First impressions

The blue light is always lit on my SF2.
Don't know if it's high or low beam. Switch is on low.
Doesn't really matter.

Paul
 
The wiring of the idiot lights on the drum brake triple is also complety wrong, but that is what it shows in the drawing and that is how mine was set up. Just change it to your liking - would be my advice....

 
"As for the springs, I'll see if I can get a quote to have a series made but I'm not certain many people would be interested".

Are you taking over the sourcing of ATD springs Paul? fine by me but no point in us both doing it,
100 springs (50 bikes) wont cost a packet, I wouldn't think, and between you and me plus local mates around eight sets would go quickly.
CLEM
 
CLEMTOG said:
"As for the springs, I'll see if I can get a quote to have a series made but I'm not certain many people would be interested".

Are you taking over the sourcing of ATD springs Paul? fine by me but no point in us both doing it,
100 springs (50 bikes) wont cost a packet, I wouldn't think, and between you and me plus local mates around eight sets would go quickly.
CLEM
Click to expand...

I don't have any particular addresses for custom made springs Clem.
I do have some original springs that could be used as models.

50 sets would be quite sufficient to infiltrate the world dominated by oriental electronics.

Paul
 
CLEMTOG said:
100 springs (50 bikes) wont cost a packet, I wouldn't think, and between you and me plus local mates around eight sets would go quickly.
CLEM
Click to expand...


I'll take 3 sets...
 
Hi all,

Today I was doing some checks and recorded it, I did the static light check, and then strobo light with engine running (see video) I think is quite good adjusted, as I was doing it alone, I didn't have enough hands to record the advance to "A" but is working as well. So may be the electronic ignition will have to wait for the time... :D

However, I did discover something that worries me. I saw the cable from the regulator to the Battery+ that was burned in two points, actually I could see a spark, when I had this cable disconnected from the regulator, the spark went through the isolation of the cable to the frame! Why did this happened? may the section of the cable been too narrow?

Miguel

https://youtu.be/ZYtIFJF3vTM
 
michipons said:
The camera doesn't take all stroboscope flashes.. so it looks a bit weird...
Click to expand...

I'm surprised it worked at all. I'd have guessed that a video frame being synchronised with the strobe flash by nothing more than random luck would be a rare thing.

Try a thicker cable from the regulator to battery. 2.5 mm2 conductor should be OK. That'll handle 25 Amps.
If you're getting arcing through the insulation then either the insulation thickness is inadequate, or you're getting high voltage spikes coming from the regulator. The high voltage theory seems unlikely to me, so it must be crap insulation. When you put the 2.5 mm2 cable on, make sure the insulation is OK.
 
Change it already... i put standard house cable, should be 4 or 5. There was 1?5mm, probably mu mistake when redoing all the wire loom.

The biggest arch was with the engine not running, so it must be shitty isolation. Now should work, but I will put extra isolation just in case.

Miguel
 
Timing looks fine.
From now on, you can time it statically and just use the strobe every decade or so to make sure the auto advance is ok.

Paul
 
Why everybody is asking for that!😅 you are scaring me!

I am pretty sure I have, I had an old one almost broken, and I ordered a new one to wolfang it was spring washer with a little plate inside that I had to lime as my crank thread didn?t have the slot for that.

Of course it could be that I forgot to put it at the very last moment, but I don?t think so as I would have found it somewhere on the bench...

Miguel
 
I used the recommended technic ?blody tight? plus washer...
May be they say that because of the ?clok clok? noise on the background. That was the carb syncronizer columns without the air damper...

Miguel
 
The starter clutch housing does not have to be "bloody tight", in the same way as the left hand crankshaft one on the primary drive sprocket, or you risk stripping it. The starter clutch sits on a taper. I nip it up and then give the socket a few whacks (anti clockwise) with my plastic hammer against compression, has never even looked like loosening.
 
With blody tight I meant the Left side crankshaft nut (9kg) I understand Marnix meant this one. The starter side nut, with the left thread, I used your technic, from an older post. And the case, just standard torque.

May be Marnix meant with LH nut the ?left hand thread nut? on the right side 🤪 I should have put there also an spring washer that I also ordered new... but I will double check

Miguel
 
Think he meant the LH 'WASHER' - it is not a conventional spring washer and works only with LH threads. Sounds like you have it covered Miguel.

Was thinking about your comment on vibration. I don't think I've ridden many SFs that have the same characteristics in terms of vibes. Have ridden some absolute shockers (usually ones that had had a DPO ... 'dickhead previous owner' for your non-English initiation into the term  :P - where dodgy work had had been administered in a previous life) and some really lovely ones. My SF1 was a smooth motor and remained that way after I refurbished the top end after 110,000km. It was really good at very high speed - which I liked a lot!  :D

There are several in the Laverda engineering/mechanical community with the experience and knowledge to properly rebuild and balance Lav crankshafts. Done properly, it makers a HUGE difference.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top