Help IDing old tank

The frame is an S. #2698
Green book shows this serial as a 1969.
So does this mean this frame was manufactured between 1 September 1968 and 31 July 1969?

The engine that came in this frame is #4964 and has SN stamped at the lower left eng mount.
Looking for the significance of the SN on the engine. What does it all mean!

Its not stock, its special.

 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
If you build it up with SF parts it will still be a fantastic bike - what assortment of SF bits do you have that detour from the original S?
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PB2
I have seat, tank, fenders, Gen1 and Gen2 wheels; basically I can cobbled together a SF.
No gauges, controls, electrical components (harness, relays, coils, solenoid etc)
Can get Smiths easily from local SMITHS re-builder, assume I can get Bosch headlamp from BMW connections???
The only S part is the frame.
Larry
 
S and SF mudguards should be the same. Certainly at the front.
You want to see if the Smiths Laverda ratios are the same as the UK ones. Make sure you have the right drive in the front wheel for the Smiths.
Have a look here: http://vintagebritishcables.com/Smiths-Motorcycle-Speedo-Tach-Repair-Restore.php

Wiring isn't a problem, not many wires on it.

Dell'Orto VHB carbs can be replaced with japanese.
You will, probably find a head light at BMW suppliers but it may have a big hole in it for a speedo.

Paul
 
Paul Marx said:
S and SF mudguards should be the same. Certainly at the front.
You want to see if the Smiths Laverda ratios are the same as the UK ones. Make sure you have the right drive in the front wheel for the Smiths.
Have a look here: http://vintagebritishcables.com/Smiths-Motorcycle-Speedo-Tach-Repair-Restore.php

Wiring isn't a problem, not many wires on it.

Dell'Orto VHB carbs can be replaced with japanese.
You will, probably find a head light at BMW suppliers but it may have a big hole in it for a speedo.

Paul
Click to expand...

Hi Paul,
I don't know what a PO did to these fenders. The underside of the rear fender has been painted, but a small section of polished SS is visible. The outer/top surface is dull gray this was possibly grit blasted or chemically treated?? The fenders do have the INOX stamp.
I tried a little metal polish by hand and I was barely able to change the finish towards anything resembling a shine.
I want to remove the paint underneath without damaging the possible polished surface under the paint or knocking off the wiring clips.

What do you mean not many wires on it? On the entire bike?

I have a pair of Dells VHB but possibly both are Left side carbs, makes it hard to adjust the one on the Rt side.  ;)

I see images of Lavs with the large hole in the BOSCH headlamp and a rubber cap filling the hole. Was this just an occasional blip in the supply /production line? any ideas?

I have just now looked at vintagebritishcables site thanks for pointing me to this vendor. I will be contacting them.
I am thinking more of getting this bike together with what pieces I have and watching for the frame correct S pieces. Even thought the engine will never match.
Thanks Paul
 
Your mudguards will polish up but a polishing mop on a machine will be necessary.

Very few early twins, 650s only I should think but I may be wrong, used the BMW headlight with the speedo hole covered by a large rubber bung marked Laverda.

When I say a few wires, it's pretty basic.
Stop light with front and rear switches.
Ignition
Horn
Starter motor and its handlebar button, relay.
Dynamo and regulator
Lights including instruments with handlebar mounted dip/mainbeam switch.
2 fuses originally.

A lot of the electrics are concentrated in that headlamp ignition switch which allows you to switch from main lights to sidelight (or whatever the term).

Paul
 
Underside of guards were never polished - just paint strip them underneath. If you struggle to get a good finish on the up sides, just poay a pro to do it - they have all the wheels and buffs and compounds and the experience.
 
The stainless used on my rear guard is pretty low grade, there is rust that wouldn't buff out.
Maybe someone had yours treated so that paint would stick and which has then been stripped off.
 
Tippie said:
The stainless used on my rear guard is pretty low grade, there is rust that wouldn't buff out.
Maybe someone had yours treated so that paint would stick and which has then been stripped off.
Click to expand...

Same on my S which lay neglected for decades.
No problem on my SF2. New guard purchased around 1990 and bike used regularly. Washed very regularly, twice a year.

Paul
 
Hello Paul, Tippie and PB2,
Painted SS is not my style but to each their own. (I guess) Yeah the undersides of my GT fenders are clear SS. I say clear in that their are kind of shiny but definitely not polished. I have a local polisher, who does commercial volumes of new parts. A couple of months ago I took in a repaired points cover to see how his work was. The cover had be welded and grit blasted; polished cover looked good except for a couple of very small imperfection pits. Not his fault.
I will use some chemical to remove the paint on the underside, don't want to risk knocking-tearing off any wiring harness clips and then I will have the topsides polished.
Just ordered more parts through ebay from the knackered SF. WooHoo more money.  :o
Thanks for the advice.
Larry
 
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