Alloy deep clean

Dropped head, cylinder block, cases off at this place this morning. We'll see.
It looks like a one man operation and the man said that he'd try ultra sonics and if insufficient, soda blasting.
He thought that the head was painted. I had to show him a bit of clean casting near the gasket face.

I spent yesterday afternoon digging bits of molten carb spacer from between the fins on the head.
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The best solution Paul is Laser Cleaning. I have had all my Laverda motors done. It will give you a factory finish with no metal removal. It is extremely good on carbon, oil etc. Used widely on fire impacted items.

The below video demo’s a few different types of laser. We use the moving circle (as used on Audi head about 50sec’s in) as provides best finish, even power. There is no surface temp, all dirt/oxidisation etc. is vapourised and there is a large suction system around the lasered area normally. You use blue masking tape on anything you do not want lasered (see attached pic where tape was placed) – in fact you can place your hand under the laser while operating. There is no media so no cleanup and can be done to complete motors. Hope this helps.

 

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The best solution Paul is Laser Cleaning. I have had all my Laverda motors done. It will give you a factory finish with no metal removal. It is extremely good on carbon, oil etc. Used widely on fire impacted items.

The below video demo’s a few different types of laser. We use the moving circle (as used on Audi head about 50sec’s in) as provides best finish, even power. There is no surface temp, all dirt/oxidisation etc. is vapourised and there is a large suction system around the lasered area normally. You use blue masking tape on anything you do not want lasered (see attached pic where tape was placed) – in fact you can place your hand under the laser while operating. There is no media so no cleanup and can be done to complete motors. Hope this helps.

Thanks.
If my little Belgian company doesn't do the job, I'll look it up.
Paul
 
It's impressive. Two points I'd like to know. Current draw for one. Suitable for home workshop ?
And it's very apparent it generates a lot of potentially toxic fumes. They say a collection and filtration system is used. I didn't see any operators using a mask but I'd have thought it would be a sensible precaution.
 
It's impressive. Two points I'd like to know. Current draw for one. Suitable for home workshop ?
And it's very apparent it generates a lot of potentially toxic fumes. They say a collection and filtration system is used. I didn't see any operators using a mask but I'd have thought it would be a sensible precaution.
Reckon there’s a couple of shots of a vacuum nozzle in there at times.

I hope Paul gets it done, would love to see the results.

It’s the coolest thing I’ve seen in years. Although I think that I’d stay clear of pointing the thing where there’s metal holding my bones together.
 
It's impressive. Two points I'd like to know. Current draw for one. Suitable for home workshop ?
And it's very apparent it generates a lot of potentially toxic fumes. They say a collection and filtration system is used. I didn't see any operators using a mask but I'd have thought it would be a sensible precaution.
The devices are in the 5 diggit range, not sure you would want to spend that for home use... I have seen it working on rusty parts, too. Came out clean as new!

As Chris said, there are nozzles in many of the shots, sucking the fume away. Might be that that is not necessary for every application. Depends on what you remove... Paint f.e. can be very toxic, rust most probably wouldn't.
 
I assume that the correct filtration cartridge in a well fitted mask used in a well ventilated area should suffice. Outside with a big fan at your back ought to do it. I am sure the device maker has recommendations, although toxicity will depend on what you are disintegrating!

Like all electronic equipment, the price will drop over time. Often significantly and rapidly.
 
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