Clutch Laverda 1000 3C won't disengage

Make sure the square push bar hasn't fallen out.
Have you put the steel ball between the rods?
Is the clutch cable free?
Paul
 
Thanks for your reply Paul. All the items you mention are ok but when trying to disengage the rear wheel turns very heavy as if there is glue between the plates instead of oil. I will now remove the outerdrum and see what happens.
 
When I first started my 120 deg SFC engine after about 8 years I at first let it run just to warm up until the engine hausing was about 60 deg.
Next time I warmed it up again and with front brakes and the front wheel against a wall I put the 1. gear in. Clutch disengaged imediately, no problem.
If the running bike is on the main stand and first gear in, the back wheel will turn, also when the clutch is pulled, espacially whn the engine is cold.
 
Ed Pol said:
Thanks for your reply Paul. All the items you mention are ok but when trying to disengage the rear wheel turns very heavy as if there is glue between the plates instead of oil. I will now remove the outerdrum and see what happens.
Click to expand...
That may be quite normal. Why are you trying to turn the rear wheel in gear rather than neutral?
Does the clutch lift correctly when riding the bike is the important question?
Paul
 
If you have constant forces at your clutch lever you work against the springs in your clutch and after some mm you pull the lever agaist the forces, mechanicly the clutch will work. So you give the clutch plates the possibility to have gaps to each other. The only thing which can happen in that case is that the oil is working like a glue between the plates. When the oil is warm the viscosity of the oil is lower and so the glue forces are and that makes it more easy to disengage.
If that is the case, just put in the first gear and the clutch will be free.
 
The clutch did not disengage properly while driving with a warm engine even after trying to fully free it against a wall. Now what is the case. Again I dismantled the complete clutch, degreased the plates and housings and now it disengages although it may need some oil. The oil I used is Castrol Classic XL sae 20W/50. Never encountered this on any machine but I used this oil for the first time after expert recommendation.(....). Now feeling a lot better since I experienced the beginners feeling again. Any suggestions which oil i should use?
 
Did not check if plates are really flat but the difference is so huge that I am pretty sure the problem is solved. However, I will check them. Must oil the plates when assembling says the workshop manual so will take them apart again. Will try to find tha Motul oil overhere.
 
Yes, you must oil the plates.
Has your 3C got an oil hole drilled through the bottom of the separation between the primary compartment and gearbox? Not just 5cm up. Early 3Cs didn't maybe leading to oiling problems. The only passage for oil from the engine and gearbox compartments to the primary would be a trickle through the bearings.
My 3C would require parking with the clutch lever pulled in, even for a couple of hours.
Paul
 
Ed Pol said:
Did not check if plates are really flat but the difference is so huge that I am pretty sure the problem is solved. However, I will check them. Must oil the plates when assembling says the workshop manual so will take them apart again. Will try to find tha Motul oil overhere.
Click to expand...

The problem you describe sounds as if not enough movement of the system is the root cause of the issue. That is caused by a Master cylinder not pumping enough fluid down to the slave cylinder so that it does not move enough.

I would rebuild or replace the master. We had that fault not long ago on this forum already.

For the rebuild, there is a comprehensive "how to" guide available in the Wiki-Section of this page, check it out... ;-)

Any - Repair guide - Brembo clutch & brake master cylinder

created by Laverdalothar Caution: if after assembling and re-installing the master cylinder and really precisely bleeding the system you feel a lot of free travel of the lever that does not change when you pump several times, there is a big...
laverdaforum.com laverdaforum.com

top right you'll find the download button
 
Hi Paul, Please find attached a picture of the hole between the two compartments on my 1000. Is that not sufficient?
 

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Ed Pol said:
Hi Paul, Please find attached a picture of the hole between the two compartments on my 1000. Is that not sufficient?
Click to expand...
Hi Ed,
it is hard to see in the foto of the manual and I will not open my clutch cover, but the later engines have a bigger hole, about 20 -25 mm.
I do not think that it makes the big difference. In a running engine there is oil dust everywhere and it also will come tonthe clutch and the primary drive.
On the other side also dry clutches work ( in many race engines and Ducatis) without any oil and if your plates are totally clean, they will disengage, the oil makes them stick together. So if your open clutch all plates clean will disengage - you can turn the inner drum plate against the outer manually, clutch lever pulled- I do not see any reason that it will not disengage at a running engine.





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Are you using an aftermarket lengthened throw-out lever, at the recieving end? How much cable free play have you adjusted?

The issue does indeed sound like not enough throw-out, hence the constant dragging. Worn rods, balls and throw-out lever can cause detrimental geometry, with insufficient travel at the clutch pressure plate. With the clutch lever pulled, the angle between cable and the throw-out lever should remain ≦ 90°, the longer the lever, the more important this becomes. There are definite limits to the lever lengths though, too long and the clutch may not disengage at all.

Many lengthened levers call for next to no cable free play to be able to fully disengage the clutch, which often causes drag on the entire actuating mechanism once a heat differential sets in. This in turn can cause premature wear and/or internal components welding themselves together.

The oil drain holes in the rear of the primary compartment have no influence on clutch operation. Imho, the bore was lowered to reduce oil drag within the primary compartment.

piet
 
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