Ease of getting Neutral when Stopped

Can you easily get neutral when stopped

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So I adjusted the eccentric last night and took it for a ride today. Gearbox worked better through all gears and was able to find neutral MUCH easier coming to rest (I dont have a neutral light at the moment so that makes it a smidge harder). I then adjust the easy-clutch onto its second mounting point which gives more leverage and with that done I've actually been able to start getting neutral even at stop, although not always. So perhaps some more fine tuning of the eccentric will do the trick, we'll see.
 
I doubt adjusting the eccentric will affect getting neutral. It works at fine tuning the through and travel of the internal gear link. The effect you are having with neutral is probably from changing where the cable attaches to the extended lever. That will allow either more or less complete clutch disengagement.The harder the pull the closer to drag you will get.
 
Vince said:
I doubt adjusting the eccentric will affect getting neutral. It works at fine tuning the through and travel of the internal gear link. The effect you are having with neutral is probably from changing where the cable attaches to the extended lever. That will allow either more or less complete clutch disengagement.The harder the pull the closer to drag you will get.
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Probably. So to make downshift better ( I currently blip before downshifting) which was does the eccentric go? Smooth as butter up but have to blip pretty good to get a smooth downshift.

Neutral now not a big problem as I can get into it as I stop/
 
cbertozz said:
Probably. So to make downshift better ( I currently blip before downshifting) which was does the eccentric go? Smooth as butter up but have to blip pretty good to get a smooth downshift.

Neutral now not a big problem as I can get into it as I stop/
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If you don't blip when down changing, it's because you're in a car with synchro gears. Nothing to do with clutch adjustment.
Paul
 
Like many things on Laverdas, the clutch mech isn't quite finished.  (bolt) You may find that you can improve the action using a better designed lever and perch - I found the one off an early GSXR1100 (I think - might have been an FZR1000) helped.  Nice long lever so it didn't look too out of place.

What we really need is some clever bugger to adapt the Japanese style three ball ramp system.

The hydraulic setup is not much better really, and putting on a smaller bore m/c can lead to the same problems you get with the extended arm on the cable clutch.  Still, if they were easy they wouldn't be as much fun eh? :D
 
A little more fiddling with the eccentric fixed it, much more acceptable now. Still can't select it from standstill but can get it just as I roll to a halt starting to recognise the thunk of 2nd on the way so I'm prepared...
 
Might be more clutch cable adjustment-related (drag) now that you have the mechanism in order.
 
Grant said:
Might be more clutch cable adjustment-related (drag) now that you have the mechanism in order.
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Would a more efficient lever on the same length cable might have an impact or am I barking up the wrong tree?
 
Had the same hard pull issue on my cable clutch Pantah, you cannot extend its lower lever as Its to close to the case, so I asked Clint the ex parts bloke at Gowenlocks what they did. Seems I needed an Aprilia dog leg lever and Perch, and it did help a lot with its better geometry. But you do need to have it work with a huge Laverda nippal.
Maybe measure your nippal and ring and ask them. There a Ducati shop in Sydney
 
I used a new pivot and dog leg lever from (I think) a Guzzi Griso and that gives a very nice pull, no extended lever arm at the other end of the cable.
 
Ah, the old 'ugly slot in the case' syndrome - so glad I'm not a rivet counter! Helped me avoid a life of left-hand RSI!

If you do a neat job on the slot and fit nicely milled bits (more to come on this when I advertise my little bling cable fitting kits for sale  :P) ... then the slot looks like the factory put it there!

Getting neutral when stopped is easy with my light clutch setup (but it's a 750 ;-)). Haven't had a neutral light for 40 years.

QF
 
Reggie3cl said:
Like many things on Laverdas, the clutch mech isn't quite finished.  (bolt) You may find that you can improve the action using a better designed lever and perch - I found the one off an early GSXR1100 (I think - might have been an FZR1000) helped.  Nice long lever so it didn't look too out of place.

What we really need is some clever bugger to adapt the Japanese style three ball ramp system.

The hydraulic setup is not much better really, and putting on a smaller bore m/c can lead to the same problems you get with the extended arm on the cable clutch.  Still, if they were easy they wouldn't be as much fun eh? :D
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Don't think so, Reggie.

Reckon it's more a design issue.  Although the clutch requires a minimum amount of lift to disengage fully, after that, any more movement of the push rod does nothing.

Imho, there is too much friction between the friction plates and the drum due to the far greater surface provided by the drive splines compared to the surface in conventional slotted clutch baskets.  These generally have 6 or 8 slots, the Laverda splines offer about 10 times the contact surface of these.  While this is a good thing in one respect, the pressure on each spline is a lot less than that on one slot, it is nevertheless a friction surface.  When the clutch is disengaged, the pressure plate is lifted, the clutch plates need to move by themselves.  Given that the drum splines are often worn, "holding" the clutch plates in position, the plates simply don't move enough to seperate from each other.

All you can do is make the clutch action lighter, so long as you can attain the minimum required movement to offer the plates enough space to seperate.  BTW, Evolution H-D clutches are very similar in construction, the H-D riders manual advises to select neutral from 2nd gear only, preferably before stand-still!  These have a ball/ramp actuator.  :D

What we need is some clever bugger to adopt a generic japanese clutch to the old bangers. (bolt)

piet
 
What we need is some clever bugger to adopt a generic japanese clutch to the old bangers.
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Um, you are one of said clever buggers, so get to it! :D 
 
You really need to try one of Keith Nairn hydraulic conversions...looks fab  works better than it looks.great solution.supposevid better change the fluid at some point!
 
agree with Piet about the surface area of the splines in the clutch basket, hence we just picked up our modified clutch basket yesterday from being anti-friction coated from Competition Coatings in Brisbane
going in our next race engine for the Scorch Frames we are building at the moment


 
When stopped, reach down and pull that selector lever up 1/2 notch into neutral - No big deal and looks Cool ;o)
 
Wouldn't it maybe make sense to get rid of some of these teeth? Could imagine they still would work if you - say - eleminate either equal parts around the clutch basket or maybe every 3rd? One could easily try it first on the plates and then - if successful - on the basket...
 
Laverdalothar said:
Wouldn't it maybe make sense to get rid of some of these teeth? Could imagine they still would work if you - say - eleminate either equal parts around the clutch basket or maybe every 3rd? One could easily try it first on the plates and then - if successful - on the basket...
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I think I suggested this very thing last year on a similar subject - and trying it on the clutch plates first is less 'final' than doing it on the basket. That plus extra oil holes.
 
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