750's don't vibrate.....much

One fix I have seen is to get a piece of 2mm thick flexible rubber a bit thicker than a car innertube and make a loose loop with it fixed inside the loop top and bottom and bludging in the middle and fix the light to the rubber, it acts like a soft vibe free mount. As long as it still lights up the number plate all is well. I think either Honda or Harley use bulbs that handle vibs better. Think it was Harleys of old. My one and only go at LED failed in less than a day, that was a car kit that cost $40 for 2 bulbs, both died quick. I was hoping for a brighter brake light, Good luck.
 
What's your taillight setup Marty? I found that too much movement on the rubber mounting made things worse. For 20 years I had a Kawasaki trail bike tail light. The mount was plastic and the tail light body and lens bolted to that - it was fairly solidly mounted to the SF mudguard and I never had issues with the bulbs blowing. Got LEDs in the Q but not tried yet.
 
If you get desperate, use a twin filament bulb with equal high wattage - I think I've used to use 18/18W in the original tail light - and you get a nice bright tail light to boot! the heavier filament is far more resistant to vibes.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
If you get desperate, use a twin filament bulb with equal high wattage - I think I've used to use 18/18W in the original tail light - and you get a nice bright tail light to boot! the heavier filament is far more resistant to vibes.
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Might melt the lens though. Certainly is an issue with Lucas 525 rear lights, the stuck brake light switch produced an ugly bulge in the lens!

piet
 
I have added rubber washers and use nylocs for my standard tail light/number plate bracket. It stopped the number plate bracket from cracking regularly and the tail light globes also lasted much longer. I used an led globe as a park globe in my headlight, it didn't last a year and cost ten times a normal globe. Be aware buying "standard" twin filament tail/brake bulbs, all the modern varieties have the locating pins offset at about 170 degrees instead of what used to be normal 180 deg opposite each other and they won't go in.
 
Tippie said:
Be aware buying "standard" twin filament tail/brake bulbs, all the modern varieties have the locating pins offset at about 170 degrees instead of what used to be normal 180 deg opposite each other and they won't go in.
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Yes, why the fuck did they do that? Just to piss everyone off it seems, and make old vehicles difficult to maintain.
 
I've already tried two different brands and their distribution pattern made the light output much worse, so if anyone knows a taillight bulb that will actually be BRIGHTER in the round CEV light, please let us know. I am actually tinkering with the idea of using combined LED brakelight/turnsignals snd putting a single 21W bulb in the taillight.
 
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