@RGSteve you will almost certainly find a lot more success (and fun) in rolling up the sleeves and solving it yourself. The biggest pain in working on an RGS is the removal of the tank and fairing but even those are super-simple compared with modern stuff. You'll need to hold a finger over the breather pipe near the steering head as the tank is removed - it's easier if the tank is at half full or less. Beyond that they are still pretty simple devices if approached with respect and caution. If you've a modicum of spannering empathy you should have no problem, or perhaps enroll in a bike maintenance course if such a thing exists in trade schools etc near you. Youtube can contain some total shite, but has an awful lot of golden info (not necessarily Laverda-specific but you get the vibe).
Full workshop manuals are available here:
www.laverdaforum.com
Retorqueing the head is straightforward* as is checking the valves. Adjusting the valves is more complex, but see if it needs it first. As for carbs, if you're familiar with Dellortos via the Guzzi world then the only difference is the way they're mounted into the bank of three and balanced together. Going back to original jetting usually sees them running fine, which was 65pilot, K1 needle middle notch, AB265 needle jets, 60/2 slides, 108 mains and idle screws 1.5 turns out. If everything is stock and fine that should run pretty well. If you don't have balance gauges you can get carb balance pretty close by setting the gaps under the slides (with carb rack on bench) all the same with a 1/16" diameter drill or similar, then wind back the main idle screw so there's just a small gap under them for installation. If it still has the original Bosch ignition, those are often problematic by now and are best upgraded with a DMC, Sachse or Ignitech but hopefully it has one of those already?
Use the advanced search function here or google a search term followed by "site:laverdaforum.com" and you will find basically everything has been discussed back and forth. Adding the username "sfcpiet" in the "posted by" field in the advanced search is a top tip, he is one of the worlds most experienced Laverda mechanics and has posted here very generously for years - it's an amazing resource. Once you've tried to read up, come back with any questions.
* - noting that the factory RGS manual head torque values are generally agreed to be too high. Most stick to 25ft-lb for the M9 studs and 18ft-lb for the M8 studs. Confusingly, all have 13mm hexes. Searching will reveal extensive discussion clarifying it.