Circumnavigation of Oz

When I lowered the rear sets on my 3C , 30mm ,I just added an 8mm alloy plate over the rear set mount and drilled another mounting hole lower. It just needs at least 2 fixing points to stop it from rotating or a snug fit against the frame, I wouldn't use the engine as a brace. If I was doing very long straight roads for mega hours, and I will get shit for this, even though plenty of GS BMWs run them, I would be looking at mounting a set of fold-up Hwy Pegs maybe off a set of crash bars. That's the only way my knees and hips would handle that torture. You already have that Air Hawk seat bladder. Marty have a look on Ebay, you might be able to adapt something here. Or hit the wreakers and weld something up,

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martymoose said:
If I machine down the open ender, and drill a hole for the through bolt, what’s stopping it moving sideways, and how do I apply clamping pressure to the spline.
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Why not get a second lever, cut down the spline faces, one down to almost the bolt hole the other get rid of bolt hole. Fit the levers in the required positions on the spline, mark and weld them together then cut in the relief area for clamping, hit it with spray gal and Bobs ya uncle and fannies ya aunt.
 
Marty, I'd be looking at pivoting the heel-toe lever as close to the peg centre as poss. That would create a better angle between foot and lever. As it is your foot is working at a very acute angle on upshifts. I'd also use a longer section lever on the spline (I cut down and reprofiled a broken SF or triple gear lever for my 2nd pair of rearsets). Then you can fashion the heel-toe setup out of steel or alloy, depending on your access to welding.. Maybe a pivot shaft welded onto the inside of the footpeg, next to the rubber?
 
If you can get hold of an SF3 crossover type footrest bracket, the lever pivots on the peg itself in the same way as with rearsets, and with a collar and bronze bush in the lever, and the peg position is the same as the original SF1/2 type. These give much more room for options. Original SF3 levers are also light steel, easy to modify.
 
martymoose said:
No centre stand Cam but there is a side stand. How about an engineering solution from Tassie? Can’t take any alloy away from the original lever.
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Solution for what? Centre stand or the heel-toe shifter? Either way it's a bit hard to do a custom job without having access to the bike.

I agree with Quentin. A heel-toe shifter should pivot as close to the footrest position as possible, so your foot and the lever pivot on the same centre. I understand that may not be easy to achieve with the current setup, although you appear to have it pretty close.

As I understand the problem (and please correct me if I'm wrong), the present lever position is OK for your foot, but you have insufficient leverage to easily change gear.

The solution seems simple. You need more leverage. All you need to do is modify the linkage. Have a look at the photo below. If you arrange the lever arm and link rod so they lie roughly along the yellow lines, that should roughly double the leverage. Obviously the lever will move further, but you can't avoid that whatever solution you adopt. A decrease in force means an increase in travel. If you don't know how far to extend the splined lever arm, take it further than you think you'll need and drill a series of several holes that you can use to attach the link rod. You can then try it and adjust it to suit.

It's best to keep the angle between the splined lever arm and link rod as close to 90° as you can. But it doesn't matter that the angle between the foot lever and link arm isn't 90°. In fact, the further you depart from 90° at that joint, the easier the foot pressure will be.
 

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martymoose said:
First start but posting a video didn’t work. Bummer.
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Think you posted as an attachment instead of a video. Click on the three dots to the right of the usual message edit window to open up extra options. One has the movie camera icon - with the text insert video when you hover over it
 
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