Checking my HKZ ignition

[fast_eddie]

I have copied the below from the laverdamania page. I have some questions as I am currently investigating my backfire on start and sooty plug issues. Im pretty sure I will end up buying a new ignition / charge system from red, but while I work out how to explain the cost to the wife im doing a bit of analysis.


1978 Laverda Tripple 1200
BOSCH HKZ ignition


- Check the ignition coils: Disconnect the black wire (bikes before the end of 1973) or the red wire (bikes after 1973) from the
junction box under the tank. Connect an ohmmeter tothis wire and to earth. Resistance should be of 250 to 400 ohms. If not,
change the coil.

I have done this and the reading is 280 ohms, quite low, is this bad?

- Check the pick-ups: For bikes before the end of 1973, disconnect one of the violet wires from the junction box under the tank.
Connect an ohmmeter to this wire and to earth. Resistance should be less of 100 ohms. Check the other violet wire. If resistance
is higher than 100 ohms, change the stator. For bikes after 1973, disconnect the two wires coming from each pick-up. Connect an
ohmmeter to these wires. Resistance should be less than 100 ohms. If not, change the stator.

What does it mean each pick up? The coils? I dont have violet wires, from my picture which ones is it pls?

- Checking the original charging system (1000)
- Disconnect the yellow/black and the yellow wires from the junction box under the tank (two yellow/black wires for bikes before the
end of 1973). Connect an ohmeter, resistance should be very low. If there is no resistance or, at the contrary, a very high resistance,
change both charging and lighting coils.

Looks like I have yellow/black and yellow next to the red wire at the end. Will check this tomorrow. Just started raining.

- Checking the Bosch rectifier
- Disconnect the two red wires and the earth wire on the rectifier. Connect an ohmmeter (+ and -) successively to the two positive
and to the negative, resistance should be very low. Reversing the ohmmeter connections, resistance should be infinite. If not, replace
the rectifier.

I think I can manage this one.

Has anyone produced a colour wiring diagram for this era?

Many thanks for your help.

Ed

 

[sfcpiet]

Ed,

Your pick-ups are the white and white/black, and the white/red and white/red/black wires respectively.  The four LH wires in your pic.  The black marked wires denote ground connection.

The yellow and yellow/black are from the charging coils and go to the rectifier (or regulator if you have one).  Check charge current at rectifier/regulator, red wire to battery.

Stop fucking around with the HKZ, even if still sort of works, you will probably find that at least one of the channels is stuck in either full retard or full advance, most are.  A waste of time and effort.  Far better to install any of the aftermarket iginitions and open a cold one when your finished.  You'll be glad you did!

piet

 

[fast_eddie]

I hear you mate I really do. Thanks for the wiring info.

Just been through another set of plugs in less than a 100km. Black as the ace of.

 

[sfcpiet]

Reckon you might be looking at the jetting as well...

General condition of the carbs??  Slides, needle jets, needles as well as linkage shafts and bushes are prone to wear.  You'll probably keep swapping plug after plug till these issues have been looked after.

piet

 

[Paul Marx]

Are you using any sort of fuel additive?
If so, try without.
Paul

 

[fast_eddie]

There is no fuel additive apart from a cage full of lead in the tank.

The main jets are slightly bigger, I am unsure of the size I will report back. The PO installed bigger mains, idle jets and removed the air filter. I put the idle jets back to standard size. I had the carbs balanced and tuned at Motocyclio in Sydney. The mixture screws are approx 1 turn outwards.

I would not think this is the problem as even at idle it fouls the plugs very quickly. I did a lot of reading last night saying the old ignition is not great at idle (on choke) and will foul the plugs quickly. You need to get it off the choke and riding as soon as possible. Perhaps this is my problem. I need to manage the bike better. Get it off the choke as quickly as possible and hold it at say 2-3k revs while it warms up.

Checking float hieghts is also on my  list.

So is upgrading the ignition etc when I have the cash.

Cheers Ed

 

[sfcpiet]

There is no fuel additive apart from a cage full of lead in the tank.

Joke of the day?? 

piet

 

[fast_eddie]

No joke, PO told me it was instead of having to use lead replacement additive.

Small cage with lead in it, mixes with fuel to make leaded fuel.

Ed

 

[Jota1981]

Ive had the IIS in mine for maybe 3 years now.... 81 Jota. Seriously makes a huge improvement to starting and idling. My jetting though I've had to lower over the years. Standard main was 145 (?) ... now running 130 something. Your problem is jetting IMO.
Steve

 

[Dellortoman]

No joke, PO told me it was instead of having to use lead replacement additive.

Small cage with lead in it, mixes with fuel to make leaded fuel.

Ed

PO wasn't a chemist then. Neither am I, but at least I know the difference between metallic lead and tetraethyl lead.
Chuck the lead away. You're carrying ballast around.

Cheers,
Cam

 

[bazzee]

No joke, PO told me it was instead of having to use lead replacement additive.

Small cage with lead in it, mixes with fuel to make leaded fuel.

Ed

PO wasn't a chemist then. Neither am I, but at least I know the difference between metallic lead and tetraethyl lead.
Chuck the lead away. You're carrying ballast around.

Cheers,
Cam

...and then we will call you un-lead Ed. 

bazzee

 

[fast_eddie]

You guys!



Apparently you need a left handed screw driver to remove the leaded cage.

 

[Dellortoman]

Seriously though, Ed. Metallic lead is chemically quite stable. It's not soluble in gasoline or ethanol. So if it's not getting into the fuel then it's doing absolutely nothing for your engine. On the other hand, it's probably not doing any harm other than adding weight to the tank.

Your Laverda will run fine on unleaded fuel - that's what it's running on the whole time you've had lead in the tank!

Putting lumps of lead in the fuel tank is about as sensible as swallowing ball bearings to fix an iron deficiency.

Cheers,
Cam

 

[Cosi]

Putting lumps of lead in the fuel tank is about as sensible as swallowing ball bearings to fix an iron deficiency.

Cheers,
Cam

and you are a doctor i pressume giving out that sort of advice 

 

[Dellortoman]

Sure I'm a doctor Cosi. I have a PhD in bovine excreta.

 

[fast_eddie]

I dont reckon this is helping my situation.

Short term I will replace plugs / ht leads (copper).

Longer term spoken to Mr Bregazane who im lining up to install new red / sachs ignition.

 

[MotoV]

Longer term spoken to Mr Bregazane who im lining up to install new red / sachs ignition.

+1