Bare Naked SFC1000

Getting close to firing up the beast.  Wolfgang sent me some shims that should be here today or tomorrow so I can adjust the valves and button her up. 

So, while waiting I'm wiring her and looking at cosmetic stuff.

Grips don't look right.  Should there be such a huge gap between the throttle grip and the switchgear?

P1010879_zpsd9cda734.jpg
 
OH, and one more thing...

What does the left green light on the instrument cluster do?  Mine is not connected to anything.  Two neutrals?  Owner's manual does not cover SFC cluster, just RGS, RGA, Executive and Corsa.
 
I think its also not connected on mine. You could use it for what ever you like. Low beam comes to mind f.e., but then you can see if lights are on when the instrument illumination is on...

Heated grips?  :D

and yes, the top of the forks do look like this on this particular fork, as it is the race version...  ;)

for the grips, you need to push them more in and make the rubber seat over the plastic. there is a gap, yes, to avoid the rubber causes friction at the switch unit. However, that gap is to big.
 
Rockitdoc said:
OH, and one more thing...

What does the left green light on the instrument cluster do?  Mine is not connected to anything.  Two neutrals?  Owner's manual does not cover SFC cluster, just RGS, RGA, Executive and Corsa.
Click to expand...

Isn't the other green light for false neutrals?

                                                              Dave
 
Yeah!  The new shims arrived today from Wolfgang, so tomorrow is valve adjustment day.  I thought I'd have the wiring done by now, but, discovered the plug going from the harness to the taillights was reversed from the new harness to the old pigtail.  So, I had to de-wire the pigtail and put the wires to the taillights and rear turn signals in the right order.  No biggie, but just another pita delay.  Anyway, the old pigtail was kinda frayed, so would have had to re-wire anyway.
 
Back to the spacer between the two front engine mounts. I measured the spacer that came with the mounts, and it's 3mm thick. No way will it go between the front mounts. I tried prizing them apart but could barely get any gap at all between then, so just bolted them up as they are. So I have no idea what the 3mm washer is for. None of the other mounts look like they need a spacer either.

Cam
 
So, engine is back together.  Cam chain on....used the 'remove cam chain entirely then put it back in after head is on' technique.  I found it easier.  Thanks Red, et al for describing the process.

Question is whether the cam chain (a new one, BTW) is too tight.  Checked chain on crank sprocket (it is).  Center piston at TDC as indicated in shop manual, and I get about 4 mm movement in chain between the sprockets if I push pretty hard (that's me in photo pushing pretty hard).

P1020182_zps6c3719a4.jpg
 
Terry Dymond said:
Manual says you should have 10 mm total up-down movement.
Click to expand...
I've got 8 mm.  Pretty tight, but it's on the crank sprocket, so, other than being the wrong chain (which I doubt cuz Wolfgang sent it) maybe it just needs to be run in a bit and rechecked?  Worrisome, but don't know what could be wrong, if anything.  Cams are seated nicely.  Everything tight against the head.
 
Its quite hard to check the chain at TDC as the cams are being loaded by the valve springs. Turn the engine over till you find the spot where there is no load. Then check your free play.
Probably get shot down but thats the way I checked it.    (bolt)
 
I checked my 120 cam chain a while ago, I also got about 8mm at a push while checking at various positions.
The bike has done 1000's of kilometers since the last overhaul.

 
Dellortoman said:
I'm here to shoot you down.  ;)
You won't find a spot on a 120? engine where all valve springs are unloaded
Click to expand...

Hae ho!!  ::)
Didn't think it would take long.
Whot evva!!  :P
 
Smiddy said:
Hae ho!!  ::)
Didn't think it would take long.
Whot evva!!  :P
Click to expand...

Scott, I can't help but think you are making this difficult for yourself and not helped by the number of unfortunate problems you've encountered along the way, you probably start looking for problems that aren't there. If you turn the crank over the tension applied to the cam chain from the camshaft lobe/valve spring reactions will vary depending on the camshaft lobe positions and consequently you will find the applied force to achieve a +/- 5mm displacement will vary. Just use thumb and forefinger at one point on the chain in the mid span position to check the movement. The way it looks from your photo you are trying to push down on a small length of chain with two fingers - you're not going to get the correct measurement this way. I've recently fitted the IWIS chain on 2 120 engines and had no issue achieving the required adjustment measurements. When you get the engine running there should be no whining noises from the chain, if there is you know it is too tight and need to investigate further.

HTH

Ian
 
I look at it this way.
When I fit a new cam chain I don't expect to have to yank up the tensioner to achieve the correct slack in the chain.
I exclusively use the quality cam chains Andy supplies and they usually need the adjuster backed right off.
Once the bike is running and settles down then a light nip on the adjuster bolt sorts things out.
 
Laverdian said:
Scott, I can't help but think you are making this difficult for yourself and not helped by the number of unfortunate problems you've encountered along the way, you probably start looking for problems that aren't there.

When you get the engine running there should be no whining noises from the chain, if there is you know it is too tight and need to investigate further.

HTH

Ian
Click to expand...

1st par:  True, enough.
Last par:  You think I will get this thing running! Thank you, Optimist.  :D
 
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