By the time you get a key cut, it might have been cheaper to buy a new switch.
Paul
Atlas Questions
- Thread starter Vince
- Start date
Paul
Probably true but finding new Jap parts is a minefield I could avoid. So I have a new key now BUT I expect this replacement Ignition Switch will connect into the harness via a 4-wire plastic plug so I expect I will need to attach those 4 bear wires with those tiny copper spear-like gadgets that click into the back of its original Molex type plug. Can you buy those separately and I guess you need some kind of specialised crimping tool. Maybe I could get a local Auto Sparky to do this as a cash job. Dont see the point of buying a Mega buck tool for 4 wires.
chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
I’ve used boat ignition switches, on bikes and ride on mowers. Brass bodies, so no rust and a nice solid mechanism.
Just remember that you’re on a bike though. When pulled up by the cops for doing a right hand turn, where it isn’t permitted, “I was tacking starboard officer” won’t cut it.
Just remember that you’re on a bike though. When pulled up by the cops for doing a right hand turn, where it isn’t permitted, “I was tacking starboard officer” won’t cut it.
The original Atlas Ignition switch, all plastic and prone to falling apart has an inbuilt steering lock. The XJ900 Yamaha all-steel switch recommended replacement from The Atlas Owners website also with a built-in steering lock fits very closely in the same spot after 5 minutes of filing to adjust its mounting holes and is much more bulletproof. All I expect it will need is to attach the original 4-pin plastic wiring connection and hopefully return it to a reliable ignition connection, If I can find the best way to swap THAT ORIGINAL PLUG off the Atlas to the bear separate wires on that Yamaha switch. I expect those connectors will be bearly bigger than the wires and crimp on and then snap into the back of the plug with a little ear that holds them in.
Dellortoman
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- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
If I follow your description correctly, you have a Yamaha ignition switch with 4 wire tails hanging out of it, and you want to use the existing 4-pin plug on the Laverda wiring harness.
Getting the crimped connectors out of your existing 4-pin plug on the Laverda wiring harness, sourcing new terminals (and a crimping tool), crimping them on and inserting them into the plug is doing it the hard way.
The neatest solution would be to cut the fucked Laverda ignition switch off the harness as close to the switch as possible, leaving as much wire coming out of the 4-pin plug as you can. Then unscrew the back cover off the Yamaha switch, un-solder the wires from it and replace them with the wire tails of the Laverda plug. Reassemble the switch and you have a nice tidy job with the original wire colours.
If you want really simple, but not quite as neat, cut the old switch off as described above. Then splice the wires from the plug onto the wire tails hanging out of the Yamaha switch. No crimping or switch disassembly required, just a bit of solder and heat-shrink. Who's going to be assessing your job for neatness anyway? Cover the whole lot with tape or heat shrink and it'll look fine. Soldered joints in wires are very reliable.
Getting the crimped connectors out of your existing 4-pin plug on the Laverda wiring harness, sourcing new terminals (and a crimping tool), crimping them on and inserting them into the plug is doing it the hard way.
The neatest solution would be to cut the fucked Laverda ignition switch off the harness as close to the switch as possible, leaving as much wire coming out of the 4-pin plug as you can. Then unscrew the back cover off the Yamaha switch, un-solder the wires from it and replace them with the wire tails of the Laverda plug. Reassemble the switch and you have a nice tidy job with the original wire colours.
If you want really simple, but not quite as neat, cut the old switch off as described above. Then splice the wires from the plug onto the wire tails hanging out of the Yamaha switch. No crimping or switch disassembly required, just a bit of solder and heat-shrink. Who's going to be assessing your job for neatness anyway? Cover the whole lot with tape or heat shrink and it'll look fine. Soldered joints in wires are very reliable.
chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
Or take the two switches to Jon, along with a case of his preferred.
News re my Orange Gaming chair.
Right and wrong, they are
made in Western Sydney and it didn't last 6 months. Lately, it was wobbling about like crazy so I thought something structural had come loose but I couldn't find anything loose. And then I noticed the issue, the central gas strut connects to the chair base in the stupidest way possible. The base is plastic with a hole that takes the strut and that strut has a SLIGHT WEDGE in its end that is supposed to stop the strut from moving down. What had happened was the strut had moved right through the base and was now 20mm lower than the caster wheels. So stupid, all it needed was a shoulder instead of a wedge. So I used a big G cramp to pull it back to where it should be and fitted a 50mm exhaust U clamp on the strut to stop it from sinking through. One day I might actually buy something that doesn't need MODIFYING to work right.
Andy J
Hero member
- Location
- Isle of Man
I’d have sent it back and either asked for a replacement or my money back...
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
If you think you're too heavy for the chair, then I guess a new chair base isn't going to do any better. If it were mine (and I'm not much lighter than you) I'd modify it to increase its load rating. Is the outer tube of the central support actually the gas strut cylinder? On the office chair that I'm sitting on now, the strut is inside a larger diameter tube, so the tube can be separated from the strut. That would give you the opportunity to slide a sleeve over the tube to create a shoulder and weld it in position. That would look a whole lot neater and be more secure than an exhaust clamp around it. If you can separate the tube from the rest of the chair, take it to an engineering workshop and explain what you need. It's a simple job and wouldn't cost much.
Thats what it needs, but I am reluctant to dig into that shaft too much. It's polished so maybe it is the gas strut. So far the U clamp is working well, I also intend to make a prop that mounts off the centre of the plastic base and down to the carpet, a pipe that goes around the shaft and caps off at its bottom with a large plastic curved foot bolted to mimic the size of the casters. That would really reduce the load directly off that base. As usual, I am going well overboard for a fix.
Cosi
Hero member
- Location
- Kingscliff
I’d change the bearings in the castors as well, made a world of difference to mine, glides across the office freely now
motoddrob
Hero member
- Location
- S/W Australia
I replaced the castors with pneumatic wheels so they don't get jammed on the toast crumbs when rolling on the office floor.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
I fitted Dunlop K81s to mine ... better traction. Sorry Vince! 
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
The chair itself is a bit of an overboard statement anyway. It looks like something out of a Formula 1 car. Do you really need a headrest on a computer chair? You must get into some pretty animated typing if you need those wings to hold you in your chair.
chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
There’s a much easier fix Rob.
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Following on from a 750 twin jetting question, Nothing to do with that bike but I have a very serious jetting issue with my Atlas and its very different 40mm twin choke Delordo, it comes std with 168 main jets and runs pretty well as is but is a bit whiffy on start up in my shed, smells rich. I really respected Tuner who has done a lot of Atlas tuning-recommended 142 mains. His other recommendation was to delete the Aselorator pump from working and for the first time ever that helped a lot. That main jet change is pretty crazy and scares me a hell of a lot. It's a fair bit of work swooping mains and I guess that's best checked on a Dyno. Comments Please. 168 to 142 is a massive change.
I am about to do some fiddling with the ignition key switch and Regulator and I have a question referring to a wiring connection to something called a mass, whatever that is. This is a direct quote from the Atlas Forum, Regulator- Sometimes the mass contact fails. Replace it by a separate cable connected to the battery. I think the penny just dropped, mass probably refers to EARTH connection. It's spelt with no capital letter, maybe an Italian thing?