Simonr501
Hero member
- Location
- Lympne, Kent. UK
Paddy said:not mine
Yours ain't quite standard, plus you have got the front calipers the wrong side of the fork legs
Yours ain't quite standard, plus you have got the front calipers the wrong side of the fork legs
P
Paddy
Guest
SimonR501 said:
The early 120s had the callipers round that way, Laverda just swapped the for legs over later. If you look at the red one above the wheel nut is on the wrong side.
G
Grant
Guest
Depends how the fork legs were machined. I have seen several with the nut on either side, independent of caliper position.
My red one above still wore the original brake hoses, so left the factory like that. It was X reg so probably not the first batch made.
My red one above still wore the original brake hoses, so left the factory like that. It was X reg so probably not the first batch made.
P
Paddy
Guest
Yea, if you look at the Falloon book they just turned the fork legs round which meant the cut out for the speedo drive was on the wrong side where as Ducati had the Marzocchi make new legs.
blab
Hero member
- Location
- Adelaide South Australia
If the drain screws are at the front,it would suggest the forks have been swapped.
And if you read Falloon's "Bible",in the intro he says due to lack of info on the Marque a lot of this will be guess work.
A bit like the original bible I suppose.
And if you read Falloon's "Bible",in the intro he says due to lack of info on the Marque a lot of this will be guess work.
A bit like the original bible I suppose.
Ex-factory, Laverda front axles were always inserted from the RH side, with the first step of the axle locating the speedo drive and clamping the wheel assembly to the LH slider. When the caliper position was changed, ie, the sliders swapped, the bore sizes were changed to suit, but the drain screws remained, now on the "wrong" side of the slider.
Bikes with the axle nut on the RH side have had the sliders swapped to re-locate the calipers... no big deal, only the wheel spacing should be checked as a special spacer is required at the speedo drive to get the wheel centred. When inserted from the right, a gap of about 1-2mm should be evident between speedo drive and slider, the slider is then clamped to the axle. This space must be accounted for when the axle is inserted from the left. The LH spacer should be shortened accordingly to allow the LH slider to find its' position freely on the axle, otherwise stanchion distortion and fork binding/excessive wear can result.
piet
Bikes with the axle nut on the RH side have had the sliders swapped to re-locate the calipers... no big deal, only the wheel spacing should be checked as a special spacer is required at the speedo drive to get the wheel centred. When inserted from the right, a gap of about 1-2mm should be evident between speedo drive and slider, the slider is then clamped to the axle. This space must be accounted for when the axle is inserted from the left. The LH spacer should be shortened accordingly to allow the LH slider to find its' position freely on the axle, otherwise stanchion distortion and fork binding/excessive wear can result.
piet
blab
Hero member
- Location
- Adelaide South Australia
Mine has reversed forks,cant see a spacer on the speedo side.Left disc looks a couple of mm closer to the slider than the right.Could this be causing my weave problem ?
Simonr501
Hero member
- Location
- Lympne, Kent. UK
blab said:
There is supposed to be one there, as Piet said - ITEM 17 on drawing:
blab
Hero member
- Location
- Adelaide South Australia
I haven't taken my axle out,but looking at it assembled I see no spacer.
Simon,
Item #17 is the steel washer that sits inside the speedo drive housing preventing the step of the axle from digging into and distorting the alloy, making axle removal extremely difficult. Mind you, manyowners bodgers manage to do that anyway, despite the washer! Takes a bit of fettling to attain a nice sliding fit again. :
This washer can be replaced with a thicker spacer to ensure correct spacing when the sliders are swapped for the sake of caliper position.
Blab,
What side is the axle nut?
If the sliders have been swapped, it would be on the right... this would mean the wheel assembly has moved to the RH side if no spacer has been added, also moves the LH disc away from the slider. If the wheel is moved too far, the discs will scrape on the insides of the calipers, the pads will not free off and discs, pads and piston seals will be fried in short time! Easy to see if the discs are centred in the calipers, just peer over the centre seam of the calipers.
piet
Item #17 is the steel washer that sits inside the speedo drive housing preventing the step of the axle from digging into and distorting the alloy, making axle removal extremely difficult. Mind you, many
This washer can be replaced with a thicker spacer to ensure correct spacing when the sliders are swapped for the sake of caliper position.
Blab,
What side is the axle nut?
If the sliders have been swapped, it would be on the right... this would mean the wheel assembly has moved to the RH side if no spacer has been added, also moves the LH disc away from the slider. If the wheel is moved too far, the discs will scrape on the insides of the calipers, the pads will not free off and discs, pads and piston seals will be fried in short time! Easy to see if the discs are centred in the calipers, just peer over the centre seam of the calipers.
piet
blab
Hero member
- Location
- Adelaide South Australia
Nut is on the r/h side.I cant see a spacer between speedo drive and fork.
Both discs are right of the caliper centre.
I need to look at the shims to see if I can fix that.
R/H disc is a mm or two closer to slider.
Both discs are right of the caliper centre.
I need to look at the shims to see if I can fix that.
R/H disc is a mm or two closer to slider.
P
Paddy
Guest
According to Falloon there was only one casting for the legs as used on the Series 2 180 and they just reversed this on some 120's
The Ducati leg had a groove for the speedo drive so they made a new casting
Mine has nut on the left and bleed to the rear.
Point is i suppose as i am building this into a 180 look a like the callipers should be on the front anyway.
The Ducati leg had a groove for the speedo drive so they made a new casting
Mine has nut on the left and bleed to the rear.
Point is i suppose as i am building this into a 180 look a like the callipers should be on the front anyway.
blab
Hero member
- Location
- Adelaide South Australia
That nut in pic one should be a yellow nyloc,c'mon man get with the program.
Easy fix Blab;
Work out how far the wheel must be shifted (remove the LH spacer and replace the wheel/disc/speedo drive assembly, centre it in the calipers and measure the resulting gap between speedo drive and RH slider). Pry out the steel washer from the speedo drive, machine a spacer the according thickness with a spigot to fit the speedo drive and press this into the speedo drive. This will allow you to avoid all the fiddling to place a tiny spacer between the wheel and slider while trying to hold the wheel and speedo drive box in place and pushing in the axle at the same time. Shorten the LH spacer by the same amount as the new RH spacer thickness, and all should end up nicely centred.
Don't see any of this curing your weave problem though! Check wheel and head stem bearings (check for notchy action around the centre position or tightness through the complete swivel angle) while the wheel is out, assuming front and rear tyres are in acceptable condition. Might be worth taking a closer look at the swingarm bearings as well, or at least applying a couple of strokes of the greasegun.
piet
Work out how far the wheel must be shifted (remove the LH spacer and replace the wheel/disc/speedo drive assembly, centre it in the calipers and measure the resulting gap between speedo drive and RH slider). Pry out the steel washer from the speedo drive, machine a spacer the according thickness with a spigot to fit the speedo drive and press this into the speedo drive. This will allow you to avoid all the fiddling to place a tiny spacer between the wheel and slider while trying to hold the wheel and speedo drive box in place and pushing in the axle at the same time. Shorten the LH spacer by the same amount as the new RH spacer thickness, and all should end up nicely centred.
Don't see any of this curing your weave problem though! Check wheel and head stem bearings (check for notchy action around the centre position or tightness through the complete swivel angle) while the wheel is out, assuming front and rear tyres are in acceptable condition. Might be worth taking a closer look at the swingarm bearings as well, or at least applying a couple of strokes of the greasegun.
piet
blab
Hero member
- Location
- Adelaide South Australia
That aint easy for me.
This is a fully restored bike,all that stuff is brand new.
Bent frame is looking ugly at this point.
This is a fully restored bike,all that stuff is brand new.
Bent frame is looking ugly at this point.
Simonr501
Hero member
- Location
- Lympne, Kent. UK
Paddy said:
Hands up all Jota 120 owners that have the calipers in front of forks - not so fast Paddy!
P
Paddy
Guest
blab said:
With respect a fully restored bike means little unless you did it yourself.
As piet says even a tad too tight on the head races will cause a weave. I knew a guy that had horrendous weave problems on an old 750 Honda and that turned out to be the wrong size tube in the front tire ! A soft shock or one under filled fork maybe ?
sfcpiet said:
Oops, factory photos of the Jota120 show the axle inserted from the left, same as the RGS prototype pictured on the cover of the factory RGS parts book. :-[ :
Paddy said:
According to factory parts lists and supplements, the calipers were moved to the rear of the forks with the inception of the Jota 120?. The Series II 180s (from 1000*7237*, 1200*3063*)had the calipers in front, the change to the full flexible hose in place of the hose & tube set up occurred at VIN #1000*7517*, 1200*3257*. The part # for the Jota 120 sliders are the same as for the earlier bikes, just that the numbers now denote opposite sides! The spacer between speedo drive and RH slider is indeed different, part# 33 115 201, as opposed to 33 115 781 for the earlier Marzocchi-forked bikes. It seems the LH spacer was retained, as there is no mention of any alteration in the Jota120? supplement.
The production RGS got different fork sliders, to allow the axle to be inserted from the right once again. Drain screw was left where it was... on the front of the slider.
piet
P
Paddy
Guest
SimonR501 said:Hands up all Jota 120 owners that have the calipers in front of forks - not so fast Paddy!
Damn and i had my hand up straight away as well. End of the day i'm the new boy and to be fair i dont habve a clue what i am talking about with Lavs so i bow to everyone else's knowledge. As the forks are in bits i will have to make a decision soon , i have a set of brembo Golds and a set of Shaved brembo's as well so i don't even know what i will be using for callipers yet. I'm thinking Gold on an orange bike will be eh....really camp
P
Paddy
Guest
Nice parcel in the post today..
a few bit back from the chromers for my conversion. Many thanks to Red for the headlamp brackets and Dale in Malta for the clock backs and the clocks which i have no rebuilt
Now i have the backs i can do the loom to convert these clocks to the 120 loom.
I would love to have done a full rebuild but i simply don't have the time so a quick spruce up for the Spring is about as good as its going to get this year.
a few bit back from the chromers for my conversion. Many thanks to Red for the headlamp brackets and Dale in Malta for the clock backs and the clocks which i have no rebuilt
Now i have the backs i can do the loom to convert these clocks to the 120 loom.
I would love to have done a full rebuild but i simply don't have the time so a quick spruce up for the Spring is about as good as its going to get this year.