Headlight Reflector

I've never know anyone who "resilvered" a reflector. Where would you go for that service? I think replacement is the more practical step.
Genius of the Lamp in Birmingham UK do this work. I have used them for vintage stuff and a great job they do to, however it's not really cost effective for modern stuff where replacements are more readily available.
 
Hello Vince, I am in the US and I have to do the same with my '75 GT.
there is a two legged cover or shield that cover the bulb this cover is scuzzy looking and I may look to have it restored somehow
and a pilot lamp bulb
My reflector needs re silvering
I did a soft search online and found a website called something like Steve's Auto Restoration that re-silvers reflectors of the hot rodding market $40 a pop for reflector is good condition, remedial work adds to the cost. The reflectors are glass and have a copper plating that provides a smooth base for the silver. I checked with a specialty BMW restoration shop for a new reflector and only a complete headlamp was available for almost $1000. His guy sold his stock to MAX Motors BMW dealer in Maryland. Which has parts fiches online.
I also looked into do it myself in the US there is Carswell's that sells plating equipment, supplies and kits. I have heard of other suppliers elsewhere in the world.
When I rebuilt my GT the Lens was broken, the replacement came with a seal. The replacement was from the guy that quit and sold to MAX.
I maybe rechroming my SF headlamp bowl, I will be looking for a restorer that does plastic dashboards for Auto restorers. Will check online and Hemmings News.
 
Yep, you can rechrome them but when you look at the light from a short distance the output appears yellow and seems much weaker in terms of brightness.Don’t bother asking me how I know😢
Tom
 
Hey Vince the reflectors are actually metal and I have had heaps just rechromed, my plater does it for about $60
The trouble with chrome is that although shiny, it puts out almost no light. Craig did it - ends up looking like a parking light (since rectified). It needs to be silvered to work properly.
Just to clarify, why are separate reflectors $400 and semi-sealed beams $52 and is there an advantage between one or the other systems? This seems kind of odd.
Vince, the sealed beam you're talking about is a different size and will not fit the later triple's ~180mm Bosch headlight. Sealed beams are dirt cheap because they are an industrial standard made in massive quantities. That size/shape was mandated to be the same for every car in the US until the ?? 80's at least. Ever wonder why 70's/80's US model cars like 911's and Merc's etc always had the goofy front ends? That was because they were not allowed to be sold with the non-standard shape headlights, they had to have single or double 7" sealed beams (and later also a standardised rectangular version) only.

Try Wolfgang for a reflector, I've bought a couple from him but yes the prices of Bosch stuff has climbed rapidly. I agree I almost never ride at night anymore - especially since moving to a bush block (too many skippies) - but having the capability is totally necessary. The bikes also look much nicer with a fresh reflector in there, the headlight really pops.
 
Live and learn, some might say I dig into this stuff too much but I like to make fully informed decisions when buying or using a product and hell it's good to learn from others' experiences, nobody knows EVERYTHING even if some think they do. So my conundrum, I am pretty sure I have that same semi-sealed unit in my bike and have since I bought it more than 30 years ago. It has fitted in a manner of sorts, it's not rock solid. It can move with a considerable amount of pressure like what's required to snap the rim into its bucket especially if you lean on the glass instead of the chrome rim. It's possible to move it about 3mm or so. Replacing it with the alternative is bloody expensive eg $53 compared to almost $500 and I don't see a huge advantage in the extra cost, happy to be proven wrong. To be honest I can live with keeping that tarnished seal beam for a while anyway. I just hope the new bulb fixes the issue for now. Thanks to all that replied, and it made some content for a while as well, sorry for those that made all that effect to read it and wasted valuable thumb-twiddling time.
 
Us spec SFCs came with sealed beams. Never fitted nicely into the rubber surround in the fairing.
Found an original Carrillo
Some time ago to replace the sealed beam.
 
Vince, if you've got a sealed beam in that fairing then you're laughing. I thought you had an original Bosch 180mm. The Velo had a sealed beam in the Avon fairing and I got a Narva or Hella H4 semi-sealed beam housing and an LED bulb - awesome result and all in-stock down at my local NAPA for reasonable $$$. I'll dig out some part numbers if you like.
PS Semi sealed means that the dimensions conform to the old sealed beam standard, but it takes a replaceable globe.
 
No, I have a standard Laverda headlight bucket with a semi-sealed glass and reflector installed in that bucket fitted to a metal fairing mount. So apparently they do fit, Kind of. To be clear I can pull the fairing off leaving the Headlight bucket still mounted with this unit inside that bucket. I have a distinct memory of putting a screwdriver with a rag and Autosol attached through the bulb hole and attempting to polish the tarnished reflector many years ago. Guess how that went, that Silvering is very soft. That tends to confirm I have that semi-sealed light, I also remember fishing that twin leg cap out the same bulb hole back then. If it was a completely open separate reflector why would I remember all that? When it stops raining, we have a month's rain coming this weekend AGAIN I will get a chance to pull it apart and see for sure.
 
Maybe this is a DPO component from before my 34 years of ownership? It seems to be a confusing bit to all other owners. A couple of years back I bought a missing rubber gasket and struggled to fit it, obviously a single glass lens is a lot thinner than the end of a semi-sealed unit edge. Mmm
 
States side guys might want to contact Spectrum Coatings. they do astronomy - telescope mirrors. I used them to refurbish a dozen or so front faced mirrors with great result and fast turnaround. Seems over the top high end coating for a headlight, but prices are reasonable.

Prices Here:
 
Hey Vince.

I think I've got a NOS Bosch 180mm Laverda headlight complete with rim in a box somewhere. I bought it years ago when they were a dime a dozen in case I ever crashed the bike and would need a replacement. So far I haven't.
Me too I picked two up brand new online, one I have already used following a crash back in 05 they were both for the left-hand drive so that's probably why they were so cheap in the USA (complete units, shell, lens, rubber seals, reflectors). If you still have the clip-in over the H4 bulb reflector bowl, spoon thingy I would suggest you remove and ditch it all H4 bulbs have a sprayed-on reflector these days. The clip-on inevitably falls off and ruins the reflector before you even realize it has broken off and is rattling around the reflector, do it now, the pedantic excused.
 
I used a good quality alfoil and spray adhesive with spectacular results
Can we get some more info on the alfoil please Mr Cosi?
Brand of adhesive ect.

It would be a shame if this thread didn't go to a third or forth page.....

Specially as Vince as now put it all in the too hard basket...
 
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Chrome plating is not uniform, it is micro cracked. Why you see poor quality ( not copper nickel chrome ) appear to rust, chrome cannot rust as an element, the rust on chrome is substrate steel rusting under the micro cracked plating and coming through. Have some excellent electroplating and electroplaters hand books, going back to 1930's on wards.... reviting, no.. plated j.
 
Can we get some more info on the alfoil please Mr Cosi?
Brand of adhesive ect.

It would be a shame if this thread didn't go to a third or forth page.....

Specially as Vince as now put it all in the too hard basket...

Hey Tom

Any old foil will do if your in strife but I’ve found that the best brand of foil was Comalco, made in Australia and I tend to sway towards either Sika or fullers spray adhesive

The key is to make sure you put the shiniest side out, this is probably the most important part of the process, the rest is pretty easy, obviously make sure the surface is clean dry and free of any contaminants. Pre cut a piece of practice foils, for a trial run, don’t worry if you fuck this one up , you can save the damaged practice pieces for jacket spuds later on. Oh one thing I forgot to mention, it’s best to remove the bulb and the reflector from the headlight bucket, I know this seems obvious bleedingly obvious but some people try to take this short cut
So you have your test piece cut for a practice run, bulb is out reflector is on the bench, you need to make a reflector jig, I made mine out of some timber to suit the diameter of the reflector, this a important part as the next part of the process requires the reflector to sit flat, I liken it to a egg in a eggcup setup. Get your practice piece/ pieces of foil and lay it in the reflector. Now this is my trade secret of how to get the foil nice and flat and even in the bowl, it sounds unconventional but I found that the best thing to use is a tennis ball, not one that you’ve been throwing for the dog or one that’s been belted around the Avalon tennis courts, fresh new out of the tin, I prefer to use technifibre or babalot brands myself but a Wilson Spaulding or Dunlop will do the job. Take a fresh ball, heat it to about 45 degrees Celsius and you want to gently knead the foil from inside to outer with the tennis ball to gently shape the foil to sit in the concave shape of the reflector, get it as close to perfect as you can, don’t worry if there is some fine crinkles in the foil, these will roll out with the adhesive, the key here is to get it as close to the finished product as possible, once you have achieved this it’s time to break out the spray,

Spray liberally but evenly, take your pre shaped foil and place on reflector, repeat the kneading process with the tennis ball working from the inside to the our edge, allow to dry normally about 30 minutes in the sun and finally trim up any excess and you should have a as good if not better than new reflector.

I have used this process many times, most of the qld guys have been running lights with this process for the last 10 years or so, it’s proven and it works, im sure there will be testimonials to follow from many happy punters.

I have also been working on different coulours and shapes to enhance the light refraction and to add a little custom style bling to customise the output, this is still a work in progress, so stay tuned

If you need any more advice, drop me a line

C
 
Hey Tom

Any old foil will do if your in strife but I’ve found that the best brand of foil was Comalco, made in Australia and I tend to sway towards either Sika or fullers spray adhesive

The key is to make sure you put the shiniest side out, this is probably the most important part of the process, the rest is pretty easy, obviously make sure the surface is clean dry and free of any contaminants. Pre cut a piece of practice foils, for a trial run, don’t worry if you fuck this one up , you can save the damaged practice pieces for jacket spuds later on. Oh one thing I forgot to mention, it’s best to remove the bulb and the reflector from the headlight bucket, I know this seems obvious bleedingly obvious but some people try to take this short cut
So you have your test piece cut for a practice run, bulb is out reflector is on the bench, you need to make a reflector jig, I made mine out of some timber to suit the diameter of the reflector, this a important part as the next part of the process requires the reflector to sit flat, I liken it to a egg in a eggcup setup. Get your practice piece/ pieces of foil and lay it in the reflector. Now this is my trade secret of how to get the foil nice and flat and even in the bowl, it sounds unconventional but I found that the best thing to use is a tennis ball, not one that you’ve been throwing for the dog or one that’s been belted around the Avalon tennis courts, fresh new out of the tin, I prefer to use technifibre or babalot brands myself but a Wilson Spaulding or Dunlop will do the job. Take a fresh ball, heat it to about 45 degrees Celsius and you want to gently knead the foil from inside to outer with the tennis ball to gently shape the foil to sit in the concave shape of the reflector, get it as close to perfect as you can, don’t worry if there is some fine crinkles in the foil, these will roll out with the adhesive, the key here is to get it as close to the finished product as possible, once you have achieved this it’s time to break out the spray,

Spray liberally but evenly, take your pre shaped foil and place on reflector, repeat the kneading process with the tennis ball working from the inside to the our edge, allow to dry normally about 30 minutes in the sun and finally trim up any excess and you should have a as good if not better than new reflector.

I have used this process many times, most of the qld guys have been running lights with this process for the last 10 years or so, it’s proven and it works, im sure there will be testimonials to follow from many happy punters.

I have also been working on different coulours and shapes to enhance the light refraction and to add a little custom style bling to customise the output, this is still a work in progress, so stay tuned

If you need any more advice, drop me a line

C
Can confirm, though with much effort and preparation, that cos,s method greatly improves headlight candle power, and you can’t beat a jacket spud
 
Hey Tom

Any old foil will do if your in strife but I’ve found that the best brand of foil was Comalco, made in Australia and I tend to sway towards either Sika or fullers spray adhesive

The key is to make sure you put the shiniest side out, this is probably the most important part of the process, the rest is pretty easy, obviously make sure the surface is clean dry and free of any contaminants. Pre cut a piece of practice foils, for a trial run, don’t worry if you fuck this one up , you can save the damaged practice pieces for jacket spuds later on. Oh one thing I forgot to mention, it’s best to remove the bulb and the reflector from the headlight bucket, I know this seems obvious bleedingly obvious but some people try to take this short cut
So you have your test piece cut for a practice run, bulb is out reflector is on the bench, you need to make a reflector jig, I made mine out of some timber to suit the diameter of the reflector, this a important part as the next part of the process requires the reflector to sit flat, I liken it to a egg in a eggcup setup. Get your practice piece/ pieces of foil and lay it in the reflector. Now this is my trade secret of how to get the foil nice and flat and even in the bowl, it sounds unconventional but I found that the best thing to use is a tennis ball, not one that you’ve been throwing for the dog or one that’s been belted around the Avalon tennis courts, fresh new out of the tin, I prefer to use technifibre or babalot brands myself but a Wilson Spaulding or Dunlop will do the job. Take a fresh ball, heat it to about 45 degrees Celsius and you want to gently knead the foil from inside to outer with the tennis ball to gently shape the foil to sit in the concave shape of the reflector, get it as close to perfect as you can, don’t worry if there is some fine crinkles in the foil, these will roll out with the adhesive, the key here is to get it as close to the finished product as possible, once you have achieved this it’s time to break out the spray,

Spray liberally but evenly, take your pre shaped foil and place on reflector, repeat the kneading process with the tennis ball working from the inside to the our edge, allow to dry normally about 30 minutes in the sun and finally trim up any excess and you should have a as good if not better than new reflector.

I have used this process many times, most of the qld guys have been running lights with this process for the last 10 years or so, it’s proven and it works, im sure there will be testimonials to follow from many happy punters.

I have also been working on different coulours and shapes to enhance the light refraction and to add a little custom style bling to customise the output, this is still a work in progress, so stay tuned

If you need any more advice, drop me a line

C
Once upon a time I was a member of GASH a famous Australian motorcycle club the acronym is great aussie shit hangers we had many special processes like the wonderful aluminium "Comalco"only headlight reflectors we even had a special Pal Jaffle for food thieves at a once a year motorcycle race meeting at Bathurst.
We even had our GASH flag stolen from this event and returned about 15 years later pity most of the members had passed away (I wonder if it was from the PAL jaffles??)
 
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