Ignitech backfire

Robin Webster

Robin Webster

Hero member
Location
Silverstone
Hi, on the 12th July my 3C popped, backfired and stopped. I’ve not had it running since.
I have replaced the battery, the plugs, an Electrix World RR and now fitted a new Ignitech box and their single and double coils ( single to pot 2, double to 1 & 3). They have a connector block that fits the OE wiring block. It does away with the red power wire which I used to connect to their supplied red power cable to the ignition unit. No spark.
I then connected their supplied red cable to the battery via a 15amp fuse and plugged that in which gave me strong spark at the plug but the bike would not start and backfired. I have tried swopping the orange/red coil supply wires with the white/red wires from the other coil but that did not work, so now it is orange/red to coil 2 and white/red to coil 1&3.
The only thing I can think now is timing but it was running on the 12th July.

Getting fed up.
Robin
 
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Quick unedified suggestion, crank encoder and or connecting cable, check for cable damage through the tunnel or contact with the alternator flywheel. Perhaps there is a diagnostic for pickups available via comms cable to assist. HTH j
 
If you're getting spark, it might be worth checking with a strobe at cranking speed to give a basic idea where it's firing. I had an issue where my unit was sposmadically firing at 50deg BTDC and not moving with rise or fall of revs (dso advance function wasn't operating). Was associated with leading edge-trailing edge of advance sensor. But mine would at least start - so yours could well have a loose trigger that is miles out.
 
Guys, which is the trigger? What am I looking for? If it is the part with the coils attached that has been replaced by the Ignitech box. Is it with the charging system on the end of the crank?
Thanks for your help.
 

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Robin Webster said:
Guys, which is the trigger? What am I looking for? If it is the part with the coils attached that has been replaced by the Ignitech box. Is it with the charging system on the end of the crank?
Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
The trigger is the round sleeve held on the end of the crank by three grub screws in which are imbedded two small magnets which trigger the signal.
Paul
 
????? The photo is of oem Bosch HKZ, where does the Ignitech replaced come into this, Universe is not aligned....

Need to search the data base here and past postings on HKZ remedies, plenty of information to assist you Robin with a search. j
 
Quote... hey have a connector block that fits the OE wiring block. It does away with the red power wire which I used to connect to their supplied red power cable to the ignition unit. No spark.

The red wire from the stator plate is the 400Vac exciter coil that powers the HKZ internal SCR clamped HT rail, ie 350VDC for the CDI function, if i read this posting correctly. Without the exciter there is no spark possible.
 
iis_iis said:
????? The photo is of oem Bosch HKZ, where does the Ignitech replaced come into this, Universe is not aligned....

Need to search the data base here and past postings on HKZ remedies, plenty of information to assist you Robin with a search. j
Click to expand...
iis_iis said:
Quote... hey have a connector block that fits the OE wiring block. It does away with the red power wire which I used to connect to their supplied red power cable to the ignition unit. No spark.

The red wire from the stator plate is the 400Vac exciter coil that powers the HKZ internal SCR clamped HT rail, ie 350VDC for the CDI function, if i read this posting correctly. Without the exciter there is no spark possible.
Click to expand...

Hi, before I asked on here as to what was the trigger the delights of Google/ebay showed the trigger as the HKZ, which is why I posted the pick. The connector block that fits the HKZ plugs into the Ignitech wiring loom. The original red feed in that connector now appears to be redundant.
 
I think Robin has bowled us a googly by nailing up a photo of an HKZ ignition which is not of his own bike's arrangement. He seemed pretty clear that he has replaced the Ignitech box and fitted new HT coils. The comment about redundant red wire (from the exciter coil as John iis-iis says) would be correct if running an Ignitech. However, It would be useful to completely remove the wire from the connector to avoid 350v tracking across to other terminals! Ideally bin the exciter coil in the alternator and replace with second charging coil.

But the backfiring issue (with Ignitech) is likely due to issues previously identified in this thread -
crank encoder and or connecting cable, check for cable damage through the tunnel or contact with the alternator flywheel.
and
yours could well have a loose trigger that is miles out.

This pic shows the arrangement under the alternator flywheel - you can see the twin lobe trigger on the crankshaft nose, retained by a spring in very early bikes and grubscrew later. The trigger coil (black topped items) wiring is retained by bent metal clips. The wiring insulation becomes brittle with age/heat and fails, causing misfiring/no spark.


9A311A18-3E47-4801-BD8D-BD2AA67F7458.jpeg
 
It'll be useful to know whether it is a Redax type Ignitech using the hall effect pickups etc, or an inductive system based on the original ones. The symptoms sound the same as when the trigger rotor came loose and went way out of time on my RGA many moons ago. Post a pic under the RH cover as per Rob's pic above.
 
breganzane said:
It'll be useful to know whether it is a Redax type Ignitech using the hall effect pickups etc, or an inductive system based on the original ones. The symptoms sound the same as when the trigger rotor came loose and went way out of time on my RGA many moons ago. Post a pic under the RH cover as per Rob's pic above.
Click to expand...
It’s the inductive type with original pickups. I bought it from the factory in Czech Republic. Hopefully get to it this afternoon. I have a medical condition and I’ve just slept for 17 hours.
Cheers.
 
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