LED Headlight

The Sock said:
Which of the LEDs did you buy?
H4LED5K or H4LED4K?


I bought the H4LED4K.  I asked about the 5K and Paul Goff advised it would not work in my light - not sure why; there is a note on the page "[font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif] Also cannot be fitted to some Bosch headlights.[/font]" but not clear why not.  Tempting because they don't have the large rearward protrusion into the shell.
 
Paul Marx said:
No risk of melting the wires in the headlight shell?

Paul

UPDATE: I clamped it in a vice, ran the full beam from a battery for 25 minutes and the heatsink was hardly warm.

This has occurred to me - I have only ridden about an hour continuously with it on, and couldn't feel any warmth on the shell at the end of it.  I have a second one and think I might hook that up to a battery and run for a period and see if the heat is notable.
 
Full beam looks impressive on the garage door, but I think the real measure is the dip cutoff.
If the dip is as good as the full beam, I'll buy one tomorrow!
 
Andy said:
Full beam looks impressive on the garage door, but I think the real measure is the dip cutoff.
If the dip is as good as the full beam, I'll buy one tomorrow!


This is the photo I took of the dipped beam on the door. I'm thinking the real proof is riding at night, so that must the final test - perhaps this evening!
 

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The main beam, though brighter, looks more concentrated.
Did you take a dipped beam comparator with the standard bulb on the 1200TS?
Interested to hear how the road test pans out, and on the longevity.
 
The Sock said:
The main beam, though brighter, looks more concentrated.
Did you take a dipped beam comparator with the standard bulb on the 1200TS?
Interested to hear how the road test pans out, and on the longevity.


Here is dipped on the 1200TS
 

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ngiles said:
UPDATE: I clamped it in a vice, ran the full beam from a battery for 25 minutes and the heatsink was hardly warm.

This has occurred to me - I have only ridden about an hour continuously with it on, and couldn't feel any warmth on the shell at the end of it.  I have a second one and think I might hook that up to a battery and run for a period and see if the heat is notable.

Thanks, good to know.

Paul
 
Proof is in the eating as they say - took the bike out this evening and I would say the LED is a big big improvement.  Photos below - first dipped and then full
 

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ngiles said:
Proof is in the eating as they say - took the bike out this evening and I would say the LED is a big big improvement.  Photos below - first dipped and then full

Hi Nick,

Thanks for taking the time to post all this (goodjob).  Is appreciated - by me, at least.

(Yeah, good man Mr Goff.  Can't remember how long I've been buying stuff from him now).
 
(UK folks....)
Plenty of chat on the www about the legality of LED bulbs, and thus MOTs, in circulation at the momement. It seems like the MOT guidance text has been tightened down a bit for 2021.
One example of many...
 
With older bikes that do not have to pass MOT, does anyone have any experience of any issues, for example, with the plod if stopped for other reasons and inspection of the lights etc? I've installed an LED headlight bulb in my '98 Ghost here though had clearance problems in the same shell as used in later triples, splayed the connectors flat on the back of the bulb and used individual connections cut out of a plastic H4 socket. The improvement in light spread is good though not spectacular. I was planning to do the same on my GTL in UK with the same headlight shell but wonder if there may be any spot checks or other enforcements - is there any enforceable penalty other than MOT failure?
 
Whe I was discussing replacement batteries with Wolfgang, I asked about using them in my sfc. He said they work fine for both head and tail light, but I don't recall him mentioning using resistors in the line.
I priced a pair of LED bulbs at our local Canadian Tire and saw ~$120 for a pair of H4 bulbs. Halogen bulbs are roughly half of that price! 😳
 
I've got LED headlights, rear (Motogadget) indicators and brake-tail lights (and now a voltmetering idiot LED). No resistors fitted. look perfectly fine. Std ZXR250 twin headlights, cutoff looks good. May not be approved but I can't see anyone failing an RWC on them. Yes, expensive, but the gains in light spread and possible intensity and penetration plus very long life and miniscule power consumption (plus a tiny lifepo battery) made it a no-brainer for me.
 
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