RGS Head and Engine Removal Procedures

Why would that be a better option, buying a pretty boring modern bike? Who knows what Laverda might have been if it hadn't died on the vine in the late 1980s? Other than downtime fitting it and the cost where is the harm, people update brakes and susption, and even tyres improve over time. Why not update the engine as well? Plenty add modern carbs, I would be really interested in how a 4-valve injected 180 went. I don't just like the static feel of how my bike felt when I first bought it. It was pretty shit then, worn out pretty much but time and money improved that feeling and most of the modernising continued the improved way it feels. I very much doubt I would get close to a similar experience or feeling on any more modern bike than my 3c. I would be interested to see if there is a limit where it doesn't have that Laverda feeling. Nobody says adding a let's say Motod frame negats the Laverda experience, or boring the engine to 1200cc does as well. So why would a 4-valve head or FI reduce its qualities either? I wonder what a 2023 Laverda would be like?
 
It’s 2023, I don’t understand why there aren’t EFI conversion kits available for every classic bike! Including Laverdas.

Like adding electronic ignition, I can't see how having accurate and appropriate timing and fueling at all times could change the authenticity of a car or bike.
 
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Interested but not enamoured, I love the low-end torque of 2-valve motors and not so much the high rev power supplied by more modern 4-valve engines, how much of that is by engine tune compared to just the number of valves I don't know. I do understand you're never going to have the same valve flow from 2 big valves compared to 4 smaller ones with combined bigger openings, but I am curious to feel that effect, especially in the exact same engine. I had the same thoughts when they developed those 4 valve Westlake Nourish engines for Triumph.
 
Vince said:
I wonder what a 2023 Laverda would be like?
Click to expand...
Yamaha shows what a 3-cylinder, modern bike with a retro look could be...:

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At short over 10.000€ (base) or around 15.000 (fully equiped), it's not a bad deal... Not a Laverda, for sure, but also not a bad bike...

Or take the Triumphs, nice bikes with 3-cylinder engines there, too...

You know my bikes are everything but stock and yes, I would be interested in an EFI-System, too. However, it only makes sense to improve the engine if you are willing to improve the suspension, rideability, brakes etc., too. To achieve that, you need to spend around 15.000 € on top of your doner bike and end up with a bike, that is less worth (but fits you) than the doner bike was before most probably.

That said, buying a modern bike is also crashing money, so...
 
Laverdalothar said:
If there should be need (or desire) to fully restore the bike, the easiest way I fould was: strip the bike completely with the engine in the frame still, remove left side screws of the engine, with two people turn the frame with the engine onto some solid foam on its left side, remove the screws on the right side of the engine and lift the frame off the engine. Same when you put it back together: engine on left side, slide the frame over it, fasten right side screws and put the frame and engine upright and go from there. Don't forget to put the center stand on before you put the frame over the engine. Much easier...

cheers
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And should the front rubber vibration dampers be fitted to the engine first, or later, once you have placed the frame over them?
 
Jack not needed if you lift the bare frame over the sidewards laying engine. ;) But if just engine is removed and re-installed from a standing bike, you are right. You could also use a tension strap going over the top frame tumbes and under the engine to lift the engine up I think. If using a jack, make sure you distribute the load to a wider area to avoid cracks in the oil sump...
 
Thanks. 👍😊As soon as the temperatures in my garage are a bit more workable,🥶 I'll first try to put the frame over the engine with the rubber engine mounts attached to the block. I remember (the RGS has been completely dismantled for a while now) that when dismantling it, there is very little space around the block bolts.
 
That is why I did only install the right side ones on the frame and then put the frame with it's left side over the engine, fastened the rubber mounts to the engine mounts, did the front ones I think to remember as far as I could get to it, then tilted the frame up and mounted the left side rubber mounts. It helps to have rubber hoses (thick garden hoses) cut up on one side and put them over the frame tubes to protect them from scratches. I zip-tide them to keep them in place. Helped a lot...!
 
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