Missing down changes

cwis said:
Ah ha! That explains the scratches on the inside of my gear change cover when I removed it to put the original clutch actuation lever back on. One washer was on the inside of the spring, one was outside of the case behind the lever!

I know what I'll be doing this evening....

Cheers for the info as always Piet!

Bloody hell the clutch is heavy now. And that's after I spashed on the Venhill featherlight clutch cable too! I best man up a bit, do my hand exercises and stop moaning....
Click to expand...


Chris,  

You'll need one washer on the outside to keep the o-ring in place!

piet


 
I had a long think about this and am going to file a bit more off the upper pawl end,it makes seance that the upper pawl needs to engage with the pin,even a tiny bit up and it sails right past missing the gear.
I have no problems with up changes and getting 5th so I don't want to disturb the cam,sleeping dogs,even gearbox dogs.
 
G'day Vince

I reckon I'd rather be fiddling around with the spring locating cam before filing the selector hook. It should achieve the same thing, is much easier to do and is easily reversible if you go too far.

Cheers,
Cam
 
Cam,

The eccentric adjuster bolt sometimes just doesn't provide the required range of movement.  Usually only a few 0.1mm needed to be removed to make things working smoothly.

With bikes now being built from boxes of bits, you just can't be sure you're not looking at completely mismatched parts.  Bet Luigi had a small file at hand when setting up the gear change at the factory... :D

Also quite reversable, a blob of weld and 5 minutes with said file.

piet
 
Been down the cam adjustment road and back CAM in the past,the major problem with all of this is how agricultural your mechanism is,my bike is a wire wheel 3C and I bet as the factory moved on there tolerances improved and the bits got better,add in 35 years of wear and tear plus with it assembled you cannot see whats not lining up.I was going to set it in 3rd and go down to 2nd and pull the cover and eyeball it but just pulling the cover off allows the spring to move sideways and not be where it rests to see.Before the spring broke I had a great change action and all 5 gears,just the addition of a differant spring,maybe slightly scuyy to one side has an effect
 
Well the cam is maxed out on full and I have filed the pawl and I still don't get 1st gear,well to be clear I get it going from neutral and from 2nd but if I go higher than 3rd and then come down the box then it will not select 1st without a slight up movement.How thick is the washer after the spring,mine is very thin.Has anyone had a leg of the spring drift into the gap in the plate and block full travel,I am thinking maybe there is to much play with the potential for the spring leg to do this.Wasn't that long a ago when I had all 5 gears so its there somewhere
 
Try adjusting the cam the other way. Sounds like the pawl isn't rotating the drum enough on the down-changes so it's not locking into the detent roller. When the pawl comes back up to pick up first gear it can't reach it.
 
Cracked it,my 10 year old 6 inch warn out 2nd cut file was doing a good job shining up the pawl but not so much at removing actual steel,actually case hardened steel it feels like,10 seconds rubbing with my 125mm angle grinder and I now have 1st gear.Beauty.I held the grinder flat on the bench and worked the pawl on the edge of a thin cutting wheel,I am a happy boy
 
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