Ignition flange puller

[olly]

I'm told the puller to remove the "flange (retaining automatic spark advance)" has hooks on it.
Any reason why using the screw holes circled is a no no?
Thanks

 

[Paul Marx]

No
Use the screw holes of course.

Paul

 

[redax5]

puller I made uses the 5mm threaded holes, no issue at all

 

[sfcpiet]

I'm told the puller to remove the "flange (retaining automatic spark advance)" has hooks on it.
Any reason why using the screw holes circled is a no no?
Thanks

Of course the threads can be used, but the factory puller is just so much less fiddly. By the time you thread the 2 screws through the puller and into the flange, or through the flange against the casing, the factory puller has the flange on the bench. No big deal for the hobby wrencher, but a great help for the pro.

piet

 

[sfcpiet]

I'm told the puller to remove the "flange (retaining automatic spark advance)" has hooks on it.
Any reason why using the screw holes circled is a no no?
Thanks

Of course the threads can be used, but the factory puller is just so much less fiddly. By the time you thread the 2 screws through the puller and into the flange, or through the flange against the casing, the factory puller has the flange on the bench. No big deal for the hobby wrencher, but a great help for the pro.

piet

 

[CLEMTOG]

If you are an ILOC member in the UK, you can borrow the correct puller from the tool library, if you are commuting distance to TN147LS in UK, prorfile on this new fangled forum system dont show me your location) then you can bring your engine (or bike on trailer/in van) over to me and use my factory tool, recently putchased from a useful contact who as an ex dealer and had two of them!
CLEM

 

[phil37]

Just need a metal plate and an allen screw to extract the A/R assy - see photo

 

[olly]

Cheers for replies. By the time I got back him to say you guys use the screw holes he’d already made a tool like the factory one. Oh well, never mind.

 

[Tippie]

I have always got it off with two long screws into the holes and just grab them with my hands or two pairs of pliers and wriggle it off.

 

[pf1]

I've just taken all that gubbins off my latest SF2 acquisition, it all came apart without any problem at all, didn't even know you needed a puller. However the rest of the engine is another story altogether, it is totally rusted up inside.

 

[olly]

Uh oh - only a litre of syrupy oil in there - will update once he's looked in the strainer.

 

[Exmoor beast]

I've just taken all that gubbins off my latest SF2 acquisition, it all came apart without any problem at all, didn't even know you needed a puller. However the rest of the engine is another story altogether, it is totally rusted up inside.

This is your Brown project- worse or better than you thought?Doable?

 

[Paul Marx]

I have always got it off with two long screws into the holes and just grab them with my hands or two pairs of pliers and wriggle it off.

I have always got it off with two long screws as well.
Sometimes, I grab them with my hands.
( You get a sermon on the ILOC forum for a mechanical comment like that.)

Paul

 

[pf1]

This is your Brown project- worse or better than you thought?Doable?

It will have to go to the back of the queue but I'll sort it, sometimes you are lucky and sometimes not

 

[olly]

Uh oh - only a litre of syrupy oil in there - will update once he's looked in the strainer.

Magnetic metal filings on the oil (black treacle) - not tons but big enough and nasty enough.
Might get him to keep taking it apart, clean up all the cases and gasket surfaces etc then send it off to Keith up in Scotland or someone similar to repair and rebuild.

He's figuring out a way to fix these weedy and stripped threads at the moment - DPO stuffed them. I'd like him to weld up and re-drill but he's not keen.

 

[piranha-bro2]

Not uncommon - 45 years of fiddling and threads in that thin metal base often give up the ghost. Weld and rethread is easy and a good idea. Strip the whole donk and sus what's required. It could well be that removing surface rust and replacing all roller and ball bearings will get it usable - and pray that the big ends don't have rust in them. Rebuilding an SF crank isn't rocket science but will hurt the budget of anyone who can't do it themselves (many!).

 

[olly]

Ah mines not rusty. It’s very noisy. Stupidly thought the oil leak at Baskerville hall wasn’t too bad so drove 100 miles and it seems a good proportion of that had only a litre of sludge oil in the engine.

 

[olly]

He's figuring out a way to fix these weedy and stripped threads at the moment - DPO stuffed them. I'd like him to weld up and re-drill but he's not keen.