Atlas Questions

Nothing goes to plan, eh Vince. Not even the simplest job.

Sorry to hear that the right-hand grip heater is buggered. I see online that you can buy the grips separately, so you don't have to buy the whole kit again.

Perhaps next time, remove the throttle twistgrip tube and use a press or draw-bolt to get the heated grip on. It's a bit gentler than whacking it with a lump hammer. But if you're having so much trouble getting the right-hand grip on, maybe your throttle twistgrip tube is a bit oversize. According to the installation blurb on YouTube, the Oxford grips are designed for a 1" throttle tube. If yours is fatter than 1", try rubbing it down with sandpaper. They actually suggest doing that with some bikes, as well as removing any lip on the end of the throttle tube.

If the glue is giving you trouble, maybe you could get the grip on first then glue it once it's in position. It should only need a few spots of glue to hold it. Once it's on, poke something thin (long skinny screwdriver blade?) down in between the heated grip and the throttle tube to make a small gap. Dribble some superglue down the gap and yank out your screwdriver before it has time to get stuck. Do that in a few spots and it should be pretty well stuck. Obviously you'll need to do that from the outer end because the cable pully will block access to the inner end.

Just tossing around some ideas around. They might be rubbish.
 
Good thoughts Cam.

I recently bought a two pack superglue product for plastics.

Sellys Plas Stick I think it was.
One tube was a primer, used first
The second the superglue itself

What was great about it was that it said it took 30 seconds to bond. I fucked around for over a minute ⏲️ and it was still wet.

Plenty of time to belt the grip with a lump hammer a few times.

Once dry, was stuck like shit 💩 to a blanket, my requirement was to bond polypropylene, hard to get anything to bond that type of plastic (probably what the inside of the grips are made from) because of its molecular structure 👨‍🔬

Sanding down as you suggested would also assist bonding tenfold 👍
 
Good tips, that glue sounds like a great help, Chris. Interference fits are all well and good in either a fully equipped workshop or has been repeated before successfully. I have fitted there 2 or 3 times but this was a full-blown nightmare. There is nothing worse on a job site when you have there do or die jobs. They either fit and work or fail and you then smash them to bits to get it out. Been there and that's why I was dreading doing it. Live and learn, BTW Cam the heated grips are that solid there is zero chance of squeezing anything down the grip and getting it out afterwards. I got the Hex heads today for the phone mount and used them BUT had to do it twice as it was that tight I used the ring spanner end and couldn't get it out after tightening it, had to undo it and use the open ender to get the spanner out. Thank Fuck that's done. So after wiring the Heated grips and the Phone Charger power plug, they have an inline fuse and apparently can be directly connected to the battery and don't flatten it, I will see in a couple of days if they flatten the battery just sitting in the shed not running obviously and swapping out the leaking fuel tap, I kicked it in the guts to see if it would start and run before fitting the seat and side covers plus pannier mounts and crash bar tomorrow. It fired immediately idles very well and took throttle like a champ. Not saying another word about IT.
 
Vince said:
they have an inline fuse and apparently can be directly connected to the battery and don't flatten it, I will see in a couple of days if they flatten the battery just sitting in the shed not running
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Impossible to wire heated grips straight to the battery and not have it go flat! Once connected to + and earth they'll be ON and heating your shed! Or have I misunderstood?
 
are you talking about the outer end Paul, because I learned the hard way, that the outer end of the throttle twist tube if contacted on the ground even lightly, will push the tube "up" into the body and damage the flange at the cable end, sometimes doesnt show for a long time (ask me) as the flange may still be 20% atatched but when it breaks twas most inconveniant, so I cut the outer closed end off the tube, and have had some bar end plugs made to further cushion the blow in the event of a woopsy, can make for a change of riding position on long trips as well.
#CLEM
 
I am hoping the Computer-based switching on the Oxford grips will sort this out. It has an on-and-off setup plus it detects a drop in Voltage so if it falls below 12 volts it auto-switches off. So hope that works to not risk a flat battery.
 
Vince said:
I am hoping the Computer-based switching on the Oxford grips will sort this out. It has an on-and-off setup plus it detects a drop in Voltage so if it falls below 12 volts it auto-switches off. So hope that works to not risk a flat battery.
Click to expand...
Can’t you wire them via the ignition? You don’t want to forget to turn them off at morning smoko and have a flat batt at the first stop!
 
Vince said:
I am hoping the Computer-based switching on the Oxford grips will sort this out. It has an on-and-off setup plus it detects a drop in Voltage so if it falls below 12 volts it auto-switches off. So hope that works to not risk a flat battery.
Click to expand...

Good luck with that V. My auto switching solar charging in my van, saw my fridge go into fault, just this week. All good in theory
 
That would involve fiddling with the ignition switch on the dash, close to the horn location and that's a bloody nightmare to avoid. The issue is the Oil Cooler is mounted behind the headlight and that's all packaged really snug. The Heated Grips Controller now has really easy-to-see setting lights, they used to have LEDs that were invisible in daylight unless you cupped your hand over them. The Wiring they come with has Battery connections as standard.
 
I think Andy means having them connected via switched ignition, not literally the ignition switch - the less going through that the better. So you could take power off a suitable fused output or run a relay from same.
 
Well, there is no apparent battery drain using the supplied wiring instructions that have you directly attaching both the heated grips and the phone charging plug to the battery terminals with the supplied wiring and ring connectors but it does mean you can turn the heated grips on even with the key out of the bike via its on and off button and you can charge your phone when its plugged in all the time as well. I think the latter might be helpful to charge your phone overnight if your camping. I will leave it as is for now but might look to see if there is an accessory connection point on the 4 fuse block connections. I finally bolted the pannier racks on today after cutting the cable ties off the clothesline where I painted them. Even with 3 coats of rattle can epoxy plus an etch primer there are still bits on the undersides I missed. Next time. BTW the Enfeild Crash Bars look fantastic including their extended right side, added 100mm to pass beyond the Altinator Case. So much work, happy its 99% done.
 
CLEMTOG said:
are you talking about the outer end Paul, because I learned the hard way, that the outer end of the throttle twist tube if contacted on the ground even lightly, will push the tube "up" into the body and damage the flange at the cable end, sometimes doesnt show for a long time (ask me) as the flange may still be 20% atatched but when it breaks twas most inconveniant, so I cut the outer closed end off the tube, and have had some bar end plugs made to further cushion the blow in the event of a woopsy, can make for a change of riding position on long trips as well.
#CLEM
Click to expand...
The outer end and along it's whole length sometimes according to bars and grips.
Paul
 
I got my replacement right-side heated grip today and did some measuring. There is zero give in these grips so the fit needs to be pretty close. The throttle is 25.75mm and the grip is 24.9mm making the grip 0.85mm too tight to fit on. With 30 minutes of sanding on the throttle tube, it's now 25.5mm so it's close to halfway there. It will hopefully slide on easier tomorrow. The pain in the arse bit is the whole flipping lot, pannier racks, side covers, seat, tank bag and fuel tank need to come off to plug the heated grip in and every single one of those can and will have its own particular pain in the arse feature. Just the 2 seat bolts have taken 20 minutes each to get in right. And I am not joking, they come close to cross-threading every single time even after running a plugging tap through the captured frame-mounted thread. Stripping those threads would be really bad.
 
No idea what plastic the throttle tube is made of, it has a furry look and feel after sanding and produces a very fine grey dust.
 
It's almost as much work getting at the battery to charge it but I think I have found a way to use a remote charging plug with an Aligator clip-style battery charger. I am hoping this bunch has a way to do that.
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Vince said:
No idea what plastic the throttle tube is made of, it has a furry look and feel after sanding and produces a very fine grey dust.
Click to expand...
I’m think polypropylene Vince. Think plastic irrigation pipe union fittings. Again, fury when sanded or turned on a lathe.

On the up side, the glue will bond fantastico!
 
They are different sizes, the left grip is quite a bit narrower internally than the right and went on dead easy, visibly narrower. I have watched a bunch of how-to videos of installing these on various bikes. Lots have needed plenty of work on the throttle tube to fit but it's usually removing ridges or fin-like effects that maintain friction on your typical rubber grip. They need to be smooth, I guess my Atlas throttle tube is thicker than most. The best vid by Dellboy shows multiple dry fittings on and off and him saying it's important to be able to do that or if they're too tight and need bashing when glueing you can damage them. He also says to connect them to check their working before fitting, I guess he has had issues with both in the past just like me. My replacement grip was $51 plus postage so it's not the end of the world if you fuck it up.
 
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