What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

I mentioned a few posts ago that I attended to my valve clearances as part of my prep for Breganze...

The RH exhaust clearance was quite reduced and I thought at the time "Hmmm, I have a feeling that has gone down a bit quick, but I will reset it, run it and overcheck".

Rechecking last eve, 350 miles later, plus finding my notes from the last time I measured, show I do indeed have rapidly reducing clearance on that valve, so it's game over for the Jota getting to Breganze. Bollocks.
 
I mentioned a few posts ago that I attended to my valve clearances as part of my prep for Breganze...

The RH exhaust clearance was quite reduced and I thought at the time "Hmmm, I have a feeling that has gone down a bit quick, but I will reset it, run it and overcheck".

Rechecking last eve, 350 miles later, plus finding my notes from the last time I measured, show I do indeed have rapidly reducing clearance on that valve, so it's game over for the Jota getting to Breganze. Bollocks.
Gotta be a reason for that, very likely the valve is stretching (the poppet head actully "tulips" after severe overheating). Check the float heights!

piet
 
Hi Piet. Yes, needs a thorough investigation. I'm fastidious about carb setting, but ya never know. Out with the engine (later in the year now) for a good looking at and gathering of the evidence. The head was refurbed not all that long ago, so hopefully its just a valve problem and not seat destruction problems.

Summary: SF down and out, Jota down and out, Honda Blackbird winking at me, saying "you can still go to Breganze chap, think of those lovely Alpine Passes, plus you will give your Laverda buddies the opportunity to take the piss, mercilessly"
 
New tires on the Formula and checked the regulator/rectifire as it seems to drain the battery over time; funny enough, everything seems to be within specs (while the Ohm-test showed relatively low results on the alternator, just 0,2 Ohm; but no shortage between the two). Not sure where it is loosing voltage, but after roughly 100km, the turn signals go much slower than with a fresh battery... maybe I need to replace the front lights and the tail-light with LED's...?

Also fixed the brake issue on the 1000 SFC, has decent rear brake now (even if it's not blocking, but it's definitely much improved - see other thread; might have to brake-in the new brake-pads... Only done roughly 10 brakings from 40 down to 10km/h up and down the street).
I am also having a few issues with reg/recs seemingly draining batteries at the moment. I don’t seem to recall it being an issue years ago, so what’s changed?
 
you will give your Laverda buddies the opportunity to take the piss, mercilessly"
You won't be the only one providing that sport. I'm working on the basis that it matters more to be there than on a Laverda. The missus reckons the RGS vibrates too much 🙄
Anyways, I can confirm that Piet's tulip suggestion likely to be spot on. Had the same thing happen to me. 10 thou disappeared in c1000 miles. Mixture was fine during my ownership, so who knows?
 
Thanks Rob. I'm chucking the Blackbird into a last-minute MOT tmrw and I'll will see what happens. No prep other than checking for beep beep and lumens, but should be fine. I certainly hope to be in Breganze - after 2 solid (ultimately fruitless) weeks of late night laverda fettling, just to see any example of the marque running sweetly would be a pleasure!

Also hoping the Jota valve/head fix is an easy one. A cupped/tuliped valve I can happily deal with, major head work would try my patience.

Jane said 'my vstrom vibrates more than my old vfr, but I kinda like it'. She seems to want to go out more than ever these days😀
 
Drilled a hole in the bottom case of the 3C for better clutch oiling and dug out the parts necessary to rebuild the gearbox. Quite touching, they've been lying in a box ever since I could walk again. About a year I imagine.
Paul
I'm not sure that's a good idea Paul.

As I understand the primary drive lubrication, oil is supplied to the main crankshaft bearings and drains out of the sides of the bearings. Some of the oil supplied to the left main bearing will drain into the primary chain case. That oil partially fills the case up to the level of the overflow hole. Any excess oil that finds its way into the primary case then drains back to the sump. So there's always a quantity of oil in the primary case sufficient to allow the chain and clutch to dip into the pool of oil as they rotate. They'll get plenty of oil and fling it around so the oil pump gear and outrigger bearings also get oil. The hole in the inner wall of the primary drive case is located where it is to set that oil level.

Drilling a hole at the bottom of the primary drive enclosure will allow all the oil to drain from the primary case, effectively removing the pool of oil that was previously held in there (that hole you've drilled is above the sump oil level). The clutch, primary drive and anything else in that case will run pretty much dry.

Later models that came with a lower drain hole could get away with it because they had positive lubrication via a jet of oil squirted onto the primary chain.

Happy to be corrected on any of the above if I've got it wrong.
 
I'm not sure that's a good idea Paul.

As I understand the primary drive lubrication, oil is supplied to the main crankshaft bearings and drains out of the sides of the bearings. Some of the oil supplied to the left main bearing will drain into the primary chain case. That oil partially fills the case up to the level of the overflow hole. Any excess oil that finds its way into the primary case then drains back to the sump. So there's always a quantity of oil in the primary case sufficient to allow the chain and clutch to dip into the pool of oil as they rotate. They'll get plenty of oil and fling it around so the oil pump gear and outrigger bearings also get oil. The hole in the inner wall of the primary drive case is located where it is to set that oil level.

Drilling a hole at the bottom of the primary drive enclosure will allow all the oil to drain from the primary case, effectively removing the pool of oil that was previously held in there (that hole you've drilled is above the sump oil level). The clutch, primary drive and anything else in that case will run pretty much dry.

Later models that came with a lower drain hole could get away with it because they had positive lubrication via a jet of oil squirted onto the primary chain.

Happy to be corrected on any of the above if I've got it wrong.
Having looked into it several times due to my sticking clutch problems, I can assure you that residual oil in the primary case was around 50cc at the most, even after having run the bike after leaving it half an hour lain on its left hand side. So, residual oil in the primary compartment isn't a problem, getting oil in there other than through the gearbox bearings is.

This engine has a high flow pump, so I doubt that there will be an oiling deficit to the lh main.

Paul
 
The oil is only "pumped" to the two inner most crank bearings, and the six cam bearings, all other areas (including the two outer crank bearings) are lubricated by splash. The best thing to do with the (so equiped) bikes that have the oil drilling/jet for the primary chain case is to block it up. It never was needed and only deprives the important bits of a little bit of the available oil., crankcases changed a lot over the years and the drillings from engine/gearbox cavity to primary case were changed a few times.
CLEM
 
Never thought this would happen! Clean snap as I stood on the tang to prop up.
Bike fell over before I could react. Rash to alternator cover and grip.
No rust visible at the break, clean shiny metal.
Puzzled!!!
 

Attachments

  • IMG-20240625-WA0007.jpg
    IMG-20240625-WA0007.jpg
    188.8 KB · Views: 48
  • IMG-20240625-WA0011.jpg
    IMG-20240625-WA0011.jpg
    171.4 KB · Views: 48
Never thought this would happen! Clean snap as I stood on the tang to prop up.
Bike fell over before I could react. Rash to alternator cover and grip.
No rust visible at the break, clean shiny metal.
Puzzled!!!
Odd and somewhat curios, but perfect for a right hand exit 3/1 exhaust. Just round off the sharp bit.

Don’t use the stand while wearing thongs.🩴
 
Odd and somewhat curios, but perfect for a right hand exit 3/1 exhaust. Just round off the sharp bit.

Don’t use the stand while wearing thongs.🩴
I stopped riding with sandals, shorts, T-shirt and sunglasses many moons ago.
For the trip to Breganze a Bushman sidestand, tucked away since he sold it to me, will be installed.
The factory sidestand is a bit wobbly, coming off.

What really annoyed me was a BM trouble-you rider on a GS thing just riding by as I was lifting the beast back up.
 
All done.
I'd told the lady that I wouldn't fit the silencers until she'd cleaned her bike. I had to take one off to fit the shocks, so marital rigour be damned.
Many thanks to Alberto Pastorelli for the complete exhaust system. A nice piece of kit. I just needed to ease out the silencers a bit using one of those cheap expanders nobody should be without.
Paul
1719417281045.jpeg
1719417299172.jpeg
 
I stopped riding with sandals, shorts, T-shirt and sunglasses many moons ago.
For the trip to Breganze a Bushman sidestand, tucked away since he sold it to me, will be installed.
The factory sidestand is a bit wobbly, coming off.

What really annoyed me was a BM trouble-you rider on a GS thing just riding by as I was lifting the beast back up.

The week before last one of our mates did fall over while maneuvering on the side of the road - he'd missed a hole and well, his right foot wasn't long enough.

Another mate and me immediately put the bike back upright. Then we checked how our friend was doing.
That's the right order, isn't it?
 
Back
Top