3CL engine mount plates stainless

Thanks for all the replies..
Mine are ally with a big hole in the middle.. not showing any signs of cracking or hole elongation, I just thought stainless would look nicer seeing as everything else is getting a makeover. If pushed I can get some made locally, although I might just as well polish up the ( originals) and stick them back on.
 
Motalia here in UK makes and sells them, plenty have bought them, fitted them and not commented on them, but (personally) I dont think they look right unless they are stock looking (so whats the point of s/s ones and paint them black, and paint doesnt like adhering to s/s) lightning holes are all well and good but (again) change the look, and anyway on proper triples they have a bent stick welded on them for the engine "keep clean" panels bottom mount.
CLEM
 
sfcpiet said:
Of course there's not much sense in doing it. ...
Click to expand...

Hey Piet, don't sell yourself short. I just did a bit of arithmetic and calculated that your 5mm aluminium engine plate with the hole is 60 grams lighter than the 4.4mm thick solid steel engine plate from the Laverda factory. I had to guestimate the size of the hole in your plate so it might be a bit more or less. That's an impressive weight reduction of 120 grams for both, which is equivalent to about half a cup of water (not including the cup). Well worth the effort I'd say.

I was initially concerned that such a weight reduction near the front end of your bike would make it difficult to keep the front wheel on the ground. It could also upset the front/rear weight bias, unloading the front suspension and causing the front wheel to lose traction in corners. But I'm relieved to see that you've more than made up for the weight loss in the engine plates by adding a big yellow lump of fibreglass around the headlight.

I was lying awake last night thinking about that little triangular plate (as you do), and I came to the conclusion that it's the wrong shape. The metal at the front edge of the plate (between the two bolts that attach to the frame) is redundant. It doesn't need to be there because it's not doing anything. The frame doesn't need any additional support between those two bolts. So rather than just boring a hole in the middle of the plate, you could have also cut that front section out altogether, leaving a V shaped plate. Or more appropriately (considering your Australian heritage) a boomerang shape.

Now I'm inspired to jump on the light engine plate bandwagon. I'm going to make some boomerang shaped plates out of super magnesium alloy.
 
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