Ceriani 38mm

Tippie

Tippie

Hero member
Location
Dr?bak, Norway
I am looking for stanchions and sliders - or just a LH slider for 38mm Ceriani for my SF2.
Also, if anyone knows a good place to buy stanchions in Europe. Stanchion length is 595mm.
 
Stanchions from a triple in an SF2 can be practical.

Marnix
 

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New stanchions have a slightly smaller
inner diameter than the orIginal ones.
So the parts that go in from the bottom
(and the piston-like aluminium part on the far left)
have to be grinded down a bit.
 

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Ernesto said:
New stanchions have a slightly smaller
inner diameter than the orIginal ones.
So the parts that go in from the bottom
(and the piston-like aluminium part on the far left)
have to be grinded down a bit.
Click to expand...
Well that is a bastard and was what I was going to check before ordering the Tarozzi ones. It is far easier to buy from SteinD than from the USA. However my original ones have very small dings in them, which I had thought could have been filled and rechromed, however that would require sending them out of the country, and there is very slight bending in both of them. The Racetech springs jammed inside them at these dings, as there is now obviously very little clearance, I managed to prise out one spring, but the other is really tight and my hook isn't able to get it out, will need some serious persuasion, maybe even destroy the stanchion (edit: I just got it out, a bit more muscle and out it came).
Racetech have stanchions in 570, original SF2/3 length, I contacted them asking about the length of the Ducati 860 ones they list (which he informs me are 605mm). My 595mm ones are what were supplied to me in 1976 from Stanco when I hit a car that turned in front of me in Darwin and I demanded and got a complete front end from the cars insurance, so Keesie sent me one from a triple. My favourite handlebar is clip-ons on top, so the longer ones are perfect for me as they won't require my alloy extensions. The Racetech ones for SF are not in their online catalogue under bike search, SF does not show in the Laverda models at all, so I was very surprised when he gave me the part number.
FTNK 0050557
FORK TUBE CHROME-RSU 38x570mm 32mm ID 33.5x1.25mm Cap Threads
OE# 16790501
Sold Each/per tube: $183.25 each/per tube, for pair order QTY 2. Tubes are in stock at Race Tech.
I think that I will go for the longer ones and have clips on top. I will measure the spring diameter first but hopefully RT springs fit their own stanchions.
Now "all" I have to do is get the ding in the slider fixed, the very top where the seal goes is bent in and cracked so I will see if it can be built up with laser weld or some such and somehow mounted in a lathe and re-machined.
Isn't it fun having a little fall on the road? I am glad it is the bike getting operated on and not me though.
Thanks everyone for your input.
 
Last edited:
It's worth straightening your existing stanchions. The spring binding problem will likely go away once they've been straightened. Assuming the bend is in the usual spot just below the lower triple clamp, it won't affect the damper rod mechanism.

I had the same problem with a Japanese bike many years ago (T-boned a car). The worst leg was bent about 8° and no amount of persuasion could get the spring out. I thought it was destined for the rubbish dump, but I took it to an engineering workshop that did a lot of bike-related stuff. The bloke there said it would probably straighten OK so I left it with him. It did straighten OK and the spring simply fell out during the process. The forks were reassembled and worked fine. They were actually better than they were before I crashed. I suspect there was a slight bend in one or both legs when I bought the bike.
 
My fork innards all fitted into the Steine Dinse supplied stanchions without modification. I did buy two new damper pistons from Bevelheaven though and one of those had to be machined down.
 
martymoose said:
So if the modern replacement stauntions have a smaller ID, how does this affect the piston on the damper rod? Do you have to machine it down?
Click to expand...
Sometimes you have to machine the pistons down in their original fork legs because that die-cast shit they're made of expands. So my guess is that they'd be very unlikely to fit in a smaller ID tube without machining.
 
Tippie said:
Now "all" I have to do is get the ding in the slider fixed, the very top where the seal goes is bent in and cracked so I will see if it can be built up with laser weld or some such and somehow mounted in a lathe and re-machined.
Click to expand...
I had similar damage on an M1R slider which got pulled out of my hands on a buffing wheel. The one and only time it's ever happened, got my attention! :D Of course it impacted on the most fragile part, even thinner on an M1R, bent and cracked as you describe.
It welded up fine with just normal TIG but yeah I had to make a fixture to then hold it in a small lathe and bore out the seal area again. I think I made a 38mm mandrel which bolted onto the slider at the bottom, held that in a normal chuck and steadied the bottom end with the tailstock, then made up a back to front face grooving tool to recut the seal bore (cutting away from the chuck). Still remember it was a PITA! :D Quality shed time.
 
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