750sf low compression readings (was ignition question!)

iis_iis said:
As an aside, Bosch spark plug W22 in my experience would be the worst plug you can use. If it does start, it wont idle, absolutely no good reason to use Bosch plugs on a Laverda. On W22 plugs, 6 hours trying to get a new installed iis fitted 3c to start and idle, 3 new NGK plugs later, perfect. Others may have better experience, very cold plug the W22.

Other more pressing issues for this motor, seemed to happen all of a sudden this start idle issue, into a compression issue? HTH j
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Were they W2C Bosch plugs? As you say very cold and definitely not for a road triple, it might have been ok with W3 or W4. When Bosch changed from the old (eg W240T2) type designation to the single number, they also went opposite so that the higher the number was hotter, as with Champion. https://www.boschsparkplugs.net/boschs-numbering-system
 
Paul M you should know better, in order to hinge the motor forward you have to disconect the rear chain, otherwise it will be guitar string tight (G string! ye hay!) and the motor wont lower far enough for easy access.
CLEM
 
CLEMTOG said:
Paul M you should know better, in order to hinge the motor forward you have to disconect the rear chain, otherwise it will be guitar string tight (G string! ye hay!) and the motor wont lower far enough for easy access.
CLEM
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Done it a few times with the chain in situ Clem.
I'll update soon since I'll be whipping a head of in the next couple of weeks.

Paul
 
So much for sending it off for pro attention. Im going to do this myself. Despite my lockup not ideal I can do it.
Here’s the engine being prepped for removal. A lot of oil borking out of the left exhaust port.
All engine mount bolts loosened off ok.
I’m acquiring one of those small scissor lift things . Once I have that I can slowly tip the motor forward, remove head and barrels then tip the motor back, pop two more bolts back in to hold in place so I can wheel it all out of the way.
Observe also the carb insulators. They look ok but the o rings are hard and flat which clearly was a problem.
Onwards and upwards!!
IMG_4516.jpegIMG_4518.jpeg
 
Mr Vegetable Trousers said:
So much for sending it off for pro attention. Im going to do this myself. Despite my lockup not ideal I can do it.
Here’s the engine being prepped for removal. A lot of oil borking out of the left exhaust port.
All engine mount bolts loosened off ok.
I’m acquiring one of those small scissor lift things . Once I have that I can slowly tip the motor forward, remove head and barrels then tip the motor back, pop two more bolts back in to hold in place so I can wheel it all out of the way.
Observe also the carb insulators. They look ok but the o rings are hard and flat which clearly was a problem.
Onwards and upwards!!
View attachment 82455View attachment 82456
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Nothing particular about those O rings.
They're squashed flat obviously.
Paul
 
all this chain advise is just fannying around,

just take the bleeding thing off, always good to give a chain a bath anyway, lift the motor onto something at a comfortable height, why struggle? and dont stop me and Paul we might even get to the fisticuffs stage, especially while he is re-couperating, I at least might stand a chance!

CLEM
 
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CLEMTOG said:
all this chain advise is just fannying around,

just take the bleeding thing off, always good to give a chain a bath anyway, lift the motor onto something at a confortable height, why struggle? and dont stop me and Paul we might even get to the fisticuffs stage, especially while he is re-couperating, I at least might stand a chance!

CLEM
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I can't kick you with my left foot, or punch you with my left hand.
I still have most of my teeth.

Paul
 
Mr Vegetable Trousers said:
82385
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Am wondering where the rest of the TR5/T is...?
 
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