If you want to re-torque headbolts on a 750 SF....

Well, Boetje. I like your wrench extension. I' have a bunch of "special" spanners like that for a variety of jobs.
I have something very similar to your gadget for torquing bevel Ducati heads. You can't get a socket on the nuts because of the shape of the cam box.
 

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Why don't you just drop the engine like I pictured and torque the head properly - It only takes an afternoon with your Breganzie and you will love it and she will love you - Before she kills you - LOL.

I would not trust that extension for proper torque readings. I will endlessly argue against using that tool ;o)
 
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Laverda SF said:
I would not trust that extension for proper torque readings. I will endlessly argue against using that tool ;o)
Click to expand...

There's no practical or technical reason not to trust an extension on a torque wrench if you know what you're doing. It's just a tool - no more, no less. I suspect what you really mean is that you wouldn't trust yourself to use it properly.
You may as well say that you don't trust a hammer because it might hit the wrong spot (it's not the hammer's fault).

It would take 15 mins to make a tool like Boetje's (after buying a cheapo spanner and socket to use as raw materials) then another 15 to torque the head. Better than spending an afternoon dismantling half the bike to do it. If you're working on a bike for someone else, it'll save the customer a couple of hundred bucks in labour cost.
 
Not a waste of time at all Boetje. You have shared an idea and there are some good points from some contributors growing among the weeds. Don't get put off. We used to have a short ring spanner device with a short flat off the side for a 1/2" drive, if you can picture that.
 
You might get away by using your trustworthy torque wrench and calabrating it directly on a nut with a socket then compare it to using that hoop extension ?

Why not just just drop the engine - for the sake of a questionable tool ?

You still have to inspect the head bolts for oil seepage around the copper washers - None of this makes sense to me when the proper procedure is obvious.

I've ran a 70 Breganzie 750 SF for over 45 years - Listen to me or suffer grief !

Believe me, she's a precise demanding bitch for MAX performance that wants to kill you - not the fastest but fast enough to win races if you have the practice and guts ;o)
 
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BOETJE said:
Me , cranky ?.. hell no.
I'm just astonished how threads on this forum spin way out of controll so often.... .
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Out of control...? Nah, all good here. Wait till Ron really gets going!

I've been using something similar for Zane 750 head nuts, truely inaccessable for torqueing otherwise. 3/8" drive "crows feet" sockets/extensions(?) work quite OK on the Breganze twins, the 5 minutes of fiddling getting them in place is well worth it. The very slight torque alteration is negligable, there's more friction differential in the nuts and washers. If it does cause concern, the same tool can be used for the more accessable nuts as well, then all are more or less the same. Slim 3/8" drive 17mm sockets can be modified to slip in between the frame rails, a wobbly extension works fine.

I've found quite large tolerances in frame construction, sometimes the modded socket slips in easily, sometimes I wouldn't get it in with the aid of a hammer, hence the crows' feet.

It's not fucken' rocket surgery... ;)

piet
 
Yeah, the "crows foot" extensions have been around for ages. I've got my old man's collection of spanners from the 20's and 30's - and postwar.
He seems to have gone with cheap but good stuff for the conventional sockets and spanners - but there are some really odd shaped specials that must have been factory tools for pre-war cars or bikes. Still find the odd one useful today.
The garage sale after I die will have a few people puzzled as to what some of them are for, LOL.

Piet - to extend what I said the other day, watching videos of our local (NZ) Rocketlab mob, Rocket surgery appears to be done with battery tools.....
 
Two questions:

- when re-torque do you just reach the right load or before to start unscrew all nuts and then start the right sequence?

- is necessary, in order to lean over the engine as shown in pictures, open the drive chain?

Thanks 👍👍
 
Love..rda said:
Two questions:

- when re-torque do you just reach the right load or before to start unscrew all nuts and then start the right sequence?

- is necessary, in order to lean over the engine as shown in pictures, open the drive chain?

Thanks 👍👍
Click to expand...
Back off a bit on the nuts to retorque.
You don't need to open final drive chain to tilt the engine but you need to slacken it completely.

Paul
 
OK, also some "mustard" from my side for this thread:

I've been using a self-made cranked nut since 2012 and it works perfectly.
The "angle nut" must be used at a 90 ° angle to the torque. In this case, the length = force remains the same, since the attachment point of the nut is on an arc of a circle for normal attachment.
If used as an extension (like in the picture), the torque wrench would trigger incorrectly.

Winkelnuss 3 klein A.jpg

You can also buy part 4550-1 from HAZET (tip from Lothar): e.g.: Hazet

Back then, the guys in Breganze invented a part like that. That should work even better than my cranked version.
I think that shows, that such a tool has its place.

wrenchforthecentraheadretainingnut.JPG

Thomas aus LAU
 
Wifey : what are you doing?
Me: Posting a picture of my tool on the Internet.....

Piet mentions using a waisted 3/8 socket above. Here's mine. It's getting a bit thin around the square drive now as I keep shaving a bit more off as different bikes come along.

IMG_20240601_133630.jpg
 
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Tippie said:
Not a waste of time at all Boetje. You have shared an idea and there are some good points from some contributors growing among the weeds. Don't get put off. We used to have a short ring spanner device with a short flat off the side for a 1/2" drive, if you can picture that.
Click to expand...
Know as a crowsfoot in these parts.
 
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