Atlas Questions

Thanks, Andy, needs as needs must. It's so simple it's only taken a month to sort, I am a slow learner. I just fitted the modified throttle stop, Brilent idea for the fix and executed by Chris Pritt and it works to a point. The extra arm does stop the rotation but at full left lock and the cable adjusted to the best possible routing and with both top and bottom adjusters backed off to the most it still manages to open the revs to 1600 instead of 1200 set and it only happening when as said at full left lock. The standard cable is just a tiny bit too short to stop this. So the muffler gets packed away from the tyre and I might WASTE, this really does piss me off to the max, another of my 60 days of allowed log book yearly riding on a FUCKEN 20 minute test ride around my block, the 6th WASTED log book day doing this testing this month. So stupid not to keep the 10k around your house maintenance ride clause in the latest Historic Log Book System. I bet no one in Authority cared one way or the other and when no one asked it just got deleted from the Paperwork in the new system. The chances of some Burocrate saying yes you can have 60 days to ride anytime you like BUT don't waste your time expecting to keep that maintenance bit as well. They wouldn't give a toss or probably had never heard of it. My pet hobby horse.
 
"So it’s as likely as not that the ‘over-revving’ Clem and I experienced was down to the throttle cable issue more than a sucking in air issue from the old inlet manifolds. Hopefully the issue will shortly be fully resolved and the bike will behave itself in the future. However, your analysis of the issue is without doubt of assistance to other Atlas owners suffering issues with the set up of the ‘car carb’ on their bike."

youre not trying to say that the fucked inlet rubbers were OK are you Andy? the carb butterflys were hard on the carb stop when I last saw it.
CLEM
 
I have rotated the handlebars slightly forward just to get access to the bolt on the bar clamp and that hasn't helped but if a 5mm rotation of the handlebar isn't possible with the std throttle cable that's pretty stupid. Anyway, it will probably get some 25mm bar risers so I am not leaning over like a hunchback while standing and with the hopefully new 40mm longer cables it should actually work properly then.
 
CLEMTOG said:
"So it’s as likely as not that the ‘over-revving’ Clem and I experienced was down to the throttle cable issue more than a sucking in air issue from the old inlet manifolds. Hopefully the issue will shortly be fully resolved and the bike will behave itself in the future. However, your analysis of the issue is without doubt of assistance to other Atlas owners suffering issues with the set up of the ‘car carb’ on their bike."

youre not trying to say that the fucked inlet rubbers were OK are you Andy? the carb butterflys were hard on the carb stop when I last saw it.
CLEM
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No!
 
The impossible-to-find gaskets turned up today. I had to destroy the gaskets that go between the rear of the carb and the metal tube connection to the airbox and no one had replacements including all the Webber parts people. I search the web for ages and luckily I found some at an exhaust shop that fitted great. So now the carb works at 97%, and the last tiny issue will be fixed with a new slightly longer throttle cable. I haven't run it past 80kph so more testing to do. Another couple of quick easy fixes and it will be ok to do some riding. I thought for 10 seconds about riding it to tonight's club meet but it's at a new Pub, I could probably dead recon my way there but it's still not a proven runner. I have no way to fit my GPS, I hate riding in traffic and at night so not happening.
 
The original gaskets I scrapped off in that spot were pretty thick, maybe 3mm. It was made out of a fibre board-like product. There was no heat transfer to worry about but it did need that thickness to get close enough to get the rubber air box hoses to clamp right. I have noticed the bike tends to flop its forks and handlebars strongly left when on the side stand. The forks are through the triples 15mm, is this fork position typical and do other Atlas,s have the same fork flop? I am curious to compare this with other Atlass. The upper fork tubes are heavily Knured, never seen that before. And just for Nick who was encouraging me at last Wednesday's club meet to do 10,000 posts on Atlas suspensions, that's coming soon. I can hardly wait. As a preview, I find it interesting that someone pushed the forks through the triples lowering the front 15mm and it's 16mm lower in the rear with 16mm too much rear sag and probably too soft a rear spring as well. Seat height is just about as high as I am comfortable with and once it stops losing rear travel with the rear tyre acting as a blocker I might be able to make some decisions on shock performance and ride height I can live with. That's even if I can find a shock that fits, it's a bit tight in there.
 
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One of the first things I noticed when I got it home from the dock was the tool bag bolted to the rear guard covered completely by the plate-style rear luggage rack. So I started looking at how this rack moves to get at the tool bag, there must be a trick, a hing, a pivot, something easy. Nope, it's bolted on so to get assess to the tools you need to carry a 6mm alan key and a 13mm spanner in your jacket, you must be kidding. So I have a cunning plan that replaces this with a bolt from underneath, a loctited 1/2nut so the bolt gets captured and a big hardened washer and a couple of Butterfly nuts so I won't need tools to get at the tools.
 
typical Moto Laverda on the Zane 750 they even provided a "keep" for the Allen key to get the covers off to then acces the tools
CLEM
 
Andy J said:
I think this only applied to the first owner. How many used bikes have you bought that still had the tool roll? 🤔
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My Atlas has the original tool pack.

To be fair: Even when the bike is used in the most extreme ways (Paris - Dakar?) you are never likely tp lose the tools...

They can just about be accessed with dexterity of small fingers pulling the zip around. Cable-tie loop to zipper tang makes this quite easy.
 
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OneThinBloke said:
My Atlas has the original tool pack.

To be fair: Even when the bike is used in the most extreme ways (Paris - Dakar?) you are never likely tp lose the tools...

They can just about be accessed with dexterity of small fingers pulling the zip around. Cable-tie loop to zipper tang makes this quite easy.
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Agreed James, and have you received my emails/messages about the cables?
 
I apparently have the big rear rack, I haven't seen another so maybe. Mine covers and overlaps the bag a lot. I finished fitting the multi-adjustable SW Motech Big Footpeg kit today. They make these for hundreds of different bikes specifically and so I took one of my footpeg mounts to the local distributor who found some that matched well enough. Expensive for sure but so they are so sexy I had to go there
https://sw-motech.com/en/products/ergonomics/footrests/
 
Good idea if you're doing a lot of standing on the pegs. My TY350 Yamaha has the original skinny pegs, and after a while of standing doing trials stuff, it feels like they're cutting your feet in half.
 
Just getting on and off cowboy style is much easier, or so I tell myself to justify the cost. The adjustability is pretty impressive in all 4 directions.
 
Vince said:
The original gaskets I scrapped off in that spot were pretty thick, maybe 3mm. It was made out of a fibre board-like product. There was no heat transfer to worry about but it did need that thickness to get close enough to get the rubber air box hoses to clamp right. I have noticed the bike tends to flop its forks and handlebars strongly left when on the side stand. The forks are through the triples 15mm, is this fork position typical and do other Atlas,s have the same fork flop? I am curious to compare this with other Atlass. The upper fork tubes are heavily Knured, never seen that before. And just for Nick who was encouraging me at last Wednesday's club meet to do 10,000 posts on Atlas suspensions, that's coming soon. I can hardly wait. As a preview, I find it interesting that someone pushed the forks through the triples lowering the front 15mm and it's 16mm lower in the rear with 16mm too much rear sag and probably too soft a rear spring as well. Seat height is just about as high as I am comfortable with and once it stops losing rear travel with the rear tyre acting as a blocker I might be able to make some decisions on shock performance and ride height I can live with. That's even if I can find a shock that fits, it's a bit tight in there.
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I’ve ridden a few dirt bikes, never race MX or Enduro, but is sag on a dirt bike that important?
 
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