1972 750SF out of storage

Instead the use of snake oil I would recommend to drop the fresh oil after 50km or even right after you got the first full heat cycle on the engine. Don't know about the twins, but the early triples need the primary case to be drained separately, otherwise the old muck would stay in there.

With storage time of 10yrs, roller bearings inside the engine might be affected by corrosion, too. especially when the bike has rested with used (sour) oil fill, and the engine never being turned during storage. This stillstand bearing corrosion might not lead to immediate engine failure, but will reduce overall lifetime of the bearings. The corrosion residues will start to come off the bearings right after running the engine from storage, another good reason to replace the fresh oil fill after short usage.
 
Apologies for late reply guys, have been busy with work this week and its getting a bit nippy in the garage to be honest with you.

The tank was emptied and dried before i laid the bike up and the carbs were drained. Had a look at the crabs a few weeks ago and they seem fine, nothing blocked and no gunk from the look of things, not sure what they like once i try and start it up.

Have bought a brand new battery which has been filled with fresh acid and is on slow charge as we speak.

Also, drained the old 15 yr old oil yesterday, its very dark, but i just realised i cant fill her up with mineral oil and start her up as i havent got any spare oil filter gaskets, the one i took of yesterday is not usable, also it looks like the last time i had the oil changed the garage must have used some sort of rubbery gasket glue on it, is this recommended?

Following on form all the advice, which is greatly appreciated by the way, i have decided that since it moves freely i will fill her up and go through the procedures so many have advised and try and start it, having left out plugs for first couple of turns.

Im sure it will fir up, i have left it laid up before and it fires up, its a tough old thing, not like these Ducati's..........ooops, i forgot i have one of those too. Sorry Red.

Not going to bother with Marvel oils etc, will see how i get on with getting it started and listen out for anything out of the ordinary. Of course i plan on changing the oil after it has cooled and putting in fresh oil. Maybe change that too after a few runs on the bike.

Do Slaters still provide spares such as the gasket mentioned above? im Middlesex, anywhere closer?

Regards
 
the garage must have used some sort of rubbery gasket glue on it, is this recommended?
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No - not needed unless the (alloy) oil filter plate has been attacked with a screwdriver to lever it off or otherwise mullered.

Do Slaters still provide spares such as the gasket mentioned above?
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Yes
 
Do Slaters still provide spares such as the gasket mentioned above? im Middlesex, anywhere closer?
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Got all 750 gaskets - mainly UK made - just up the road from middlesex - in Lincolnshire - Regards - Phil
 
Should have suggested you as an alternative source, Phil - sorry!

Inda - Phil's postal service is efficient & prices good - highly recommended.  Click on his profile name to get email details
 
But it's not such a mystery. The stuff was analysed by NTSB after it was implicated in an aircraft engine failure (resulting in a crash) and was found to contain 74% mineral oil, 25% white spirit and 1% lard. You could mix up your own batch at home if you think that's good stuff to be putting in your engine or fuel system. But I wouldn't recommend it.

I saw that report..and the concentration of MMO was so high the fuel was "red" in color..rather than the normal color..all that said..MMO has oil of wintergreen, Tricresyl Phosphate and carbon tetrachloride..probably in the "white spirit" percentage..whatever.Today stoddard solvents and mineral oils make up the bulk of chemicals sold off the shelve to clean varnishes from fuel system components and carburetors with good results.

MMO tastes great on a green salad too.
 
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