crankshaft torque

97nm/10kg if you have a crank holding tool or ?bloody tight with a rattle gun? if you don?t 

There is another technical manual for the 1000/1200 where you can see all of those torque values (and others)

Miguel
 
Yah! Use a 130 to 150 Lb Air Rattle Gun and stop before you feel rattling the main bearings - There's no way to hold the crank solid using a Torque Wrench to reach 100 ft Lbs of torque.

Suggest an IR 5 Hp Compressor and Gun - OK I'm a little over board but works Fast ;o)
 
Paul Marx said:
Figure is 10m/kg. (or more)
Click to expand...

Not quite. The figure might be 10, but it's not metres per kilogram. If you're using metres and kilograms, then torque units are m.kg (metres x kilograms). It's also commutative so can be written as kg.m, which is the more usual convention.

Call me pedantic if you like, but I think it's important to understand units of measurement if you're working on mechanical systems.

BTW, I've not seen a torque wrench with a kg.m  scale. It's usually either N.m or ft.lbs
 
Kg is mass and and Kp was force, now in metric system force it is Mass by accelaration g which is 9,81 m/ s2 on earth and called N (kg x m /s2).
The younger colleagues use MPa which is strange for me. Torque is Force by lever length so N x m or Kg x g x m.
:D
 
Ha ha! Quite right Andre. And I thought I was being pedantic.

Most people accept kg as a measure of force, even though that's not strictly correct. I did contemplate introducing the mass/force argument but decided against it so as not to complicate my post beyond people's endurance.  :D
 
I see, it is a bit pedantic an we also use quite often kg as force. Factor between lbs/ ft and Nm is about 1,35, which means 1,35 Nm is 1 lbs/ ft, just google..
 
I always use 120 ft. lbs with loctite and the tab washer. Using the torque values I have seen in books and online (which is always less) will sometimes allow the sprocket to move just enough to mess up the crank splines.
 
I just rattle it up with an air powered rattle gun. It has 4 settings and its max torque is supposedly 200 N.m on setting #4, but I have my doubts. It's a cheap Chinese tool and I suspect its performance isn't as claimed. Anyway, I dunno whether rattle gun torque figures mean much. I guess it depends how long you rattle it for. I can clatter away with the gun for 5 minutes and the thread in the nut shows no sign of stress when I undo it.
 
I was pondering this very topic over the past few days. I have taken my engine to bits and sure enough my new rattle gun is excellent at undoing these difficult crankshaft nuts on either side. They undo in about one second. But of course, taking it to bits is a lot easier than putting it together properly. Impressed though I am on my new rattle gun, I am less relaxed about using it to do the crankshaft nuts up again. I have no feel at all for how tight the nuts would be if I applied the rattle gun to them. In my mind's eye i can see myself pressing the trigger and in a few seconds the nut just strips the thread right off and I would be sitting there looking like Oliver Hardy in that movie when the piano in the crate falls all the way down that long stair case and gets smashed to bits

My gun has 450nm of force. It feels very powerful. It is either full on or full off. Should I use this to do my nuts up ?
 
Yes, that must be right. I just remember for years people saying things like - oh that 'jesus nut' - you just do it up as hard as you can and then you do it up some more. It sort of became imprinted on my mind.
 
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