LED headlight conversion

[murphus]

Most LEDs actually fall woefully short of their rated output, and most do not focus the light properly in old lamp shells. They may look bright, but they broadcast poorly. To augment the pathetic output of the stock RGS headlamp, I installed a Hella driving light under the fairing, high beam actuation with appropriate relays. Works very well.

 

[TeddyG]

Yes, a lot of the LEDs are no good and hard to tell which are good and will properly fit. I'll try the Auxito bulb and Kellerman relay. My next project is tracing a wiring or contact switch problem since the headlight and tail periodically cut out w/ either the OEM halogen or LED. Taking the headlight rim on and off is also a challenge- hard to get that spring clip to engage.

 

[Paul Marx]

Even if you can't see where you're going, it's nice to know that you're putting less strain on the electrics.
And the others can see you if they bother looking.
Paul

 

[murphus]

Even if you can't see where you're going, it's nice to know that you're putting less strain on the electrics.
And the others can see you if they bother looking.
Paul

I'm more worried about where I'm going. I stay away from the super slab and stick to back roads as much as I can, and at night, being able to see is a priority. And with relays in place I'm not seeing any strain on the electrics.

 

[piranha-bro2]

I read a detailed article on the light spectrum of LEDs c/w halogen. In Australia seeing beasts on the road is a high priority at night and this article maintain ed that LED light didn't highlight animal fur at all well c/w a well set up halogen. Lee and I used to tour at night with a 60W H4 and a Cibie rectangular 60W driving light all running on relays. Incredible illumination and spread - and it showed that an SF genny actually cranks out plenty of amps once engine revs are 3-4k and above. I'm still going to persevere with LEDs

 

[The Sock]

Yes, a lot of the LEDs are no good and hard to tell which are good and will properly fit. I'll try the Auxito bulb and Kellerman relay……

Taking the headlight rim on and off is also a challenge- hard to get that spring clip to engage.

The Kellerman is an indicator/flasher relay and, therefore, no use to you.

To remove the rim: insert a broad screwdriver blade between the rim and the bowl, at the bottom, and twist.
Refitting: put the rim on, at the top and tap on, with the heel of your hand. It can be useful to have a pair of snipe-nose pliers squeezing the two slots, at the bottom, together.

 

[TeddyG]

thanks Sock,

Since I don,t have turn signals I was wondering if that relay would stop the LED flickering. I,ll try that for the headlight bucket- I thought depressing the spring clip w a screwdriver thru the slot would close and open the rim

 

[Paul Marx]

I'm more worried about where I'm going. I stay away from the super slab and stick to back roads as much as I can, and at night, being able to see is a priority. And with relays in place I'm not seeing any strain on the electrics.

Yes, I hardly ever ride at night. When I very rarely do, it's in an urban area.
A relay will relieve the switchgear, nothing else.
Paul

 

[Vince]

I would think a relay would reduce potential voltage drop thereby allowing a headlight to work at maximum efficiency not beyond but right up to its maximum effect. I also avoid riding at night but when needs must maximum is better than poor. The first time I was caught needing to do a night ride was heading to a club Christmas party and after another bike broke down I found myself doing a 100ish ks in pitch dark heading to Doug R place way out in the bush on a very dark night, the H4 90w130 with relay was amazing. It was the first time ever I could run at 120k plus and not override what I could see. Penetration and spread were impressive, really good fun in fact. Putting my new tent up via torchlight was less fun.

 

[piranha-bro2]

Std triple alternator with that 130W high beam, Vince? I had a pair of Bosch 7" 90/130 H4s in my old Volvo - fukn incredible headlights.

 

[sfcpiet]

Most LEDs actually fall woefully short of their rated output, and most do not focus the light properly in old lamp shells. They may look bright, but they broadcast poorly. To augment the pathetic output of the stock RGS headlamp, I installed a Hella driving light under the fairing, high beam actuation with appropriate relays. Works very well.

Although the stock RGS headlight certainly isn't anything worth writing home about, it isn't really that bad. A new reflector/lens unit with a good quality H4 bulb connected via relay puts out a fair bit of light, about par for the time. The slightest contamination of the reflector will impair light output drastically. New reflector units for H4 bulbs are still readily available in Europe, used in LHD Fiat 126 and 127 models. Still won't keep up with a good 180mm round unit though.

My old Subaru 1800 had fantastic lights, despite their tiny dimensions. Only after the entire dash board electrics went up in smoke did I discover the regulator was allowing a good 18V into the system.

piet

 

[Vince]

Kawasaki Altinator conversion, one of John Wilson's early ones.

 

[Shajota]

Not a fan of LED's. Sick of seeing the monster trucks of the bike world (GS BM's etc) coming at you in daylight with dazzling array of LED lights on.
Doesn't help them and just buggers up depth perception for other traffic.

 

[TeddyG]

I found a Sylvania LED w built in cooling fan and resistor works well w no flicker
$100 bucks for a pair at Auto Zone here in the states

 

[78jotadave]

LED bulbs??
Maybe I missed it but unless there has been a profound change in the way light beams are projected then LED bulbs still require an appropriate specialized reflector (you know that shiny chrome basin behind the bulb) and lense. Look at the LED headlights on modern bikes or automobiles, mostly the lenses are clear and the reflectors look like an architectural exercise in how many reflective angles you can create in a tiny space. Turn signal and instrument lights OK, but headlights doubtful there is greater lighting than a 100w H4.

 

[The Sock]

LED bulbs??
Maybe I missed it but unless there has been a profound change in the way light beams are projected then LED bulbs still require an appropriate specialized reflector (you know that shiny chrome basin behind the bulb) and lense. Look at the LED headlights on modern bikes or automobiles, mostly the lenses are clear and the reflectors look like an architectural exercise in how many reflective angles you can create in a tiny space. Turn signal and instrument lights OK, but headlights doubtful there is greater lighting than a 100w H4.

Here, in the UK, legislation dictates max wattage, for incandescent bulbs, of 55/60 Dipped/Main.
Modern single LED Replacements, like the Auxito H4 which I chose because it doesn't require additional space in the headlamp shell, position the LED at the same place as the incandescent filament was.

 

[Paul Marx]

Here, in the UK, legislation dictates max wattage, for incandescent bulbs, of 55/60 Dipped/Main.
Modern single LED Replacements, like the Auxito H4 which I chose because it doesn't require additional space in the headlamp shell, position the LED at the same place as the incandescent filament was.

View attachment 88496

Same here.
Over 60 watts is illegal and rightly so.
More powerful lights are usually used by arsehole car drivers of the "get out of my way"persuasion.
Paul

 

[Alzero]

Here, in the UK, legislation dictates max wattage, for incandescent bulbs, of 55/60 Dipped/Main.
Modern single LED Replacements, like the Auxito H4 which I chose because it doesn't require additional space in the headlamp shell, position the LED at the same place as the incandescent filament was.

View attachment 88496Unfortunately, the other parts of the assembly interfere with the light pattern compared to the incandescent filament sitting all alone atop the glass holder in the bulb. This changes the light pattern significantly. It is worth noting that when H-D went to an LED headlight they developed an entirely new unit, and did not simply replace the old lamp with an LED. I’m sure there are knockoff replacement light units that are crap, just as there are LED bulbs that are crap. As always it pays to shop around.

 

[Vince]

My 130 / 90 is supposed to be for competition only, rally cars probably. It's aimed correctly and it's very rare I use it around town or ride at night anyway and I never get anyone flashing me going the other way if I do. It cannot be in the same painful class as modern super white bright higher lever 4 wheel drives that are everywhere around here or the imbeciles riding Adventure bikes during the day with high-powered running lights and high beams activated. That is apparently a thing taught by some riding groups in the USA for safety.

Street riding - High or low beams?

I read a tip about riding with high beams on all of the time to increase visibility and I have been doing this ever since. I read a thread where...

www.advrider.com

 

[motoddrob]

I prefer to ride stealth, no daytime riding lights.
I see those adventure riders riding the south coast roads all ablazed with lights all over the front end. Funny thing is they're all on the main roads when there are hundreds of kms of forestry tracks through some of the most amazing bush that'll take you where you want to go.
My GS BM sees more dirt than bitumen.