jota silencers stainless

As long as you have the correct pipes in the right places I have found it most advantageous to assemble the whole lot loosely, make sure you are happy with positioning, then progressively tighten all fasteners.

This way I believe you don't introduce stresses that could come home to haunt you later!

I have Armour silencers which are great, but they have cracked at the front welded bracket - so I fitted exhaust clamps over the top which is a much better idea.

The next set will be Keihan! They are slightly pricier, but most probably worth it!
 
As I understand, you have C for center and if the other two are not identical you also have left and right.
Main difference is the angle of the ring at the cilinder head. If you mount them wrong the pipes will not fit the collector or the head if you put them in the collector first. If they don? t fit, just swap.
 
when I take mine off, I don't realyy take them apart, I remove the silencers first, then loosen the clamp where the three front pipes are poked into the collector, then wrap a strap around the exhaust and up and over the seat, to join to itself, next remove the roses at the head, then remove this whole assembly as one, wiggling the pipes about a bit, but not actually detaching them from the collector, reverse this for refitting, except assemble everything finger tight only, and once happy start to tighten from the head and work down the system to the silencer hangers, tightening up about two or three steps at a time, and always retighten the roses after two or three heat cycles. I use extended blind end brass domed nuts (custom made) and I wire them as well. No corrosion on the exposed stud threads.
CLEM
 

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Hi Clem,
I'd be in the market for another set or two of those domed brass nuts if you have any left?
rgds AndyW  8) 8)
 
Paul Marx said:
Find some brass hex bar, cut, drill, tap.

Paul

4201714_0.jpg
 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
Don't know about triples, but twins already have brass M8 nuts securing the headers at the head. is there an adv to domed?

As Clem mentions, protects the thread on the stud and avoids that very disagreeable moment when the stud comes out with the nut.
Makes it easier to lockwire as well.

Paul
 
Those roses look non original, Clem..mine are too though I cant remember where i bought them!. The originals can bow after probably overtightening over time, and then you dont achieve a goodseal. I think lockwiring is beyond me and have not seen the need.
 
nick7 said:
Those roses look non original, Clem..mine are too though I cant remember where i bought them!. The originals can bow after probably overtightening over time, and then you dont achieve a goodseal. I think lockwiring is beyond me and have not seen the need.


I was just thinking how good those roses looked and wouldn't mind a set to go with the nuts...
 
I have experienced my own and others losing a single nut on the road doing long trips, this is where I discovered the need,
In an emergency you can rob a lock nut from the chain adjusters and you can get going again, but I have seen the single nut tightened up on its own and cracked the rose, lockwired means they stay put and quick to check visually, the extended brass dome, removes the element where the exposed steel thread on the stud rots, which on removal usually means the stud comes out of the head, leave it frozen in there is what I say, the extra brass can only add a bit of extra heat sink, never a bad thing, In the past I have used brass nuts, and copper flange nuts (still got 100's of those) but for me the best and trouble free is.... what you see in the pics, not exactly hard to make with hand tools, but much better to make on a lathe, then the flat end is square, the thread square with the body, and the dome uniform, and as Paul states the engineer I use for this starts with 11mm hexagon brass bar.

I have a few left (haven't looked yet) but not enough to be able to give to all those who want them, I might get some more made, but only if Brew face will accept a set as a peace offering, and Nickdav7 fits a set and removes his pink Goodridge oil lines, and fits a new set of plated ones from Wolfgang.
CLEM
 
Youve gone off on a tangent again Clem....the Roses?? Bowing, new ones etc...and I like the oil lines as they are same style as the V6😉
 
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