Impact wrench recommendations for primary drive nut

piranha-bro2

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Melbourne
You groovers. Any tips on a workable impact driver that will probably only ever be used to fit and remove the primary drive 'jesus' nut on the Lav cranks, so not really keen on mortgaging the house for one, such as the $1500 options out there? Is a 1/2 inch drive 240V one good enough to do the job right? Does it have to have torque adjustment?

I've used the steel block between sprockets in the past but want to graduate from that school.

Muchas gracias all you experts.
 
You groovers. Any tips on a workable impact driver that will probably only ever be used to fit and remove the primary drive 'jesus' nut on the Lav cranks, so not really keen on mortgaging the house for one, such as the $1500 options out there? Is a 1/2 inch drive 240V one good enough to do the job right? Does it have to have torque adjustment?

I've used the steel block between sprockets in the past but want to graduate from that school.

Muchas gracias all you experts.
Q I have a 1/2 inch drive rattle gun that pulls up to about 80 ft /lb your welcome to borrow but considering we are all locked apart that probably aint going to work :cry:
 
Big difference between a an electric rattle gun and say a 5hp compressed air Ignrosal Rand.
 
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What about an 18-volt Makita cordless. Handy for building jobs as well, if it does work to Jesus Levels? They have the power to drive those bugle headed tech screws with no piolet holes needed.
 
Q I have a 1/2 inch drive rattle gun that pulls up to about 80 ft /lb your welcome to borrow but considering we are all locked apart that probably aint going to work :cry:
Thanks Maurizio - yeah, the ol' lockdown saga - it's affecting every part of my life! Do you find that yours has been adequate for the crank nut? Ingersoll pneumatics are about $1500!!
 
What about an 18-volt Makita cordless. Handy for building jobs as well, if it does work to Jesus Levels? They have the power to drive those bugle headed tech screws with no piolet holes needed.
Most come as skins and that adds a lot to cost for battery and charge system - for something I'll rarely use. Mainly want to know if the sub-$100 ones will suffice.

Ron, I'd love a big pneumatic - I've got the compressor part, but can't justify the cost of the fancy pneumatics.
 
When I went from "home workshop" to "trade" the best thing I brought with me was a 1/2in drive Ingersoll Rand rattle gun. From memory I'd picked it up in a dealer clear-out in about 1984. It's been used heavily and often. It gets oil roughly once a decade. It's outlived three compressors so far.

The only things that have beaten it are the clutch nuts on big, late model Kawasakis - which from the factory have a parallel portion on the nut which is hydraulically crimped onto the shaft. I borrow a 3/4in gun for those.

I note amongst the profusion of tools from China a few quite nice looking 1/2in drive kits. I know people who have bought them and seem quite happy with them too. Here they seem to be less than $200NZ. It is after all a tool. Which gets used and abused.
 
dont bother to buy one
get a locking tool, they are available from a chap in Lisbon Ireland on ebay and a 32mm socket that fits inside the locking tool (not all 32 sockets are the same od)
then you can just swing on a long tee bar and get the sucker on and off at your will, and even use a torque wrench if you feel the need, I always clean the thread with meths or brake cleaner, (internal and external) with a brush, apply Loctite, and a new tab washer, tighten it to absolute death and then bend the washer, dont run engine for 24 hours, although the last bit is definitely overkill.
CLEM
 
Probably not available in OZ, but electric blue industrial Bosch rattle guns do the job without any hassle.
I have an old 1/2" drive version, probably from the late 1970's, which is indestructible.
Contrary to the (again) incorrect information it is also capable of torquing the Jesus nut on my twins and triple.
Checked with a calibrated Hazet torque wrench.

Gerald
 
Thanks y'all for feedback thus far - I would like a locking tool - but can I make one that fits the 750 crank sprocket. I thought the triple ones fit into the two holes they have - which the 750s don't have. If it's as simple as drilling the holes, I'll do that. Not gonna buy and ship a tool from Ireland in the current slow-as world of shipping, Clem, but Tom, can you post a pic of yours?

I've never had a nut come loose and have used the steel block method many times, but the last time ... snap! Off came a tooth - so never again.
 
Quentin, the 750 locking tool fits over the oil pump drive gear.

A couple of years ago I bought an AOK pneumatic rattle gun, made in Taiwan, but says designed in Oz on the label. Plenty strong enough to loosen the Jesus nut, even manages to un-do drive shaft nuts on the Skoda (tightened to 200+ Nm!) at 6.5 bar air line pressure. Reckon it'll manage a little more if I up the pressure a bit. Anyway, well pleased with the gun, and very affordable. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/263929676355

piet
 
this thread is a 'must read'
 
Biggest issue in the workshop is single sided Ducati rear wheel nuts, 55mm. MV Agusta the same, but left hand thread. I have 3 rattle guns at work, all snap on. Big 1/2 inch, stubby 1/2 inch, 3/8ths. Sometimes big rattle can't undo Ducati, have broken a 1/2 breaker bar, 3 foot long with a fork tube over the end of it. That one was tight. I never use them to do up the wheel nuts, only to loosen. My rattle gun at home is a no name $100 cheapie, works really well on lav Jesus nuts.
 
I also have a no-name cheapie 1/2" drive pneumatic rattle gun. No issues so far using it on Laverda Jesus nut. It will tighten the nut OK but I don't think it has enough grunt to do any damage.
 
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