches as will allow the full lever travel. The doubt the lever is original and the bars are from a Jota so might be longer than normal? It did change hands recenly but only moved a few kms up the road.
 
Odd, the grip is fully on and the lever is positioned as close the switches as will allow the full lever travel. The doubt the lever is original and the bars are from a Jota so might be longer than normal? It did change hands recenly but only moved a few kms up the road.
A comparator for you, Spyder. Standard OEM bars.

Handlebars.jpg
 
The longer thread for a sump plug is a good idea, it wasnt mine, IIRC it was Keith Prentice that "invented" that one, but if you want some magnetic atraction (I have loads of that to spare) then just add a few loose magnets (old speakers or computer guts etc) inside the mesh filter in the sump plate. This has the added advantage of coming out of the engine as a unit and should be cleaned every 4 or 5 oil changes (180's) or every 3 or 4 (120's)

CLEM
 
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Currently on the Steam Racket ferry heading towards blighty. With the weird weather at the moment it‘s almost like summer, not mid November!
I have my Chott in the back of the van, which might not be coming home with me. However, I may well have a replacement for the Atlas, that’s on its way to Oz, by the time I head home.
 
Did 250 km through France and Belgium on the S yesterday.
Will be changing the bronze bush in the clutch drum on the SF2 this afternoon. These bushes wear with a certain regularity.
Funnily, the symptom is a clutch that will slip when cold, but not when it's warmed up.

Paul
 
Did 250 km through France and Belgium on the S yesterday.
Will be changing the bronze bush in the clutch drum on the SF2 this afternoon. These bushes wear with a certain regularity.
Funnily, the symptom is a clutch that will slip when cold, but not when it's warmed up.

Paul
Had a great sprint to Broadford and back on my Aussie drummer.
A great day and made even more special by meeting Lee (Tippie)
 

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Likewise Maurice, new friends and friends not seen for decades. Like many others here, to gather and meet the people and see the bikes we only have known through the forum is just fantastic. And Red with the Scorches....absolutely stunning in every way.
 
Break the work down into component sections, one small bite at a time keeps encouraging forward progress. The best start is a painted and braced frame, and then it's easy. Before you know it your riding on club rides. Don't end up like me, 30 years later regretting the finish on my frame and too lazy to fix it.
 
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