carb float setting squareslide

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Evan

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Texas
The Green Bk has the diagram 23.5 to 24.5 mil. Obviously this distance is from the bottom of the float to the carb body. Unless there is something I need to know... See pic. The needle would be fully seated @ this position. One of my carbs is off a few mils. Should I take the pin holding the float out to set the needle flange to 24 mils.
And then I baked my cylinder liners @ 450F for 30 minutes. Liners did not slide out nor did they budge. I gave it hard kaiyays w/ a hammer on wood. No go...Should I use a Kiln like they bake clay with @ a much higher temp?
 

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Evan said:
The Green Bk has the diagram 23.5 to 24.5 mil. Obviously this distance is from the bottom of the float to the carb body. Unless there is something I need to know... See pic. The needle would be fully seated @ this position. One of my carbs is off a few mils. Should I take the pin holding the float out to set the needle flange to 24 mils.
And then I baked my cylinder liners @ 450F for 30 minutes. Liners did not slide out nor did they budge. I gave it hard kaiyays w/ a hammer on wood. No go...Should I use a Kiln like they bake clay with @ a much higher temp?
Click to expand...
Just bend the tabs on which the floats are attached. Takes about 25 seconds. Go for 24mm, or as close as you can get. Having 1mm difference between them sort of defeats the whole exercise.

Don't go any higher, 400°F would be my limit, but do leave it in the oven a little longer. Failing that, support the hot cylinder on a couple of wooden blocks with ample space beneath the liners so they can fall out and spray the inside of the liners with cold water. If they still do not budge, you will need brute force. Make yourself an alloy or wooden plug with a brim that fits into the liner base and bash/press out the liner while the barrel is hot.

If the liner requires this much force to be removed, chances are you will find a thick layer of carbon on the liner. This is a result of oil seeping between the liner and barrel and is often a cause of piston over-heating or even siezing.

piet

piet
 
And I forgot about the new air filter. I bought a new air fil. It is foam. Not the brown fiber that the originals had. Would the 24 mil float setting on the square slide carbs be the same for the foam fil be the same? I'll post Air Filter pics later...
 
If them VHB 30A's came originally open mouth or with cones - GOOD LUCK using any sort of mouth restriction - I tried for years and never did get them VHB 30A's to respond correctly with any sort of breather or cones after I went to 2 into 1 headers to save weight. And yes tried all kinds of jet sizes and slide needle profiles to no avail - However, them open mouth VHB 30A's ran like gang busters - Just changed oil more often.

If I were to use a breather or cones my 70 750SF would probably have responded to PMF 32's or 34's.
 
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Evan said:
And I forgot about the new air filter. I bought a new air fil. It is foam. Not the brown fiber that the originals had. Would the 24 mil float setting on the square slide carbs be the same for the foam fil be the same? I'll post Air Filter pics later...
Click to expand...
Float heights have nothing to do with air flow into the carbs.
If your filter is too restrictive, you'll have to play with jets and needle height.

As Ron points out, they work fine without a filter.

Paul
 
About the most RPM I could get with my stock 70 750SF with factory cones and stock Dual Heavy DMC pipes was about 7200 rpm. After installing 2 in 1 Light Slater brothers headers and increasing the main jets from 25 to 32's and removing the Velocity stacks I was hitting 7800 rpm+, save I blow the engine - Them open mouth VHB 30A's can be competitive and very quick responsive carb.

Gotta love the fuel stand off vapor and smell when bleeping the engine at stop ;o)
 
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