Well in all honesty my cable clutch was pretty good...but it did get heavy in traffic..it was just that when i tried the hydraulic conversion at Keiths..well believe me you wouldnt go back! So neat too..not noticeable except to the trained eye. After being stranded after a rented Suzuki 1150 fell off its stand and snapped the clutch lever right at the pivot..2 up with full luggage on way to Biker Classics at Spa, I carry a spare lever for all my bikes now...though i see that the bmw has a slot which i assume is designed to leave you enough to still operate with
EZ-Pull Clutch set up for Jota
- Thread starter TheWrongTrousers
- Start date
motoddrob
Hero member
- Location
- S/W Australia
I can't remember when I last broke a clutch cable, must be back in the 70s in my SF2 dazes
The extended lever set-up was fitted when I brought my TS1200 with and it has worked perfectly for 34 years.
The 750 SFC clutch is something else again
Not for handbag carrying latte drinkers.
The extended lever set-up was fitted when I brought my TS1200 with and it has worked perfectly for 34 years.
The 750 SFC clutch is something else again
Not for handbag carrying latte drinkers.
- Broke two cables since 1981, that equates to many hundreds of thousand km.
- Only had a friends cable break once on a collectif ride, in the wilds of western Scotland. His cable was very badly maintained to the point that the pull necessary striped the thread on the adjuster.
- All cable problems on a Laverda clutch are due to:
1: bad maintenance
2: bad cable routing
3: bad quality cable
- A clutch cable breaking on a parked bike needs reporting to the newspapers and police.
- If a hydraulic seal went, I couldn't push to the local petrol station because I often ride in places where finding petrol is an issue in itself!
I'll stick with my spare cable, cable tied to the one in place to save getting the tank off if....
Paul
- Only had a friends cable break once on a collectif ride, in the wilds of western Scotland. His cable was very badly maintained to the point that the pull necessary striped the thread on the adjuster.
- All cable problems on a Laverda clutch are due to:
1: bad maintenance
2: bad cable routing
3: bad quality cable
- A clutch cable breaking on a parked bike needs reporting to the newspapers and police.
- If a hydraulic seal went, I couldn't push to the local petrol station because I often ride in places where finding petrol is an issue in itself!
I'll stick with my spare cable, cable tied to the one in place to save getting the tank off if....
Paul
phil37
Hero member
- Location
- Lincolnshire
The 750 SFC clutch is something else again
I fit the SFC750 spec clutch springs in all my Laverdas - with the easy pull cable clutch I once had one of my bikes that was being tested by a magazine described as "having a clutch that could be pulled in by the fingernail of a little finger". Slight exaggeration maybe - but - I've never broken a clutch cable with the extended lever set-up - Regards - Phil
phil37
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- Lincolnshire
SimonR501 said:
Not true - but thanks Simon - just trying to point out that many Laverda owners aren't able to, or can't justify, spending unlimited amounts on their bikes. - Regards - Phil
phil37
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- Location
- Lincolnshire
olly said:
Yes - if you can't get them (50 120 019) - some people use 3 F500 (50 120 089)clutch springs and 3 std (50 120 006) springs - have done this in the early days but prefer to use all 6 the same. haven't got a clue what optimum cable travel would be - regards - Phil
That's left me a bit confused.
Is it that the original springs are a tad weak so using stronger ones prevents slip?
The knock on effect being that stronger springs turn an already stiff lever into a real issue that's resolved by increasing leverage/decreasing clutch movement?
Ignore my daft comment please above about cable pull
An extended arm, I assume, isn't changing how much cable travel there it's just transferring less of that travel to the clutch.
Maybe the question is... what's the minimum clutch movement required.
Is it that the original springs are a tad weak so using stronger ones prevents slip?
The knock on effect being that stronger springs turn an already stiff lever into a real issue that's resolved by increasing leverage/decreasing clutch movement?
Ignore my daft comment please above about cable pull
An extended arm, I assume, isn't changing how much cable travel there it's just transferring less of that travel to the clutch. Maybe the question is... what's the minimum clutch movement required.
Not sure where you are coming from Phil as to spending unlimited amount on bikes...so anyone who decides to employ Keith to fit a hydraulic conversion or anything else is some kind of Oligarch? What does that make those with multiple bikes? And how ordinary is it to have bought a laverda new..they cost a fuggin kings ransom! Some kind of dodgy stereotyping there...Not many folk here are riding them to the factory gate every day, i would wager, they are luxuries not necessities ( wel lmine is actually as I wouldnt want to be without it!).anyway you stick to your cable if you like it...
Simonr501
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- Location
- Lympne, Kent. UK
Point taken! But there are pro's and con's to be considered and cost is one of them.phil37 said:
I have noticed that many modern bikes have a cable operated clutch, I thought that was because of saving money perhaps or some other reason? But it seems that some manufacurers are are going back to hydraulic.
So in the plus column for hydraulic:
1). Hydraulic clutches are self-adjusting - as such the bite point should always be the same
2). It is comparitively easy to change ratios to make effort easier (fit 13mm master cylinder)
3). No lubrication required
In the minus column for hydraulic:
1). More expensive
2). Needs periodic replenishment of fluids
3). Offroad bikes can damage hydraulic equipment easily
4). In general cable can have a better 'feel' (subjective of course)
5). Superior Teflon coated cables have eliminated binding for the most part.
6). fluid leaks mark paintwork
7). Cables are easier to change (but of course it shouldn't bloody snap in the first place with regular maintenance/replacement)
I will be fitting a 13mm clutch master cylinder soon!
After 56 years of reliable operation my left hand now can't take sustained periods of clutch pulling without a lot of pain.
The clutch masters in KTMs use mineral oil instead of brake fluid so no paint damage.In a pinch you can use baby oil from a chemist,pharmacy to some.Handy to know when you lose fluid mid ride.I have no issue with whatever works for the bikes owner and gets the bike being used as it should and the rider smiling and not in discomfort.
phil37
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- Location
- Lincolnshire
nick7 said:
Reacting to that (IMHO) silly and unnecessary comment Nick - think I've made it plain that i don't personally lavish money on my bikes - and feel it wise to point out cheaper viable options - but am more than pleased to see others supporting Laverda specialists by spending lots of money with them - after all that's how I made my living - regards - Phil
phil37
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- Location
- Lincolnshire
nick7 said:
trying to turn the meaning of my comments doesn't work outside of a courtroom Nick - don't think readers are interested in your or my likes or dislikes - probably best to let thread get back to the subject - Regards - Phil
G
Grant
Guest
FFS sort it out guys. :-*
Laverdalothar
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- Location
- Germany
SimonR501 said:
minor correction here, please: you are right, there is no cable that needs lubrification. Still, the ball-bearings in the slave piston and between the two push-rods do need some servicing from time to time...
Simonr501
Hero member
- Location
- Lympne, Kent. UK
Yeah! I have put Molybdenum grease on the ball bearing and also friction points on the lever.Laverdalothar said:
Best not to get the grease on any seals though as they are EPDM Rubber and cannot cope with hydrocarbons.
I suppose that applies to chain grease as well, which is why I use a semi-dry lube on the chain.