help needed to identify noise

jdugen said:
Just a quick update.  Bearing fitted, all is as peaceful and quiet as any Lav is going to be.  Fitted an SKF as original, a ?12 bearing that managed to spoil a really good holiday, (grumble, whinge). 

I could go on to say, why?  Why balance a rotor so far away from the main casings?  The Japs just bolted the starter clutch to the back of the rotor, would have saved about 2 -3 inches of overhang and given plenty clearance for taking R/H corners.
As my brother would say, 'It's Italian, what do you expect?'

Cheers
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Wasn't any japanese pointless electronic ignition on the market at the time... they made do with what they could source.

CDIs were in their infancy, early japs even reverted back to points, eg. Kawasaki triples, because their CDIs went bang so often.

piet
 
jdugen said:
I didn't, quite, pack a rattle gun and suitable socket, puller, drill to get the pickup rotor grub screw out, a tap to re-tap the hole, a stainless bolt, a hacksaw and a vice to hold said bolt while cutting to size and a long box spanner.... Oh, and a 16006/C3 bearing!  I had a day and a half to try and sort that lot out, it was raining cats and dogs on a very windy and exposed sea-front.  Don't think I did too badly, once home, total time to strip, source bearing and refit 2 hours.
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Ha ha! Well my post was slightly tongue in cheek but you are sounding like a bit of a drama queen  :D
 
DRAMA QUEEN!!!!!!!  Say that again and I'll scratch your EYES out!

Quite right Piet, everybody else used good ol' points in those days.  I never trust early adopters of technology, especially the electronics of the 70's.  I was involved in developing the first Phillips VCR's so I know how frail they were. 
 
A quick update that might be of interest.
I took the bearing to some friends at the local University engineering department aerospace division.  Under the microscope, it was evident that there had been a breakdown of the case hardened ball surfaces.  Its the sort of damage that occurs from rust, rather than debris.  The general opinion was that, as the machine had been stood for so long, what oil there was in the starter mesh casing had dried and the moist atmosphere of Manchester had done the rest. 
On an engine used regularly, there should be no problem other than old age failure, but they did suggest packing it with High Melting Point grease on assembly, and checking it if the bike is stood for more than a year.

Cheers
 
Once again, sorry for the refloat, but I rather keep issues under the same post (please let me know if you guys prefer otherwise). I?ve been searching the forum, and this is the most similar subject I?ve found.

While my knowledge of laverda engine noises is limited, I?ve noticed a bit of a whirring noise coming from the alternator area. Taking the alternator cap off, I?ve seen a mark made by the nut at some point in time; but the noise remains without the cap.
Here is the cap:
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With a bit more detail:


The nut looks a bit weird, but everything else looks good:


Was the noise caused by the failed bearing similar to the one in this video I just recorded, or is this noise "normal", and I?m just a bit paranoid?
https://youtu.be/I2NDuYqBdFw

Thank you guys, and sorry for the ramblings.
 
Once again, sorry for the refloat, but I rather keep issues under the same post (please let me know if you guys prefer otherwise).
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Please don't - the original thread is dead and buried from over two years ago....but well done for using the Search tool!  8)
 
If it doesn't seem to be getting any worse I'd suggest running it as it is and keeping an eye on it until the next scheduled rebuild...could last a month: might last another 10 years!
 
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