1974 Laverda 1000 3C

sfcpiet said:
A The holes in the plate cover can be taken out to 6.5mm and de-burred. The bores in the pillars will accept an M6 tap, if done carefully the thread will end up quite acceptable.

piet
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Doing this job now on two 750 clutch hubs and considering 6mm tap or US thread equivalent to replace the drilled and punched out rivets.

On the 750s is there space/clearance for a hex bolt head or should I be looking for very low profile socket cap bolts?
 
Definitely slim nut heads. I had the SFC clutchhub done back in the early 80s and after a few hundred miles I removed the primary cover for some reason and was shocked to find the nut heads had made their own little clearance on the cover webs!! I opened it up a minute amount with a needle file to give the nuts some clearance.
Another reason to do stuff yourself so you only have yourself to blame. It was a Lav workshop that did the job!!!
 
tyelav13 said:
I accepted a request from Ken to join my OIF triumph and BSA Facebook page yesterday so he appears to be ok 👍.
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Hi Tyrone, are these bikes part of your never to see the light of day collection, like your Morini’s ?😉 Morini meet as per normal at The Powis Arms tomorrow. Attended the Welsh meet on Sunday at Builth, hope to see there you one day. With Regard Laverdas I hope to see you Sunday, hopefully with no incidents which seem to occur to you when we meet😀.
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if you are adept with the requisit tools (or know someone who is) then you can buy a Norton Commando chain and shorten it, much cheaper than buying through Laverda outlets, and wil be brabded Regina or Reynolds, this is a triplex, and should be correct for your bike, but if it has been run with a duplex using only two rows of the three teeth, then it would be better to stick with that, the Mercedes diesel uses that type of chain, but its a bit dear as its long enough for three bike chains.
I am fairly sure that the knocking will be a loose jesus nut on the crankshaft sprocket, very often they are tightened up NOT USING the correct locking tool, they do have to be FT so the factory or aftermarket cranshaft locking tool is a must, without it you simply wont get it tight enough (very common in DIY) or you can use a rattle gun. if it was loose check the splines, because if they have worn you MUST DO SOMETHING, this can be replacing the outer crank web and the sprocket (best) fitting it with Loctite gapp filling spline fit (not so good) or even welding the sprocket to the crank if it very bad and is scrap anyway (works well) I have done two welds as this, and I never heard from the owners again, so assume it was good, and I did one with Loctite which also didnt fail, but was replaced when the engine was apart for some other reason.
CLEM
 
Hi mate, I am in Australia at the moment but home soon although not in time for the laverda meet. The Bonnie has been used a fair bit although I have broken the gearbox (first gear) and not had time to sort it yet. Hopefully when I get home. I have one Morini left but another not sorted yet. Keep me informed of the meets as I will call on something else, I could do with a run out. I still have a couple of bikes ready to go so look forward to it 😊👍.
 
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