Laverda badge.

[Lavermax]

I wanted to restore the fuel tank and side panels of a 1000 3C, and I wanted to know if the screws holding the Laverda logo were at the time stainless steel, since in many photos they appear completely oxidized.



And if the side panel logo was held in place with glue or with two pins:



Thank you.

 

[Paul Marx]

No, bronze.
Paul

 

[The Sock]

Chrome plated brass, on my 3cE when new, until the chrome peeled off.
Polished stainless steel is a perfect substitute for all but the most obsessive rivet counter.

 

[Perry]

Oh now that's interesting. I always have my badge screws in the horizontal plane. You've got me thinking now

 

[Andy]

Oh now that's interesting. I always have my badge screws in the horizontal plane. You've got me thinking now

I’ve always liked a vertical slot

 

[Perry]

That's just western bias.

 

[Schurminater]

Horizontal for me too

 

[MarnixSFC]

Random for me. Stop when tight.

Marnix

 

[Lavermax]

So if I understood correctly, the Laverda emblem on the first 750 S was gold plated with bronze screws, while the 1973 1000 3C had a silver emblem with chromed bronze screws. Is that correct?

750S


1000 3C

 

[The Sock]

So if I understood correctly, the Laverda emblem on the first 750 S was gold plated with bronze screws, while the 1973 1000 3C had a silver emblem with chromed bronze screws. Is that correct?

750S
View attachment 100623

1000 3C
View attachment 100624

I don't know enough about the first 750S or '73 1000s, but I can confirm that my '76 Triple came with chromed brass screws, from which the chrome peeled, after about ten years. I left them that way, intending to get them rechromed at some point, but finally replaced them with stainless, back in the teens.
Pretty much like on your 750 S pic, this is how they looked, unchromed:

 

[CLEMTOG]

slots at 45 degrees if poss, but agree with Marnix, tighten correctly, and leave it there.
CLEM

 

[Vince]

My shame, I have stainless alan heads, so no orientation required.

 

[piranha-bro2]

Have never in 50 years of ownership given it a second thought. It's a screw, with a thread that you wind in until it is tight enough that it won't fall out. But then, there isn't one single rivet on my bike

 

[sfcpiet]

The brass screws would probably have been nickel plated, most of which will have worn/fallen off by now.

Engineers position the screw slots at 45°...

piet

 

[andre g]

The brass screws would probably have been nickel plated, most of which will have worn/fallen off by now.

Engineers position the screw slots at 45°...

piet

exactly 46°14′06.70″ for the rivet counters,
good luck by adjusting

 

[piranha-bro2]

exactly 46°14′06.70″ for the rivet counters,
good luck by adjusting

There's a factory tool for the alignment - no longer available, but they weren't cheap even back then at 180 euro

 

[Tippie]

Piet can supply countersunk shims so that they are tight at the correct angle.

 

[Schurminater]

Shimstock behind the badge works just as well................

 

[sfcpiet]

Piet can supply countersunk shims so that they are tight at the correct angle.

Just need a couple of dozen screws to try, you eventually find a set that fits perfectly. Called "attention to detail"... or rivet counting!

This was a big thing with my master when I was in my apprenticeship, he'd pull out a protractor to check the angle if it didn't look right at first glance! Slotted screws were still in widespread use at the time. I sometimes even had to make custom screws if the stuff out of the drawer wasn't good enough. Fiddly, but it does develope a sense of pride in your work.

piet

 

[Lavermax]

I'm very picky and like to understand every detail when I tackle a restoration; however, I'm pleased to see how my new thread generate a touch of good humor in this interesting forum.

I still haven't figured out whether the brass screws were nickel-plated or chrome-plated, but above all, why they were made of brass and not steel; there was definitely an underlying technical reason.