What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Inner and outer spokes for those drum brake hubs are special Marty, seen the wrong ( new replacement ) spokes used and the pressure on the hub flange extension was more than a worry, ie all the pressure was on the flange as the incorrect angle and extension to butt spokes arced hard across the flange and most probable fracture. j
 
New spokes from Wolfgang zinc plated ones, correct, 2 different types. New ones are 4mm, old ones where 3.5mm, it was laced properly, but extra weight(who you calling fat...). Possible cause of spoke failure on the round Oz trip. Only 1 broke though.
 
Paul Marx said:
You're lucky but if you hadn't modified a perfectly functional bike, you wouldn't have broken down.
They don't need relays, M gadgets and all those excuses for breaking down.
Paul
Click to expand...
Your choice Paul but many people with many bikes of all makes have been stuck with shit contact in key switches, and it is dead easy to identify a failed relay (same Bosch mini relay on my bike since late 70's) and bypass it.
As far as I am concerned it is what people call a no brainer.
 
Tippie said:
Your choice Paul but many people with many bikes of all makes have been stuck with shit contact in key switches, and it is dead easy to identify a failed relay (same Bosch mini relay on my bike since late 70's) and bypass it.
As far as I am concerned it is what people call a no brainer.
Click to expand...
I've had it happen several times, including 3 times in the last couple of years.
The soldered join at the back of the switch gives way which may be linked to the power going through the switch, particularly riding with daytime lights on..
Once you've identified the fault, you join the red and brown (or black ?) wires out of the switch and ride on.
Solder back on when you get home.

Easier to identify in my opinion than a dud relay, and easier to fix.

Paul
 
martymoose said:
New spokes from Wolfgang zinc plated ones, correct, 2 different types. New ones are 4mm, old ones where 3.5mm, it was laced properly, but extra weight(who you calling fat...). Possible cause of spoke failure on the round Oz trip. Only 1 broke though.
Click to expand...
Could the spoke have been too strong? There may not have been enough give under hard shock loads causing the thicker spoke to fail. I have seen this in bicycles where heavyweight spokes have broken repeatedly, but when replaced by a smaller gage the failures stopped. Counter intuitive, but it has been known to happen.
 
Alzero said:
Could the spoke have been too strong? There may not have been enough give under hard shock loads causing the thicker spoke to fail. I have seen this in bicycles where heavyweight spokes have broken repeatedly, but when replaced by a smaller gage the failures stopped. Counter intuitive, but it has been known to happen.
Click to expand...
True about bicycle spokes and sizes (hence double butted) but a lot of breakages I'ver seen (i've worked in shops for decades) are the result of nothing more than crap quality spokes.
 
Late 60's had to earn the money for my racing bike builds, did that in various forms, repairing "singles" tyre and tube combined, more importantly laced and trued racing bike wheels for track and road, many combinations of lace patterns, on track wheels we wired and soldered the cross points of spokes, road wheels the actual tension on the double butted spokes was very low, problem spokes lead to collapsing wheels, lot in wheel building, another time. Did carry over this skill to motorcycle wire wheels, still have all my tools of the era, hopefully the actual skills...

Ok Marty on fit for purpose spokes, still keep an eye on the clearance on the flanges and any offset in the rim to hub... leading to unwanted tangential loading on the two flanges. Done a few drum respokes. j.
 
After multiple attempts to adjust my gearbox selector on the SFQ I now FINLLY have 1-down, 4-up, instead of 1-down, 5-, 6,- or 7-up! Never had an issue getting great shifting on as Lav. This one really had me stumped - perfect shifting on the centre stand and even with the rear wheel spinning and going through the gears with the motor running. As soon as I hit the road it was either 1st, 2nd-2nd-2nd and maybe eventually 3rd. At higher revs the prob was even worse. I've spent hours on this and a lot of brain calories. Very effing frustrating.

Was on the verge of dropping the motor and pulling the bottom case, so today I had a final crack - adjusted too far in both directions and decided it had to be overshifting - so 1st to 2nd was keeping the selector hook from engaging with the 3rd gear pin. Theory proved correct. Bliss!

Still overawed at just how fast this beast accelerates, especially now that the jetting is pretty much nailed - and running 19-36 gearing. even compensating for the 160/60x17 rear tyre that's HIGH gearing for a twin. It eats gears and hits 8k with absolute ease (tacho checked, corrected and confirmed via Ignitech software).

Still have to fully sort an annoying oil weep from sleeves/barrels - not disastrous but not in keeping with my high standards!

Need to get out and post some 'No Bull, Just Pics'!
 
Got some nice new condensers. My 750s are running the condensers they left Breganze with.
I shall make up a nice new points plate for the SF2. At the moment, it's a bit of a mess.
Paul
1692360517553.jpeg
 
Q been there, I once spent 6 months looking for 5th gear. Go so sick of leaning the bike over with the rear wheel jacked up and adjusting that ecocentric. In that situation, it was binding on the case, that tip I learned here.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top