3C wiring

Well, the electrics appear to be functional.
I can't test the brake light yet because the brake isn't assembled at the front. I'm waiting for the calipers to come back from the coaters up front, and need to make up a cable at the back and devise a stop light from there.

My question concerns the wiring in the headlight.
The multiple connections are in strips. Perfectly functional but those strips take up quite a bit of room and packing everything back in the headlight is a recipe for trouble.
I of course thought of plugs, better protection for the connections.
My question is the following:
On each strip, one feed is going to several sub harnesses. 1 earth bridging across 4 or 5 connectors gives 4 or 5 earths the other side of the strip, same thing for live feed and switched feed.
Look at the diagram, the main strips have multiple feeds from, marron (brown), rouge ( red ) and noir ( black ). The two small strips with a yellow (jaune) feed concern the indicators and will be redundant on my bike.
What sort of hardware in the form of plug type connectors would allow me to reproduce that, one feed to multiple sub systems?

I hope I've been clear, my English vocabulary is going back to where it came from.

Paul
 
Paul,

You could swap the connector strips for multiple pin connectors and bridge the pins on one side, this creates loads of space. Even slimmer, the pins can be bridged internally. The 1990's Harley Davidson connectors were very similar to what Laverda used in the 80's, H-D used tiny holed strips slipped over a row of pins inside the connectors. This has almost emptied the headlight bowl of my GTL and has been dead reliable since the restoration in 1994.

piet
 
Really good question, Paul - can you post a pic of those connectors, Piet. I actually searched for some kind of block with one 'in' for power or earth and several 'outs' but ended up improvising on the std Lav system of piggy-backed wires in strip connectors), as there were too many different areas that would have required to-and-from wires, thus negating the gains. A single +power feed pole fuse box would have been great. I think there is a joint in the US that sells a fuse box like that.

It's an issue I ran into when rewiring the SFQ. I guess that's what the M-Gadget is good for : one power feed (red)/switched feed (brown)/earth (black) that supplies multiple outlets. I spent quite a bit of time trying to position fuse boxes and connectors in places that were accessible but not cluttered (eg inside headlights!!). Not entirely successful under my tank but definitely better than original. Having 4 relays and all the associated feed wires made the prob quite a bit harder, but the benefits of using them outweighed the disadvantages (most of which can be negated with judicious use of cable ties!). I ended up going with a combo of smaller Lav strip blocks (3 x 4 under the tank) and Deutsch connectors under the seat. Much smaller coils helped.
 
Paul,

You could swap the connector strips for multiple pin connectors and bridge the pins on one side, this creates loads of space. Even slimmer, the pins can be bridged internally. The 1990's Harley Davidson connectors were very similar to what Laverda used in the 80's, H-D used tiny holed strips slipped over a row of pins inside the connectors. This has almost emptied the headlight bowl of my GTL and has been dead reliable since the restoration in 1994.

piet
Thanks Piet. I'll have a look around. I have a bag full of generic multiple pin connectors that I bought to rewire Corinnes 500 and never used in the end. I hadn't thought about bridging the connectors.

Paul
 
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