Adjusting gear box selector for easy neutral?

The main failing of the transmission is that it's a sleeve gearbox and that inherently means it is weak, or at least weaker than a similarly sized two shaft box. Bending and breaking main shafts, loose/wearing/seizing bushed sleeve gears, main shafts damaged by needle sleeve gears all come back to the general design.  Fortunately they were originally sufficiently sized and well manufactured that they lasted extremely well under normal use relative to their peers.
 
Tim's 3C had a sleeve final drive for a (very) short time. The sleeve of his jumper got caught in the chain, which dragged the whole junper in and chewed it up. Fortunately he wasn't wearing it at the time. The sleeve was dangling out of his paniers which he had forgotten to fasten closed.
 
Dellortoman said:
Tim's 3C had a sleeve final drive for a (very) short time. The sleeve of his jumper got caught in the chain, which dragged the whole junper in and chewed it up. Fortunately he wasn't wearing it at the time. The sleeve was dangling out of his paniers which he had forgotten to fasten closed.
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That happened to a girlfriends coat on my first bike in the 70s only she was in the coat at the time. We were both very lucky, all that was left of the coat was a sleeve and she was still in it and on the bike!
Paul
 
Well, I stand by my comment on the clutch being a weak point.
The soft alloy gets easily notched by the plates making disengagement difficult. As an aside, I presume that Laverda abandoned the early all steel clutch because of heat issues.
The clutch plates stick if you use the wrong oil and the bronze bush of the 750 clutch disappears if you look at it too hard.
Paul
 
  must be doing something wrong - I never ever see any of my clutches once I've fitted them - on both my twins and triples.

    I use Uk made springs that are to the SFC 750 spec - (part No 50 120 019). New Adige or Surflex plates and drill multiple holes through all layers of the unit. Clutches are cable operated with extended lever at g/box end. operation is smooth and clutch bites like an angry alligator - always got me away at front of the pack. I may get some more springs made as I will put them in my 860 when it's done. Have bought a Yamaha R1 adjustable span clutch lever and cable - (?15 on e-bay) that will help as I don't have large hands! - regards - Phil
 
phil37 said:
  must be doing something wrong - I never ever see any of my clutches once I've fitted them - on both my twins and triples.

    I use Uk made springs that are to the SFC 750 spec - (part No 50 120 019). New Adige or Surflex plates and drill multiple holes through all layers of the unit. Clutches are cable operated with extended lever at g/box end. operation is smooth and clutch bites like an angry alligator - always got me away at front of the pack. I may get some more springs made as I will put them in my 860 when it's done. Have bought a Yamaha R1 adjustable span clutch lever and cable - (?15 on e-bay) that will help as I don't have large hands! - regards - Phil
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Totally agree - what are you people doing to your bikes that you come to the conclusion that the clutch is weak???  :-\  My speedo hasn't operated since 1977 and it read 65,000 miles when it last ran. So I've covered probably 200,000+?km on my (much modified) SF1 and the clutch has never been an issue.

Have had the usual broken mainshaft in the worn 5th gear bush routine, but apart from several sets of clutch plates and cush rubbers (only once if I remember correctly ... overdue during this rebuild, no doubt!) ... trouble free clutching.
 
Grant said:
Maybe planned maintenance versus breakdown maintenance is key here.
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A Laverda clutch has never left me by the side of the road.
Twice, my triple you have now sold on Grant, dumped its clutch fluid on the garage floor overnight leading me to find an alternative transport to get to work in the morning.

This forum is awash with oil related clutch issues and sticking plates.
The bronze bush in the 750 clutch does tend not only to wear pretty quick but to break loose from its alloy housing.

Paul
 
If it dumped it's fluid twice then there were deeper problems to fix than fitting a new seal.
There were many more issues with that bike when I went through it. It had no maintenance, planned or otherwise.

Oil-related sticking plates does not make the clutch the weak point of Laverdas. To me that is an issue with modern oils.
In Spain I no avoid Repsol oils and my clutch plate sticking days are over.
 
phil37 said:
  must be doing something wrong - I never ever see any of my clutches once I've fitted them - on both my twins and triples.

    I use Uk made springs that are to the SFC 750 spec - (part No 50 120 019). New Adige or Surflex plates and drill multiple holes through all layers of the unit. Clutches are cable operated with extended lever at g/box end. operation is smooth and clutch bites like an angry alligator - always got me away at front of the pack. I may get some more springs made as I will put them in my 860 when it's done. Have bought a Yamaha R1 adjustable span clutch lever and cable - (?15 on e-bay) that will help as I don't have large hands! - regards - Phil
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Hi Phil

you drill multiple holes through all layers of the unit?

what are you drilling? The friction plates and the steel plates? A little more detail please!

Paul LeClair

 
Hi Paul - think these have been up a few times before! - regards - Phil
 

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Grant said:
If it dumped it's fluid twice then there were deeper problems to fix than fitting a new seal.
There were many more issues with that bike when I went through it. It had no maintenance, planned or otherwise.

Oil-related sticking plates does not make the clutch the weak point of Laverdas. To me that is an issue with modern oils.
In Spain I no avoid Repsol oils and my clutch plate sticking days are over.
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Well, the bike was stored 20 years which is in effect a lack of planned maintenance innit?
Paul
 
phil37 said:
Hi Paul - think these have been up a few times before! - regards - Phil
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Thanks Phil, you've given me something more to do today. A lightened clutch will match one of Red's light cranks nicely.

Now if only there was a way to ventilate the grooved portion of the drum to avoid fibre buildup in the grooves.....
 
Did the bent valves happen in storage then?
I really don't want to list everything but it was in very poor condition and I am sure it was like that when parked 20 years ago.
 
phil37 said:
Hi Paul - think these have been up a few times before! - regards - Phil
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Hi Phil, thanks!

Yes, I have seen those photos before, and I did than on my RGS, the clutch in my RGS is perforated in a similar fashion. It never crossed my mind to actually also drill the steel clutch plates and the fiber clutch discs. I am still wondering, did you drill holes in those as well? I did not on my RGS.

Paul LeClair
 
Success, mostly. On my 82 1200 Mirage Series I have my ignition wiring repaired, the ignition re timed using a degree wheel and TDC stop, and the bike is running well.

The clutch action is now much more even, no dragging whatsoever, much easier going into and out of gear, and I can find neutral most, but not all, of the time. Clutch lever action even feels lighter.

I am going to count this as a great result, it is so much better than it was, and I am gong to just ride it for the rest of the short riding season left. First day of fall officially tomorrow, we have already had several killing frosts, leaves on the trees are turning colour and falling.

thanks everyone for all the help and feedback, greatly appreciated.

Paul LeClair

 
Grant said:
Did the bent valves happen in storage then?
I really don't want to list everything but it was in very poor condition and I am sure it was like that when parked 20 years ago.
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Without doubt.
;)
Paul
 
GregT said:
Thanks Phil, you've given me something more to do today. A lightened clutch will match one of Red's light cranks nicely.

Now if only there was a way to ventilate the grooved portion of the drum to avoid fibre buildup in the grooves.....
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Greg,

At the inner end of the splines, deep inside the drum, you should find a groove in which solid residues can accumulate.  This is often full to the brim with muck, preventing further muck to drain off out of harms way.  Much like an over-filled oil slinger, a royal pita to clean out.  Reckon a couple of dozen radially drilled holes wouldn't hurt clutch plate movement or compromise the drums stability.  Just don't think the weight difference would justify the effort from a weight-saving point of view.

piet
 
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