Gear change set up

russo011

russo011

Senior member
Location
Austria
As a completely new Laverda owner with zero experience on working on I wanted to ask for some advice. Since last week I am now an owner of a 76 3CL, not to get into details I bought the bike unseen. From the photos & videos I had though the bike looked really stock & clean. On the first check over the battery was obviously dead and exhaust down pipe (no 1 cylinder) was waggly. Battery was easy enough to replace & the waggly pipe seems to be down to a missing split ring at the collet and an oversized exhaust clamp at the silencer. Anyway I digress, bike started up on the button once the battery was exchanged, selected 1st gear and got to the end of the road - just couldn't get it into neutral though. Stopped the motor and tried to shift by hand, lever moved of course, however nothing happened to the gear selector. So as I intended to change the oil I removed the cover behind the gear change lever and found what you see in photo 1. Claw was just slipping over the gear selector pins and not moving anything. The line on the gear shaft was pointing upwards (11 o'clock position). I managed to move the shaft around to the 3 o'clock position and have installed the selector drum with the matching line in the 9 o'clock position,as you can see in photo 2. I must admit the gear change does seem quite stiff but every one can be selected now. Before I do a stupid and bolt everything back together and refill with oil, can someone tell me if everything is as it should be, cheers RussIMG_20210805_190955.jpg
 

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Hello Folks, as a new Laverda owner & never having worked on one before I am looking for advice. I bought a 76 3CL unseen, with 45000 km on the clock, from the photos & vids though it looked standard and very clean. Anyway I digress, on first check battery appeared dead & exhaust down pipe on no 1 cylinder "waggly". Battery was easy enough to replace and the exhaust issue seems to stem from a missing split ring behind the collet at the end and an oversized clamp at the silencer. Anyways bike started on the button after changing the battery, got to the end of the road and couldn't find neutral. Stopped the motor and tried to move the lever by hand. It of course moved but didn't seem to be moving anything inside the gearbox. As I wanted to change the oil I removed the cover behind the gear change level, marking on the inner shaft was pointing upwards in the 11 o'clock position (1st photo) . Moving the lever only caused the claw to slip over the pins on the selector shaft. I managed to rotate the inner shaft so the mark ran in the 3 o'clock position and installed the selector shaft matched up in the 9 o'clock position (2nd photo). Claw engages on the pins now and spins the selector shaft. All gears can be selected now even though the actuation seems stiff and clunky. Before I do a stupid and bolt everything back in place and refill with oil, can anyone tell me if everything is as it should be? And if anyone has any ideas why this could have happened in the first place? Cheers Russ
 

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Lots of variables. Thousands of pages have been written on how to set this up... an extensive search will surely clear many things up for you. Once you get the hang of the workings, it all becomes very simple.

Spent the better part of yesterday afternoon fixing a completely bodged selector mechanism on a completely bodged triple. Was quite testing this time, but got there eventually.

piet
 
Welcome to the wacky world of Laverda, Russ.
Setting up the gearchange is one of the great mysteries of Laverdas and has caused much gnashing of teeth and one or two bikes to be sold on.
Principal problem, after delving into the rear sprocket, is that the gearbox case is not precisely located on the crankcase. There's a degree of wriggle room.
The trick is to loosen the cover until it is just nipped on, then gently lever the case into the position in which the selector shaft (the one with the pins that the hooks engage) most easily slides in an out (you'll know when you hit the sweet spot). Once you've found it tighten the case on, in that position. Happy days!
I'm assuming you're happy with adjusting the eccentric, if required.
 
Thanks, must admit the selector shaft didn't slide out easy, however after turning the inner shaft to the current position it slid in quite easily. Thing I wanted to know is if the basic set up is correct with alignment of the marks at 9 and 3.
 
There should be a line marked on the end of the shaft that is set horizontal when the bike is in neutral there is do much black crap on the bits it's hard to tell this can be frustrating get the bike up so you can turn the rear wheel by hand while working through the gears they bind on the cover as said
 
Wellcom in our family.
Don´t forget the spacer (no. 12) on the automatic switch shaft and the spacer (no. 13) between the switch spring and the outer cover!

You have enough Laverda professionals in Austria and you also have a very committed club.
You can only contact me by PM if you get stuck.

Schaltung.gif
Thomas aus LAU
 
I've also seen bikes where the outer cover binds the lever shaft once tightened. Easy to check by dummy-fitting with no gasket . It should fit with a gap narrower than the width of the compressed gasket. I also fit a large OD washer UNDER the spring to prevent the spring tang from fouling between eccentric screw and lever assembly when selecting a gear. Not that common but does definitely happen. It just guarantees that the spring tangs stay out of trouble.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
I've also seen bikes where the outer cover binds the lever shaft once tightened. Easy to check by dummy-fitting with no gasket . It should fit with a gap narrower than the width of the compressed gasket. I also fit a large OD washer UNDER the spring to prevent the spring tang from fouling between eccentric screw and lever assembly when selecting a gear. Not that common but does definitely happen. It just guarantees that the spring tangs stay out of trouble.
Click to expand...
had the same problem, a spacer or bend the spring 'tips' to clear the mechanism
 
It's been a lottery to me on occasion zero issues and other times MONTH of either missing 1st or 5th gear with the acentric adjustment
 
The Sock said:
Attached from the Factory Handbook that came with the bike.
Ted at ILOC has reproductions available.View attachment 58261View attachment 58262
Click to expand...
thanks, already got an owner's manual from Ted, marks on my bike are approximately the same - just good to have confirmation from long time owners :) . The selector arm is adjusted more or less as noted - just now would like to compare the feel to other bikes - how "clunky" the gearbox shift can be expected to be.
 
Thomas aus LAU said:
Wellcom in our family.
Don´t forget the spacer (no. 12) on the automatic switch shaft and the spacer (no. 13) between the switch spring and the outer cover!

You have enough Laverda professionals in Austria and you also have a very committed club.
You can only contact me by PM if you get stuck.

View attachment 58263
Thomas aus LAU
Click to expand...
thanks, my bike has 2 washers (13) after the spring, an o-ring in the outer cover & a washer between the outer cover and gear change lever. The bigger washer (12) on the pin shaft. By the way intend to be at the 16th Laverda Freunde event on the 28th of August at Maria Schutz
 
piranha-bro2 said:
I've also seen bikes where the outer cover binds the lever shaft once tightened. Easy to check by dummy-fitting with no gasket . It should fit with a gap narrower than the width of the compressed gasket. I also fit a large OD washer UNDER the spring to prevent the spring tang from fouling between eccentric screw and lever assembly when selecting a gear. Not that common but does definitely happen. It just guarantees that the spring tangs stay out of trouble.
Click to expand...
Thanks, i will try the cover without a gasket as you mentioned - reminds me i have to get a gasket in any case as the original fell apart on cover removal :)
 
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