Brembo brake pads

Tippie said:
1mm would be fine, but the calipers must be perfectly centred. Have you centred everything on the axle by bouncing it hard against the brakes before final tightening of pinch bolts etc.
I have been surprised how thick Mals discs are, they look massively thick to the eye.
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Good point,I always thought the tightening up procedure of the front axle/forks was a complicated affair on the triples?
 
Possibly I'm in error here, but 1mm gap between solid mounted rotors and brake pads is too tight- if they were floating that would be a different story. According to Bevel Heaven, the earlier Ducati versions have no logo and mine have the Brembo logo. I've ordered the shaved EBC pads from Paddy. Again, I've just received this bike so I'm unsure about it's full history, and looking down into the open caliper, it appears one side is slightly closer to the rotor. At some point I'll look into newer/lighter/thinner rotors, but for now this will do, and I've got a few other things to correct on this bike.

Thanks all for your input!
 
TeddyG said:
Possibly I'm in error here, but 1mm gap between solid mounted rotors and brake pads is too tight- if they were floating that would be a different story. According to Bevel Heaven, the earlier Ducati versions have no logo and mine have the Brembo logo. I've ordered the shaved EBC pads from Paddy. Again, I've just received this bike so I'm unsure about it's full history, and looking down into the open caliper, it appears one side is slightly closer to the rotor. At some point I'll look into newer/lighter/thinner rotors, but for now this will do, and I've got a few other things to correct on this bike.

Thanks all for your input!
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Why should that be too tight? How do you want to go about increasing it?

Uneven caliper spacing over the disc is no big deal (in an ideal world it would be centred) as long as one piston isn't bottomed, the hydraulics take care of that once the system is bled. The calipers and discs offer about +/- 1.0mm tolerance before a piston bottoms.

Upon releasing brake pressure, there will always be a slight amount of friction between pads and disc. Disc wobble/run-out, fork flex and vibrations may increase this after a couple of hundred metres riding, but after the next braking procedure, it starts all over again.

Rattly and wobbly floating discs tend to push the pads further apart, something you don't really want when hammering 10/10 into the next hair-pin. Wild panic is a gross understatement when too much pad/disc clearance allows you to pull the lever to the grip without noticable speed decrease. This is the main reason todays "floating" discs are semi-rigid. They offer just enough lateral movement to compensate heat warpage without stressing the rider with unsafe lever travel.

piet
 
Tippie said:
Nah, it is 1 kmh according to the road safety ads here. Speed limit = safely stopped with metres to spare, 1k over and the car is an unrecognisable wreck smashed into a tractor.
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My youngest daughters car rolled into the tow ball of my ute a couple of days ago. She was going about 1kph. No damage to either vehicle.

Fucken glad it was my ute not a tractor! 😉
 
TeddyG said:
1mm gap between solid mounted rotors and brake pads is too tight
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I think you are in error. Gap between pad and disc is quoted in the 750SFC handbook as 0.2mm, shown measured with a feeler gauge. (There are several other tolerances quoted for parallelism, runout etc below). I think a similar figure also appears in the early triple workshop manual/handbook. As Piet notes, old seals lose their flexibility and reduce the 'pull back' of the piston when brake lever is released and this gap will be less.

Parallelism of wheel hub and brake discs 0.05mm.
Flatness of brake disc 0.025 mm.
Max disc runout 0.2 mm, although RGS shop manual quotes 0.1mm
 
OK guys- you know Laverdas better than I do. Perhaps I'm in error- I thought such close tolerances will create undue brake drag- the pads can barely squeeze into the calipers that have fully retracted pucks. I'm more familiar w/ 4 pad Brembos on my Aprilias that have a bit more freeplay between the pads and floating rotors. I'll see how the brakes perform in the spring.
 
My R1 calipers seemed in perfect nick but I wasn't happy with the drag once installed and bled on semi-floating rotors. I rebuilt them with new seals and it's fixed - old seals look perfect but difference is noticeable.
 
I had the same problem when I installed a set of Malcolm Coxs' discs on my 3C.
It was finally solved by tightening the axle once everything was in place. There's not much room to spare with those thicker discs.
Paul
 
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