Clutch arm stops on outercase

With an aftermarket extended clutch arm you cannot be sure of its shape, it could simply once assembled be too wide for the slot cut into the case. If your pushrod extends the correct amount out of the gearbox shaft and the ball and pivot are correct then you can either grind a bit off the lever arm where it hits the case or extremely carefully relieve the lower part at the pivot, where even a millimeter will have a big effect at the top of the lever. If you haven't filled it with oil yet you can loosen the inner cover to see just how much it is pushing the the clutch when tightened. I have seen home made extended levers that required quite a bit of modifying to get to work properly. On my bikes I simply added some extra length to the original arm and cut the slot through to the hole.
 
Looking at those pics (front sprocket pic) it appears the pushrod is protruding too far so when tightening cover it would be pushing on the rods.
Rods too long?
 
I got greedy when I made my arm, thinking more must be better; it wasn't. I forget whose professional kit I ended up buying, but it worked just fine. You need to find the sweet spot between a light hand pull and so light it doesn't disengage the clutch. This was way back when I first read about Phil Todd doing it in Classic Bike. I rang him from Sydney, my first ever International Phone call, to get the details on how to do this. Years later, Parrish came up with his hooked arm that didn't require the outer case to be cut.
 
Pushrods havre been measured and are correct. Seeing that aftermarket (or home-made) extended lever i'd be heading straight for it as the culprit. The dogleg version can be used to check the correct shape of the important lower portion to ensure the cutaways for little roller and ball are right.
 
I'd measure the pushrod protrusion from the mainshaft first, should be in the 11.5-12.5mm range, measured from the end of the shaft. If that checks out OK, the fault must lie at the actuating mechanism, in one way or another. Incorrectly shaped lever, modified fulcrum roller... wtf knows! Ball in the lever perch should be 5/16" or 8mm.

Easiest solution would be to fit a stock lever to see if the clutch actually works properly and go from there.

piet
 
I'd measure the pushrod protrusion from the mainshaft first, should be in the 11.5-12.5mm range, measured from the end of the shaft. If that checks out OK, the fault must lie at the actuating mechanism, in one way or another. Incorrectly shaped lever, modified fulcrum roller... wtf knows! Ball in the lever perch should be 5/16" or 8mm.

Easiest solution would be to fit a stock lever to see if the clutch actually works properly and go from there.

piet
Hi Piet
It looks like a stock lever.
Any idea of how thick new clutch plates are?
 
Hi Piet
It looks like a stock lever.
Any idea of how thick new clutch plates are?
Definitely not! The stock lever is about 40mm shorter and does not stick out of the sprocket cover.

New clutch friction plates by Surflex are 3mm (I was incorrect in my previous post), plain plates are 2mm iIrc, none to hand at the moment. I've fitted dozens of these plates over the past decades without issues.

piet
 
Definitely not! The stock lever is about 40mm shorter and does not stick out of the sprocket cover.

New clutch friction plates by Surflex are 3mm (I was incorrect in my previous post), plain plates are 2mm iIrc, none to hand at the moment. I've fitted dozens of these plates over the past decades without issues.

piet
I can now see why the push rod is protruding about 17 mm from the mainshaft when the clutch pack 7+6 measure about 30,2 and the Surflex pack 7+6 measure 36.5 mm.
There is a differens of 6.3 mm that can make the push rod protrude ca 11 mm from the main shaft as you wrote 😃
 

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I can now see why the push rod is protruding about 17 mm from the mainshaft when the clutch pack 7+6 measure about 30,2 and the Surflex pack 7+6 measure 36.5 mm.
There is a differens of 6.3 mm that can make the push rod protrude ca 11 mm from the main shaft as you wrote 😃
Here is the clutch lever arm
 

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You write the pushrod protrudes 17mm, see my post, should be around 12.

As the plates and pushrods check out OK, I'd check if the cross bar at the pressure plate hasn't dislodged itself and is now sitting at an angle...

piet
 
I fabricated a clutch arm that allows the pushrod to protrude more from the sprocket cover. Not pretty but it works.
Problem solved until I get new clutch plates and replace the original clutch arm 😊

Tested yesterday on 100 km ride on country roads and 20 km in city traffic.

Thanks to all for your input 💪
 

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By the time that clutch cable perch is where it should be it looks to me like you'll run out of adjustment in the cable.

At least you've proved where the problem lies.
 
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