Flashing generator light mk2 Jota

So with reference to the wires here?s a picture of the area showing the unconnected ones... any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Looks OK - I think (but not absolutely certain) that the ND alternator output cable has some doubled up wiring (like the RGS) but the wires are usually joined and hidden in the sheathing.  Maybe someone can confirm, or you can check where the 'spare' yellow and white/blue come from?

Alternator output is yellow; white/blue; green/white.  The yellow and white/blue wires go (via bullet connectors) to the reg/rect.  The green/white routes through the headlight switch and returns from there as green/red, connecting via bullet where it changes to red/white on to the reg/rect

So it look as though someone has disconnected the return leg from the headlight switch and connected the alternator direct to the reg/rect.  That's OK if you ride with the headlight on, otherwise the reg/rect will be cooked because it isn't rated for the full alternator output.  That's why one phase is only switched in when the headlight is on.

As a matter of urgency, you should replace the overheated bullet connector for the red (battery feed) and the white/blue to the reg/rect - they've gone high resistance due to corrosion. 

Finally, the reg/rect looks like it may be OE in which case there is nothing to drive the red Gen light. Maurice's suggestion is worth investigating...you'll soon see what's happening after removing the clock cover.
 
Rob said:
Looks OK - I think (but not absolutely certain) that the ND alternator output cable has some doubled up wiring (like the RGS) but the wires are usually joined and hidden in the sheathing.  Maybe someone can confirm, or you can check where the 'spare' yellow and white/blue come from?

Alternator output is yellow; white/blue; green/white.  The yellow and white/blue wires go (via bullet connectors) to the reg/rect.  The green/white routes through the headlight switch and returns from there as green/red, connecting via bullet where it changes to red/white on to the reg/rect

So it look as though someone has disconnected the return leg from the headlight switch and connected the alternator direct to the reg/rect.  That's OK if you ride with the headlight on, otherwise the reg/rect will be cooked because it isn't rated for the full alternator output.  That's why one phase is only switched in when the headlight is on.

As a matter of urgency, you should replace the overheated bullet connector for the red (battery feed) and the white/blue to the reg/rect - they've gone high resistance due to corrosion. 

Finally, the reg/rect looks like it may be OE in which case there is nothing to drive the red Gen light. Maurice's suggestion is worth investigating...you'll soon see what's happening after removing the clock cover.
Click to expand...

Thanks foe this, I?ll change the connectors before I run it again.... yes I think the reg/rec is original..... Thinking about an electric one....  And Dyna coils.......any thoughts?

Stu
I?ll report back!
 
every series one fitted with BTZ that I have seen still with the original reg/rect (and that's a lot) has a working red light including TOG.
CLEM

picture shows (second) original and still working reg/rect
and fuses that anyone with torpedo's should be fitting
 

Attachments

  • resize fuses.jpg
    resize fuses.jpg
    45.7 KB · Views: 128
yes I think the reg/rec is original..... Thinking about an electric one....  And Dyna coils.......any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Guess you mean Electrex.  Their RR10 is now a Mosfet device so runs cooler, is more efficient and rated for full alternator output. So yes, a sensible choice given your original item is nearly 40 years old and may fail taking the battery with it.
I personally wouldn't bother with Dyna coils - a lot of money for no useful benefit.
 
That's because it had a CDI ignition.
Only the series 1 180s with BTZ ignition had the appropriate r/r for the Gen light.
 
Rob said:
Guess you mean Electrex.  Their RR10 is now a Mosfet device so runs cooler, is more efficient and rated for full alternator output. So yes, a sensible choice given your original item is nearly 40 years old and may fail taking the battery with it.
I personally wouldn't bother with Dyna coils - a lot of money for no useful benefit.
Click to expand...

Lol yes electrex!,   
I thought the Dyna coils would be a useful upgrade and maybe magnecor cables....

Elextrex unit to be ordered next week.....

Stu
 
So does the Electrex RR10 have an output for for the alternator light?? Is that the black wire on their site?
Also their ERR takes three phases.
I have a 79 Jota that has the the same RR as Clems the charge light is working but doesn't extinguish when the revs pick up and there is no charge across the battery.
 
If replacing the regulator, there are better and cheaper choices than Electrex or other new replacement units. On my RGS which has the same alternator as a series 2 180 I am using the regulator from a Yamaha R1 which is rated at 30 amps or 420 watts. These are also a MOSFET type so they don't run as hot as older types. It only gets a little bit warm on my RGS. They can also be found on ebay used for sometimes $20. It is bigger then the regulator Laverda used but can be made to fit. In my opinion far superior to any of the new replacement units.

Look for Shindengen models:

FHO12AA

FHO15AA

FHO20AA

And finally, make sure you are getting a real Shindegen one. Not a Chinese copy which are junk. If it is for sale on Amazon or Ebay for new at $49 it is a copy. The real ones are over $100 new.
 
Grant said:
That's because it had a CDI ignition.
Only the series 1 180s with BTZ ignition had the appropriate r/r for the Gen light.
Click to expand...

My apologies, I'm getting confused between bikes I've worked on. It was my brother's 3C that had the plain rectifier and no gen light. My 76 3CL (BTZ ign) had a RR, but still no wire to the gen light from the RR, presumably because there was no terminal on the RR to drive a gen light. It's quite possible that it wasn't an original RR by the time the bike came into my ownership. It's certainly been swapped out now because I fitted a 3-phase (Redax) alternator.
 
It is bigger then the regulator Laverda used but can be made to fit. In my opinion far superior to any of the new replacement units.
Click to expand...
It's a good unit which I use myself, but I'd be interested to see how you fitted it to an RGS in the same position as OE. You also need to purchase suitable connectors to do a proper job.  In the UK most sellers have twigged that these r/rs are sought after and price accordingly. Easy to end up buying a Chinese knockoff unless you are an anorak too.  There is a useful benefit in buying new with a guarantee vs used.

So does the Electrex RR10 have an output for for the alternator light??
Click to expand...
No. If you have the Bosch single phase/two charging coil alternator, then the Ignitech R82 will give you a warning light. Similar (but not the same!) size as OE too.  It is only suitable for single phase alternators (a la Bosch) not 3 phase (Nippon Denso - series 2 and RGS etc triple variants).
You have to download the Ignitech price list to find it. ?42 or $39 US plus p+p  Spec sheet attached



 

Attachments

Electrex RR51 has the required wire (white if memory serves correctly). Fitted one to my Mirage and then ran the wire up to the clock - now has a functioning gen light.

HTH

David
 
davidf said:
Electrex RR51 has the required wire (white if memory serves correctly). Fitted one to my Mirage and then ran the wire up to the clock - now has a functioning gen light.

HTH

David
Click to expand...

Put one on my wife's 500 as well. Gen light functional.

Paul
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top