How to silence your Jota pipes?

The baffling material seems to be the trick re reducing db. My old 2/1 was half as loud (not measured - perceived) when I used to pull out the baffle and repack it. New 2-1-2 sys has a long perf baffle tube in each side, probably 600mm in length and lots of space around them for packing. No power robbing plates inside - taper something like 45mm ID at entry and about 55mm at exit. Will know soon enough how effective it is. High comp tends to increase db quite a bit, and I'm running 10.25:1.
 
Something simple like this in a 3 into 1 quietens it down quiet a bit. Could make something similar for Jota cans.
 

Attachments

  • EB3A9873-9BF9-49BB-A3A1-59CDA040202A.jpeg
    EB3A9873-9BF9-49BB-A3A1-59CDA040202A.jpeg
    88 KB · Views: 23
  • E06AD017-B602-4B52-85BA-B5546DA6C9A0.jpeg
    E06AD017-B602-4B52-85BA-B5546DA6C9A0.jpeg
    122.8 KB · Views: 22
I've never actually done it, but I think I'd tackle it by making a new baffle tube. My plan would go something like this ...

1. Cut around the outlet tube in the end of the silencer. Make it a large hole so all you're left with is an internal (female?) flange around the perimeter (about 10mm wide) that you can use to fix a new baffle system onto. Remove the short "baffle" tube and chuck it in the bin.
2. Make up a new baffle tube with a flange near the end, so it looks the same externally as the original tail pipe, but has a longer tube to extend into the muffler. I reckon you'd need about a 300mm length of tube, but the length may depend on how much silencing you want to achieve.
4. Drill a heap of perforations through the inner part of the baffle tube, then wrap acoustic fibre (fibreglass mat) around the perforated tube and secure it with a further wrapping of tie wire. Obviously, it needs to fit into the hole in the end of the muffler, so don't make it too thick.
5. Insert the new baffle tube into the muffler, drill 3 or 4 holes through both the baffle flange and the 'female' flange in the end of the muffler and pop-rivet the new baffle in place.

It would look very similar to a standard Jota exhaust can. The only difference will be the end plate and fixings for the removeable baffle.

As far as I'm aware, nobody is using acoustic cameras in Australia yet. But if they're starting to be used by authorities in Europe, it'll end up here sooner or later. Such devices are way more accurate than roadside sound level meters.

I've done a lot of racebike mufflers. Lengthening the internal perf tube is a good start. It must be supported at the inner end though. I've made up a cross shaped plate in 16G Zintec bored to fit on the perf tube and welded there. The arms of the cross are then bent back so they can be inserted into the can as a tightish push fit. Wrap the perf tube in a good silencing medium - I get glass mat from a Kart shop and cut to size - wire it on.
Insert and rivet the outer end cover in place. I don't fasten the inner support, it floats.
I used to be able to buy perf tube down to 1 inch OD but supplies have dried up and it now starts at 1 1/2 inch - or 38mm.
A center tube of 2 inch OD perf tube around 400mm long and well wrapped is enough to drop a full house 1000/4 to 95DB. Without loss of power.

The two local tracks are both regulated to 95DB - as a ride by the sound meter about 30 meters off the track. Pete's 1200 in my avatar passes easily.
 
No, they are enforcing given rules. Jota pipes put out 111dB on my bike. That was never legal for a Jota build 1981...

Cops specialized on noise regulations start to stop loud bikes, test them locally and even take the exhaust off of the bike as an evidence against later claims. With absolutely no damping else than the Helmholz tube (and some even don't have that...), there is barely a chance you pass that regulation - especially if you do not know how to argue based on the laws... Fortunately, there are different ways of measuring and the method depends on the year but also on what is entered in the papers. One wrong letter can get you in VERY BIG and VERY EXPENSIVE trouble, even if the letter was entered at a certain point in time simply by mistake.
 
So the Germans are applying new regulations retrospectively to older vehicles, I can't see that.
As you likely know, pukka "Jota" cans have never, ever been legal in Germany. German Jotas were badge-only, no special engine internals, no special exhaust. "Real" Jotas were never homologated for legal road use here, those badged as Jotas were registered on the former 3CL homologation.

New regulations cannot be applied to older vehicles, with a few exceptions concerning safety, such as brake lights. This applies mainly to pre-war vehicles, as most post-war vehicles had the equipment still in use today. If your Jota has passed its TÜV inspection sporting Jota cans, it is down to the pure goodwill of the inspector. At a roadside check, the authorities can/will check noise according to what is stated in your vehicle documents. If your Jota was imported and registered in Germany after its registration elsewhere, it would have to comply to all german regulations in force at the time of its first registration, irrespective of where it was first registered. Of course, nobody will seriously inquire what cams and pistons are fitted, but exhausts are just too obvious to ignore.

Strictly speaking, a vehicle not complying to regulations in certain aspects can be impounded on the spot. This can often be witnessed on sunny summer weekends in Barweiler, just up the road a bit from the Nürburgring. Happily, classics are mostly immune, with cops usually turning a goodwill blind eye, unless you've really, really over-cooked it. Moreoften, their equipment will not cope with olden days technology, measuring procedures have changed, just as the limits themselves.

Many owners argue that because they have an absurdly loud standstill noise level (Standgeräusch) entered in their documents, they can therefore legally race around the countryside making a nuisance of themselves. A lesser-known fact, is that this noise emmission is not regulated at all! What is regulated though, is the noise on the move (Fahrgeräusch). This cannot be altered from what was in force and entered on the day of first registration and remains the limit for any particular vehicle thoughout its life. Simple physics dictate that a bike making 105dB at standstill at certain revs, cannot possibly be any quieter when driving at the same revs. The "Fahrgeräusch" limit for old '70s/'80s clonkers will be somewhere around 84-89dB. TÜV inspectors are quite willing to change the "Standgeräusch" in vehicle documents when "approving" exhaust systems, but won't touch the "Fahrgeräusch", simply because they are not legally allowed to. So, no matter from which angle you look at it, you're stuck with what's been entered in the documents. No legal modern aftermarket exhaust system is allowed to be louder than the regulation applying to the vehicle to which it is to be fitted, on its day of first registration. What the owner does with baffles or dB-eaters etc is his business. it's his own neck he's sticking out.

Reminds me, I really have to do something about my insanely loud 3C exhaust...:rolleyes:

piet
 
and may I add: many of the ones stopped are bikers from Belgium or Netherlands, but not all of them. Many have their dB-eaters taken out and smart ones take them with them, as that might (!) prevent the cops to take the muffler off the bike. They typically write a fin (and double the amount, as they broke the law by will...), make sure they screw the dB eater in again and let them drive away. No guarantee though they do...
 
And yet the very vehicles the cops drive, emit ear piecing siren wails, way above the dB's they don't like on other vehicles.
They just don't play fair these day ........... they are taking the fun out of the age old game of 'Cat and Mouse'
 
As you likely know, pukka "Jota" cans have never, ever been legal in Germany. German Jotas were badge-only, no special engine internals, no special exhaust. "Real" Jotas were never homologated for legal road use here, those badged as Jotas were registered on the former 3CL homologation.

New regulations cannot be applied to older vehicles, with a few exceptions concerning safety, such as brake lights. This applies mainly to pre-war vehicles, as most post-war vehicles had the equipment still in use today. If your Jota has passed its TÜV inspection sporting Jota cans, it is down to the pure goodwill of the inspector. At a roadside check, the authorities can/will check noise according to what is stated in your vehicle documents. If your Jota was imported and registered in Germany after its registration elsewhere, it would have to comply to all german regulations in force at the time of its first registration, irrespective of where it was first registered. Of course, nobody will seriously inquire what cams and pistons are fitted, but exhausts are just too obvious to ignore.

Strictly speaking, a vehicle not complying to regulations in certain aspects can be impounded on the spot. This can often be witnessed on sunny summer weekends in Barweiler, just up the road a bit from the Nürburgring. Happily, classics are mostly immune, with cops usually turning a goodwill blind eye, unless you've really, really over-cooked it. Moreoften, their equipment will not cope with olden days technology, measuring procedures have changed, just as the limits themselves.

Many owners argue that because they have an absurdly loud standstill noise level (Standgeräusch) entered in their documents, they can therefore legally race around the countryside making a nuisance of themselves. A lesser-known fact, is that this noise emmission is not regulated at all! What is regulated though, is the noise on the move (Fahrgeräusch). This cannot be altered from what was in force and entered on the day of first registration and remains the limit for any particular vehicle thoughout its life. Simple physics dictate that a bike making 105dB at standstill at certain revs, cannot possibly be any quieter when driving at the same revs. The "Fahrgeräusch" limit for old '70s/'80s clonkers will be somewhere around 84-89dB. TÜV inspectors are quite willing to change the "Standgeräusch" in vehicle documents when "approving" exhaust systems, but won't touch the "Fahrgeräusch", simply because they are not legally allowed to. So, no matter from which angle you look at it, you're stuck with what's been entered in the documents. No legal modern aftermarket exhaust system is allowed to be louder than the regulation applying to the vehicle to which it is to be fitted, on its day of first registration. What the owner does with baffles or dB-eaters etc is his business. it's his own neck he's sticking out.

Reminds me, I really have to do something about my insanely loud 3C exhaust...:rolleyes:

piet
Thanks for the info. I never knew that.
 
I used to have Armours "baffled" version of stainless Jota silencers on a high compression 1200. They had a restrictive plate about half way down the central tube. Exhaust note was about half way between standard lafranconis and normal jota, i. e very nice! I don't recall any noticeable dip in performance but I'm sure there would have been at the top end at least.
I also bought my jota tune 3cl with an unnamed and outrageously loud and obnoxious 3:1 on it, way beyond a jota in volume. It is very much part of the endurance look of the bike though, so even with my misgivings on the effectiveness of 3:1s on 180 triples in general I have attempted to quieten it. I used a long perforated tube wrapped in acousta-fil (Google it) which expands with heat. Works well in terms of the noise but IS restrictive at top end. I suspect exit hole is too small (and maybe it was always restrictive but your ears exploded before peak revs?)
For those on this thread who find it incredulous that anyone who rides a laverda could care less about any of this, ask yourself how much you "enjoy" the sound of gangster rap from that hot hatchback at full blast, and how much you admire the "fuck em" attitude of the driver?
 
I used to have Armours "baffled" version of stainless Jota silencers on a high compression 1200. They had a restrictive plate about half way down the central tube. Exhaust note was about half way between standard lafranconis and normal jota, i. e very nice! I don't recall any noticeable dip in performance but I'm sure there would have been at the top end at least.
I also bought my jota tune 3cl with an unnamed and outrageously loud and obnoxious 3:1 on it, way beyond a jota in volume. It is very much part of the endurance look of the bike though, so even with my misgivings on the effectiveness of 3:1s on 180 triples in general I have attempted to quieten it. I used a long perforated tube wrapped in acousta-fil (Google it) which expands with heat. Works well in terms of the noise but IS restrictive at top end. I suspect exit hole is too small (and maybe it was always restrictive but your ears exploded before peak revs?)
For those on this thread who find it incredulous that anyone who rides a laverda could care less about any of this, ask yourself how much you "enjoy" the sound of gangster rap from that hot hatchback at full blast, and how much you admire the "fuck em" attitude of the driver?
I think those lads are actually trying to attract attention to themselves whilst I would rather not draw too much attention to myself when I'm having fun.
 
I think those lads are actually trying to attract attention to themselves whilst I would rather not draw too much attention to myself when I'm having fun.
Agreed, but the riding friend of mine (actually a friend of a friend) who put an unbaffled yoshi on his Hyabusa is doing the same thing?
 
I just installed a Dominator muffler on my daughters MuZ 660, it came with a db killer which was just a smaller dia. tube that slipped in the outlet. Needless to say it didn't do much in reducing the sound so I plugged the inner end [about 35mm] and drilled 8 10mm holes in the side of the tube to approximate the area of the plugged end. It drastically reduced the raspy/harsh exhaust note while still providing a solid thump to let you know it's running and no apparent drop of power. I would imagine the same could be done to Jota pipes with relative ease. Experimenting with length and holes could tailor the sound to your liking.
 
Back
Top